Cocktails by The Editors of Food & Wine [read pdf online free]


  • Full Title : Cocktails: More Than 150 Drinks +Appetizers and Party Menus
  • Autor: The Editors of Food & Wine
  • Print Length: 272 pages
  • Publisher: Oxmoor House
  • Publication Date: November 27, 2018
  • Language: English
  • ISBN-10: 0848756134
  • ISBN-13: 978-0848756130
  • Download File Format: epub

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COCKTAILS features more than 150 of our best recipes—from classic drinks to contemporary craft cocktails—all from America’s most innovative bartenders. A must-have collection for the home bartender, the book includes essential tips, tools, and  techniques, plus 24 menu ideas for drinks and bites. Join the editors of FOOD & WINE as they showcase the art of mixing a proper cocktail and offering hospitality with the finest in food and drink. Cheers!

 

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ox from Norwich Meadows Farm in central New York are just the things I want to cook that week. At my parents’ house in Ohio, I’m hungry for fresh asparagus from the farm next door. If I were on Michigan’s Upper Peninsula, I’d be going crazy for cherries; and in Charleston, I’d be sure to get my hands on Carolina Gold rice. I am far more interested in telling a local story than in importing ingredients from anywhere. For me it’s a living truth, overwhelmingly exciting. You might get to the point where you grow all your own food, or you may just want to cook a simple dinner for friends. However you get there from here, it’s amazing. Celebrate that.

A MEAL IN A BOWL

I OFTEN THINK THAT if we reimagined the all-American meal in a bowl instead of on a plate, we’d create meals differently than we do now. A bowl demands another way of eating. You can’t cut a big steak in a bowl. Instead, a bowl of rice or grains can become the stage for so many delicious vegetables: stews of beans, piles of greens, roasted roots, sparked by zingy pickles and relishes. How satisfying! For the way I like to eat, vegetables often work better in bowls. Many recipes in this book provide imaginative ideas for eating that way.

TEAM VEGGIE

OUR UNIQUE PROCESS of producing V is for Vegetables meant that our little editorial team of producer, photographer, recipe editor, and sous chef shopped for, cooked, tasted, tested, photographed, wrote, and critiqued each recipe—all in real time. I cooked every dish in a home kitchen, not in a photography studio. And although I had to put up with no small amount of back talk from the peanut gallery, it gave our process a bit of a reality check: If one of us found a component of a recipe too fussy, or an ingredient unrealistic for the home cook, I really listened, and that made our working together fun. Our photo shoots became a happy, real-world laboratory where we used the very process of producing recipes to test new ideas as we tasted our way through the book. Sometimes I reinterpreted tried-and-true classics; other times I invented exciting ways to discover and enjoy each vegetable.

A RECIPE IS A SKETCH, NOT A BLUEPRINT

IF A RECIPE CALLS FOR something green, find something green. If you have no kale for that Kale Soup with Potatoes & Leeks (here), use zucchini, or collards, or Swiss chard. You want to make a salad? Use mustard or young radish tops; almost any combination of leafy greens will work. Turnip & Squash Stew with Chicken (here) will be great with any root vegetable. This is the time to discover wonderful artisanal ingredients like oil-cured anchovies (here); a pristine, sustainable seafood like squid; pickled ginger (here); or yellow lentils (here), which can completely change a dish. Sweet potatoes with red cabbage? Imagine! Use your intuition. Experiments can lead to happy solutions. As cooks we are part foragers and part magicians. But this book doesn’t celebrate those rare varieties that only grow deep in the forest or on the top of some mountain, hard to find, impossible to get your hands on. Garden variety is thrilling to me.

One of the challenges in writing this book was to find a way into the home cook’s imagination; to express the sincere appreciation that comes from tasting complex flavors, being seduced by color and texture, falling in love with vegetables. Because in our lifetimes, many of us have rarely known the vegetable as a star; it can be difficult to imagine menus where that is the case. I may improvise a recipe, but I’m not just making it up out of the blue. My recipes are not tricky or unapproachable; I’ve developed them to share, not to show off. I lean on my love of the vegetable first, then on my culinary foundation. And always, it is about the best way to make that thing taste good. Sometimes I follow rules; sometimes I break them. Knowing when to do which is what makes a cook. I’m hoping to pass that knowledge along to you.

“The artichoke above all is the vegetable expression of civilized living.”

—JANE GRIGSON, Jane Grigson’s Vegetable Book, 1978

Artichokes

Asparagus

Avocado

ARTICHOKES

ARTICHOKES, FOR ME, were always elusive. Kind of dangerous. Really beautiful. But I didn’t understand what people loved about eating a prickly thistle; I never got their seductive quality. Even though as a chef I had dutifully learned how to “turn” artichokes, it took spending an Easter with my daughters in Rome (where artichokes are prized and prepared with great style) to truly become enamored of this vegetable. Artichokes—fried whole (alla giudia), braised with fava beans in spring vignarola, sliced raw with anchovies and lots of lemon, and baked on pizza—were a real discovery for me as an eater. As I travelled to other places where artichokes are grown and appreciated, I began to experience the nostalgia around the tradition of eating them, and I really fell in love. I felt inspired to dream about these delicious ways of preparing them.

Prepping Globe Artichokes

This book is full of inspiration, of course, but I also want to make sure to share with you the techniques you need to unlock these delicious vegetables. Each artichoke recipe asks for a different approach—not difficult, different! To stuff a big globe artichoke, there’s some trimming to do, plus removing the choke. Getting to the prized artichoke hearts take some serious cutting.

Stuffing Artichokes

Once the artichokes are trimmed and hollowed out with a spoon, use a paring knife to flatten the bottoms so they’ll sit upright in a deep baking dish. Season the hollowed-out artichokes with salt, pepper, butter, olive oil, and lemon juice. Combine the stuffing ingredients—clockwise from top, coppa or pancetta, bread crumbs, oregano, garlic, capers, anchovies, black and green olives—in a small bowl and mix well. Spoon the stuffing into each prepared artichoke, filling generously.

WHOLE STUFFED BAKED ARTICHOKES

SERVES 4

THIS IS MY INTERPRETATION of an iconic Italian-American classic. All the great flavors of that irresistible culture are baked into the hollowed-out vegetable itself. Olives, anchovies, capers, coppa, oregano—the stuffing shares its bold, nostalgic flavors with the soft artichoke heart as it bakes. As you pull apart the leaves, the aromatic seasonings penetrate the entire artichoke. I like to spoon Lemon Vinaigrette over the artichokes.

½ cup diced coppa or pancetta

¼ cup chopped pitted green olives

¼ cup chopped pitted black olives

2 anchovy fillets, chopped

1 clove garlic, minced

2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

1 tablespoon chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

1 tablespoon capers, chopped

1 teaspoon dried oregano

½ teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes

3 tablespoons bread crumbs

2 tablespoons butter

4 tablespoons olive oil

Salt and pepper

4 large artichokes, trimmed, chokes removed (here), and submerged in lemon water

½ cup dry white wine

Preheat the oven to 375°F. Combine the coppa or pancetta, green and black olives, anchovies, garlic, lemon juice, parsley, capers, oregano, red pepper flakes, 1 tablespoon of the bread crumbs, butter, 2 tablespoons of the oil, salt, and pepper in a large bowl.

Gently pack about one-quarter of the mixture into the cavity of each artichoke. Put the stuffed artichokes in a baking dish. Sprinkle with the remaining 2 tablespoons bread crumbs, followed by the remaining 2 tablespoons oil. Pour the wine into the baking dish, cover with aluminum foil, and bake until the artichokes are tender, about 45 minutes. Remove the foil and bake until the bread crumbs are deep brown, about 10 minutes more.

LEMON VINAIGRETTE

MAKES ABOUT ¾ CUP

IN A SMALL BOWL, mix 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard with 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice and a dash of salt and pepper. Slowly whisk in ½ cup olive oil. Serve on the side for dipping.

Prepping Artichoke Hearts

To “turn” an artichoke means to hold it upside down in one hand and trim away the green outer leaves with a sharp knife. Sculpt the bottoms into a rounded shape, keeping as much of the delicious hearts as you can. Dip the hearts in lemon water so they don’t turn brown. Use a spoon to scrape out the chokes. Submerge the artichokes in water in a large saucepan to cook evenly. Parchment paper cut into a circle can help this.

ARTICHOKE HEARTS WITH CRAB & TOMATO SAUCE

SERVES 6

IF YOU’RE GOING TO MAKE A DIP, I say make one that’s over the top! This combination brings together some of the richest, most decadent American flavors. I leave the artichokes in chunks so you can really savor their texture with the crab.

6 artichoke hearts, trimmed, chokes removed, and submerged in lemon water

1 tablespoon olive oil

2 tablespoons butter

1 clove garlic, smashed

Salt and pepper

¼ cup Garlic Puree (here)

1½ cups My Tomato Sauce (here) or other good tomato sauce

½ pound lump crabmeat, picked over

Tabasco sauce

Fresh lemon juice

½ tablespoon minced fresh chives

Toasted pita or sliced baguette

Put the artichoke hearts in a medium saucepan, cover with water by about 2 inches, and simmer, with parchment paper on top or cover with a lid, until just tender, 20 to 25 minutes. Drain the artichokes, let cool slightly, pat dry, and quarter. Heat the oil and 1 tablespoon of the butter in a medium saucepan over medium-high heat. Sweat the artichoke quarters with the garlic, salt, and pepper for about 4 minutes.

Add the garlic puree, tomato sauce, and remaining tablespoon butter, stir to combine, then bring to a simmer. Stir in the crabmeat and turn off the heat. Add a few dashes of Tabasco, a squeeze of lemon juice, salt, and pepper. Transfer to a serving dish, sprinkle with the chives, and serve with toasted pita or baguette.

Prepping Baby Artichokes

Trimming baby artichokes is similar to the technique shown here. I leave the stems intact, peel them, and since there are no chokes, I just pull off the hard outer leaves; don’t be surprised at how many of them you must discard. Keep the trimmed hearts in lemon water until ready to use.

BRAISED BABY ARTICHOKES WITH OYSTER MUSHROOMS

SERVES 4

A SLOW BRAISE RENDERS baby artichokes soft, tender, and succulent. Cooking them in white wine and vinegar preserves their bright color and adds mouthwatering acidity. Cooking the mushrooms in the same pan with the other vegetables creates a flavor that is so much greater than the sum of the parts. This dish can be enjoyed warm or at room temperature.

5 tablespoons olive oil

¾ pound oyster mushrooms, separated into petals

Salt and pepper

12 baby artichokes, trimmed, halved lengthwise, and submerged in lemon water

8 cipollini onions

8 small carrots

2 teaspoons coriander seeds

1 bay leaf

2 cups dry white wine

¼ cup white wine vinegar

Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil in a large skillet over high heat. Brown the mushrooms with salt and pepper, about 5 minutes. Transfer to a bowl.

Heat the remaining 3 tablespoons oil in the same skillet over medium-high heat. Add the artichokes flat-side down, onions, carrots, salt, and pepper and cook until the artichokes are lightly browned, about 6 minutes. Add the coriander seeds, bay leaf, wine, and vinegar, bring to a simmer, and reduce for about 2 minutes. Add about 1 cup water to almost cover the vegetables. Simmer until the vegetables are just tender, about 12 minutes. Return the cooked mushrooms to the skillet and heat through.

ASPARAGUS

HARVESTING ASPARAGUS feels to me more like the act of foraging, discovering an edible plant in the wild, than gardening. After all, asparagus are the springtime shoots of plants that live underground for years and years, and in some places grow completely wild. Each spring, the plant throws off tender green shoots in an attempt at propagation. When we show up at just the right time, it’s so easy to snip them off in a celebration of that magic moment when spring arrives at last. Asparagus have become such a ubiquitous commercial commodity—uniform spears trapped as they inevitably are in a wide rubber band, more often than not imported.

It’s a totally different experience to crouch down in an asparagus field looking for the earliest green stems that poke through the refuse of last year’s crop, just waiting to send their tender shoots to reach up toward the sun. Older plants produce thicker stems, but they are not necessarily better. No matter where you get your asparagus, always look for spears that are still moist, with no sign of drying where the stalks are cut.

ASPARAGUS WITH PRESERVED GINGER RELISH

SERVES 4

I FIRST SERVED A SIMILAR tomato condiment at an impromptu lunch at my parents’ house to highlight the room-temperature asparagus we’d just cut from the neighbor’s field. Ginger, tomato, and sesame have a great relationship together and happen to love asparagus. This condiment is so tasty and versatile that you can use it on grilled vegetables, fish, or meat. It will keep, refrigerated, for about 3 days.

1 tablespoon sesame oil

¼ cup sliced spring onions or scallions

1 clove garlic, minced

1 tablespoon chopped Pickled Ginger (here), plus 1 tablespoon pickling liquid

Pinch crushed red pepper flakes

5 tomatoes, roughly chopped

½ tablespoon sugar

Salt and pepper

½ tablespoon soy sauce

1 teaspoon sesame seeds

1 pound asparagus spears, blanched (here)

2 tablespoons thinly sliced scallion greens or chopped fresh herbs

Heat the oil in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Add the spring onions or scallions, garlic, pickled ginger, and red pepper flakes and cook until the garlic turns golden, about 2 minutes. Add the tomatoes, sugar, salt, and pepper and simmer, stirring often, until the tomatoes start to break down, about 6 minutes.

Stir in the pickling liquid, soy sauce, and sesame seeds. Let the mixture cool to room temperature, then spoon over the asparagus and top with the scallions or chopped herbs.

PAN-ROASTED ASPARAGUS WITH SUNNY-SIDE-UP EGGS

SERVES 4

THIS DISH REVELS in the simplicity of only three ingredients: just-cut asparagus, the freshest country egg, and a few young spinach leaves. Sautéing the asparagus spears in a pan—not boiling them—concentrates their flavor and adds a little browning, too.

3 tablespoons olive oil

16 asparagus spears

1 clove garlic, smashed

Salt and pepper

1 cup packed spinach (stems removed)

Zest from ¼ lemon

4 eggs

Parmigiano for shaving

Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the asparagus, garlic, salt, and pepper and cook, turning the asparagus occasionally, until it’s lightly browned and tender, about 4 minutes. Add the spinach and lemon zest and wilt, about a minute more. Remove the vegetables from the pan and set aside.

Heat the remaining tablespoon oil in the skillet over medium heat. Crack the eggs into the skillet, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and cook until the whites are set but the yolks are still runny, about 4 minutes. Slide the eggs onto 4 plates and top with the asparagus and spinach. Shave the cheese over the top.

SALAD OF SHAVED ASPARAGUS & BELUGA LENTILS

SERVES 4

I USE THE MANDOLINE as a tool to transform so many vegetables—even long, thin asparagus spears—into crunchy salad. Slicing vegetables thinly makes them accessible and, in the process, increases their surface for seasonings. Holding the slices in ice water helps keep them crisp, and the long asparagus shavings curl beautifully in the cold water.

I love lentils of every kind, eating them in every way you might imagine: firm and cold with an acidic vinaigrette, as in this recipe, or warm and creamy in soups and stews, such as Braised Leeks & Yellow Lentils with Anchovy Dressing (here). Or cooked to a satisfying mush, mixed with crispy fried shallots and garam masala—my favorite sandwich. Beluga lentils, with their wonderful inky color, are named for the caviar they resemble. Any kind of lentil will work here.

3 tablespoons olive oil

16 asparagus spears, 8 shaved lengthwise and held in ice water, 8 halved

1 clove garlic, smashed

Salt and pepper

1⅓ cups cooked beluga lentils

2 large handfuls salad greens

Juice from ¼ lemon

Heat 1 tablespoon of the oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the 8 halved asparagus pieces, garlic, salt, and pepper and cook, turning the asparagus occasionally, until lightly browned and tender, about 4 minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside.

Toss the lentils in a small bowl with 1 tablespoon of the oil, salt, and pepper, then spoon onto 4 plates and top with the cooked asparagus. Drain the shaved asparagus and toss with the greens in a bowl with the remaining tablespoon oil, lemon juice, salt, and pepper, then scatter on the cooked asparagus. (Or just toss all the ingredients together in a big bowl.)

Blanching

I promise not to use sometimes confusing professional culinary jargon in this book, but blanching is one method that is fundamental to cooking vegetables. When I call for blanching, I mean briefly cooking a vegetable in salted boiling water, and then shocking it quickly in a bowl of very cold water with ice cubes. Blanching preserves bright color and fresh flavor, both of which cooked vegetables need.

AVOCADO

LOOK, I KNOW that avocado is really a fruit, and so do you. But let’s not get distracted by that distinction. Because the rich flesh of an avocado isn’t naturally sweet, I treat it as I would a vegetable: as the building block of so many great dishes, or simply sliced over a bowl of grains.

AVOCADO YOGURT WITH LIME MASH

MAKES ABOUT 2 CUPS

HERE IS A SLIGHTLY DIFFERENT way to look at avocados, amplifying their smoothness with yogurt and their nuttiness with toasted pumpkin seeds, and adding bright contrast with spicy red pepper flakes. It’s as luscious as a spoonful of caviar! This combination is a favorite at my local midtown Manhattan café, Little Collins. I make the toasts small enough that two bites is enough to delight and keep your attention.

1 baguette, sliced

Olive oil

1 clove garlic, halved

2 avocados, pitted and peeled

⅓ cup Greek-style yogurt

¼ cup fresh lime juice

Salt

Large handful toasted pumpkin seeds

Crushed red pepper flakes

2 tablespoons thinly sliced fresh chives

Pumpkin seed oil or olive oil

Sea salt

Toast both sides of the baguette slices and rub with olive oil and the garlic. Process the avocados, yogurt, and lime juice in a blender until just smooth (a little texture is good) and add salt. Heap a spoonful of the mixture onto each toast, and top with pumpkin seeds, red pepper flakes, chives, pumpkin seed oil or olive oil, and sea salt.

Cutting an Avocado

Ripe avocados can get messy, but here’s a trick to opening them that’s clean and fast: Squeeze gently to assure that the avocado has just a little give (that’s how you know it’s ripe). Cut around the circumference until you feel the pit with your knife. Using both hands, one on top and one on the bottom, twist and open the avocado. Holding the side with the pit up, and your chef’s knife in the other hand, tap gently on the pit with the blade, then twist and remove the pit. Use a large spoon to scoop out the meat. Done.

AVOCADO & BLOOD ORANGE SALAD WITH QUINOA

SERVES 4

THIS LUSH SALAD is a wintertime favorite. The sweet tartness of blood oranges acts like tomatoes would in combination with the rich avocado. Quinoa holds the flavorful vinaigrette well, making this salad so satisfying to eat.

½ cup quinoa

Salt

3

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