Cooking with Soup by Campbell Cookbook, pdf, B000CKNJ92


  • Full Title : Cooking with Soup : A Campbell Cookbook
  • Autor: Campbell Cookbook
  • Print Length: 200 pages
  • Publisher: Campbells Soup Co; 2nd edition
  • Publication Date: 
  • Language: English
  • ISBN-10: B000CKNJ92
  • ISBN-13: 
  • Download File Format: pdf

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608 skillet dishes, casseroles, stews, sauces, gravies, dips, soup mates, and garnishes.

 

608 skillet dishes, casseroles, stews, sauces, gravies, dips, soup mates, and garnishes.

>>>Download<<<

Keywords

stir fry recipe, barbaque, chardonnay, amazing wedding cakes, cabbage soup recipe,
pancake recipe, cake pops, how to make pizza, weight loss secrets, indian butter, s still have been developed specially for the book by me and James Thompson over the last couple of years. Working in my kitchen at home, we have tested every recipe at least twice and cooked them for photography. They are not all thirty-minute wonders. A few are special-occasion dinners for when you have friends round, and some require minimal preparation but take a full hour or more of unattended cooking in the oven, but the bulk are neat little dinners you can have on the table in half an hour or so and probably even quicker when you have made them once or twice.

We are not chasing perfection here. This is simply a collection of suggestions for something you might like to make for dinner. Just straightforward, delicious cooking. For the times we just want to eat.

Nigel Slater

London, September 2013

www.nigelslater.com

@nigelslater

Contents

Cover

About the Author

Also by Nigel Slater

Title Page

Dedication

Acknowledgements

Introduction

A quick guide to what to eat by main ingredient

A note on the type

In the hand

In a bowl

In the frying pan

On the grill

On the hob

Little stews

In the oven

Under a crust

In a wok

On a plate

Puddings

List of Searchable Items

Copyright

About the Publisher

A quick guide to what to eat by main ingredient

Fish

cod

Cod with Lemon, Tarragon and Crème Fraîche

crab

Crab Balls

Crab, Melon and Basil Salad

haddock

Smoked Haddock and Leek Cakes

Smoked Haddock with Lentils

Spiced Haddock Chowder

kippers

Grilled Kippers, Beetroot and Horseradish Mash

Kipper Benedict

mackerel

Mackerel with Bulgur and Tomato

Smoked Mackerel and Green Beans

Smoked Mackerel with Peas and Edamame

mussels

Mussels with Clams and Chorizo

prawns

Basil Prawns

Chilli Prawns with Watermelon

Prawns, Lemongrass and Coconut

Vietnamese Prawn Baguettes

salmon

Salmon and Cucumber Pie

Salmon with Artichokes

Salmon with Roast Garlic and Cream

Soba Noodles, Salmon and Prawns

sardines

Sardines, Potatoes and Pine Kernels

squid

Couscous, Lemons, Almonds, Squid

Squid Stuffed with Judión Beans and Tomato

Meat

beef

A Beef Sandwich

Bresaola, Emmental and Pickled Cucumber Sandwich

Philly Cheese Steak with Tagliatelle

Slow-cooked Beef Pie with Celeriac Rösti Crust

Steak with Miso

Tomatoes, Charred Onions and Steak

chicken

Chicken, Asparagus and Avocado Sandwich

Chicken Breast with Smoked Cheese and Pancetta

Chicken Breasts with Taleggio

Chicken Skin Popcorn

Chicken Wings, Katsu Sauce

Chicken Wings with Onion Umeboshi Chutney

Chicken with Soured Cream and Gherkins

Citrus Chilli Grilled Chicken

Marmalade Chicken

One-pan Sunday Lunch

Paprika, Mustard Chicken Goujons

Chicken, Sherry, Almonds Pot Roast

Quick Chicken Pot Pie

Ras el Hanout Chicken and Spelt

Satay Drumsticks

Spatchcock Chicken, Rocket, Couscous

duck

Duck Burgers

Duck with Beans

lamb

Grilled Lamb with Minted Feta

Lamb Cutlets with Mustard Seed

Lamb Shanks with Crushed Roots

Lamb with Yoghurt and Turmeric

Roast Lamb, Mustard and Crumbs

Slow-roast Belly of Lamb

Spiced Sesame Lamb with Cucumber and Yoghurt

pork

Ham Hock, Herb Sauce

Pig and Fig

Pork and Mango Kebabs

Pork Belly, Pistachios and Figs

Pork Chop with Plum Chutney

Pork with Blood Orange

Quick Pork Ribs with Honey and Pomegranate Molasses

Rib and Rhubarb Broth

rabbit

Slow-cooked Rabbit with Herbs

bacon and pancetta

Bacon and Beans

Bacon Boulangère

sausages and chorizo

Breakfast Burger

Chorizo and Sweet Potato Mash

Chorizo and Potatoes

Chorizo Burgers

Sausage Balls, Mustard Cream Sauce

Sausage Danish

Sausage Lasagne

Sausages, Mash and Tomato Gravy

Vegetables

Roots

Root Vegetable Patties with Spiced Tomato Sauce

Root Vegetable Tangle

Spiced Root Frittata

beetroot

Beetroot and Fennel Slaw with Speck

Beetroot with Sausage and Rosemary

Roasted Beetroot and Tomato Spelt

carrots

Carrot, Black Beans and Coriander

Carrot and Bulgur Porridge

Harissa Carrots

Prawns, Noodles and Spring Carrots

jerusalem artichoke

Artichoke and Chicken Soup

parsnips

Parsnip Rösti

potatoes

Beef Dripping Potato Salad

Cauliflower-cheese Baked Potato

Poor Man’s Potatoes

Potato Wedges with Gorgonzola Sauce

Potatoes with Hazelnuts and Egg

Potatoes with Spices and Spinach

turnips

Young Turnips with Mushrooms and Orzo

Greens

A Quick(ish) Green Minestrone

Green Vegetable Soup

Roast Chicken Pho

asparagus

Asparagus Cannelloni

Chicken, Asparagus and Noodle Broth

Lamb with Asparagus

broccoli

Potatoes, Speck and Sprouting

Stir-fried Chicken with Cashews and Broccoli

cabbage

Stewed Red Cabbage with Blue Cheese and Apple

kale

Gratin of Kale and Almonds

Ham and Kale Colcannon

leeks

Baked Red Mullet with Fennel and Leeks

Chicken with Fennel and Leek

Beans

broad beans

Gammon Steaks, Broad Beans and Mustard Seeds

Orecchiette with Ricotta and Broad Beans

peas

Pea and Watercress Soup

Peas and Ham

And all the rest

aubergines

Aubergine and Chickpeas

Aubergine Curry

Aubergine Paneer

Roasted Vegetable Rice

Split Peas with Aubergine

courgettes

Courgettes with Bacon Gremolata

Marrow Gratin

cucumbers

Aromatic Pork with Cucumber

Cucumber, Fennel and Ricotta Salad

Summer Herb Rolls

Tuna and Cucumber Salad

mushrooms

Onion and Mushroom Toad in the Hole

Spiced Mushrooms on Naan

sweetcorn

Sweetcorn, Bacon and Parsley Salad

Sweetcorn Crumb-crust Pie

tomatoes

Basil Tomato Pasta

Cherries, Tomatoes and Salami

Summer Vegetables with Harissa and Couscous

Tomato Caesar Bruschetta

Tomato Focaccia

Tomatoes, Cucumber and Anchovy

Tomatoes with an Anchovy Crumb Crust

Fruit

apples

Apple, Ginger and Endive

bananas

Banana Cheesecake

figs

Fig and Goat’s Cheese Focaccia

Figs, Bulgur and Blackberries

Fig and Ricotta Toasts

mango

Mango and Passion Fruit Mess

strawberries

Strawberry and Cucumber Salad

Strawberry Mascarpone Brioche Toasts

raspberries

Chocolate Oat Crumble

Pasta, beans and grains

beans and pulses

Black Bean and Onion Stew

Herb Burgers

Artichokes and Cannellini

Baked Chickpea Cakes

Sea Bass with Tarragon Flageolets

Lentil Bolognaise

pasta

Anchovy, Penne, Crumbs

Brown Shrimps, Linguine, Dill

A Light Chicken Ragù

Smoked Salmon and Green Peppercorn Macaroni

Spaghetti Bake

rice

Quick Spiced Rice

Rice Cakes

Risotto

Eggs and cheese

eggs

Spiced Eggs with Squash

Spiced Scrambled Eggs

Goat’s Cheese Frittata

James’s Potato Tortilla

mascarpone

The Bagel

Irish Coffee Trifle

Oat and Lemon Cookies

mozzarella

Mozzarella Chorizo Sandwich

Pancetta-crumbed Mozzarella Salad

ricotta

Herb Ricotta Cakes

Ricotta Burgers

Spelt, Basil and Ricotta Cakes

Left overs

A Beef Sandwich

The Sunday Roast Pork Sandwich

Quiet, old-fashioned flavours for leftover ham hock

The comfort of carbs

The pork rib sandwich

Rice Cakes

Ham and Kale Colcannon

A creamy chicken lasagne, leftover chicken meat with onions

Turkey or Chicken Couscous

Beef Dripping Potato Salad

There is an intimacy involved in eating food whilst holding it in your hands. An intimacy you cannot get from the cold steel of a knife and fork or even a pair of wooden chopsticks. The tactile quality of food in the hands is something we get from a sandwich or a wrap (a floury bap; the charcoal dust left on our fingers from a torn piece of warm roti; the cool moistness of a rice wrapper), yet it is a way of life for some cultures, who long ago embraced the art of hand-to-mouth eating.

It is convenient to contain most hand-held food in an edible wrapper – a dough of some sort. It protects our hands from the hot, messy food. A slice cut from a sourdough loaf, a baguette with a shattered crust, a flour-dusted bun, a puckered wrap, an ice-cream cornet, a doughy roti, rye crispbread or thin, skin-like rice wrapper all serve the same purpose. We get to enjoy not only the filling but its wrapper as well. A wrapper that in some cases is warm to the touch and has partially soaked up the moisture from the filling.

The sandwich can be anything from a diminutive, accurately cut cucumber triangle to a doorstop bacon butty the size of an outstretched palm. Matching the bread to the filling can be state-of-the-art or pot-luck, depending on the day. Carefully considered or bunged together, a homemade sandwich rarely fails to hit the spot. Rough pork rillettes on sourdough, goat’s cheese on walnut bread, and bacon on white sliced are amongst my desert-island sandwiches, and yes, I do plan for them when I’m shopping. But most are constructed in a somewhat more laissez-faire manner, which is why I have eaten salt beef on sourdough and Caerphilly cheese on a flat English muffin. (Both good, by the way.)

My rule of thumb is the softer the filling, the more suited it is to a crisp wrapping and vice versa. Which is why silkily wrapped rice paper rolls work so well with their crunchy cucumber and carrot filling and why smoked salmon and soft cream cheese are ideal for chewy bagels. It may also explain the heaven that is ripe Brie with a crackling baguette.

A sandwich needs some form of lubricant. This can be as off the cuff as a trickle of olive oil or as lavish as herb-flecked mayonnaise. It can bring heat (mustard, horseradish or wasabi) or be something more bland altogether, such as fromage frais. Yes, the lubricant – butter, hummus, creamed avocado, goat’s cheese, mayonnaise, Patum Peperium, jam, honey, peanut butter – needs to work with the filling but there is plenty of room to experiment. Wasabi and smoked salmon works for me, as does mayonnaise with crisp smoked bacon. Whatever works. We probably shouldn’t get too precious about a sandwich, but that needn’t mean we can be flippant about it either.

I must mention the burger. From the Big Mac to the now-ubiquitous gourmet burger, the idea of a meat patty held in some sort of bun has long had our attention. The patty is usually pork or beef, but I make them from lamb too, often with cumin and mint, and from sausage meat, mashed beans and shredded vegetables flavoured with mustard seed. The meat can be pure and lightly seasoned or tarted up with an entire spice box. Both have their moments.

In its purest form, a sandwich is something you often make for yourself rather than for someone else. The bread and its filling are ours and ours alone, and we can do as we please. There are no rules. Bread that is less than perfectly fresh can be toasted; fillings can be classic (Cheddar and coarse chutney; roast beef and horseradish) to adventurous (salmon, wasabi and grilled bacon; goat’s cheese, peach and black pepper) to downright bizarre. It can be browned in a sandwich toaster or in a film of butter in a shallow pan. Eaten hot, when the melted cheese forms burning strings, or chilled, with ice-cold radishes, cucumber and iceberg lettuce as crisp as broken glass.

The open sandwich has much to commend it. The filling is allowed to tempt the eye more than when it is held captive between two pieces of bread, and it can be more generous too. But a knife and fork are generally involved, taking away that all-important, though far from essential, tactility. An open sandwich – buttery yellow lettuce, smoked trout, dill mayonnaise and cucumber on rye – was one of the first recipes I tweeted. It remains a favourite summer lunch.

I still stand by many of the sandwiches in my first book, Real Fast Food (Michael Joseph, 1992): thinly sliced cold roast pork with sea salt, smashed crackling and mayonnaise; bread spread with anchovy paste and Camembert, toasted till the cheese runs; the bacon sarnie made with ‘plastic’ white sliced bread; even the pitta bread stuffed with fried leftover potatoes, garam masala and basil vinaigrette, despite the leap of faith you need to take to make it.

We all have our favourites. The homemade sandwich is a friend who rarely lets us down. Hand-held food rights our wrongs, turning a bad world briefly good. Here are a few of my favourites, from the simplest to the most extravagant, that continue, year in, year out, to save my soul.

Roast courgette and feta

Slice small courgettes lengthways – longer ones may be better cut into rounds – then put them in a small roasting tin. Toss with olive oil, salt, pepper and a little crushed garlic. Roast till soft and sweet. Crumble over a little feta, then pile into crisp rolls or serve as a warm open sandwich.

Roast vegetables, garlic mayo. The warm, sweet breeze of basil

Slice aubergines, tomatoes and courgettes, toss them in plenty of olive oil, then season with lots of garlic, black pepper, salt and finely chopped rosemary. Roast till everything is very soft. Chop a handful of basil leaves, stir them into mayonnaise and beat in some of the garlicky juices from the roasting tin. Stop before it curdles. Slather the basil mayo over crusty bread, then pile on the vegetables.

The comfort of carbs

Slice leftover new potatoes into thick coins. Fry them in butter and a little oil till they are lightly crisp and golden. Spread mayonnaise thickly on to your bread and pile the hot potatoes on to it. (I like to add chopped dill to this one.)

The Italian

Paper-fine air-dried ham and soft, flour-dusted, airy bread such as ciabatta. I have been known to tuck in a basil leaf or two. You can brush the cut bread with olive oil but the holes prevent the inclusion of any sort of spread.

Breakfast Burger

sausages, smoked bacon, bagels, tomatoes, cheese

Slit the skin of 3 herby butcher’s sausages, remove the meat and put it into a mixing bowl. Chop 75g smoked streaky bacon, mix it with the sausage, check the seasoning, then roll into two plump patties.

Using a non-stick pan covered with a lid, cook the burgers in a little oil, over a low to moderate heat. Turn each burger several times during cooking, until they have developed a sticky, almost Marmite-like exterior.

Split and toast a couple of bagels, place a couple of slices of large, ripe tomato and the burgers on the bottom halves, add a few slices of interesting cheese and briefly place under a hot grill till the cheese has melted. Top with the other half of the bagels.

For 2. Soft bun. Herby sausage. Smoked bacon. Melting cheese. Happy weekend.

Steak sandwich

A thin, flash-fried steak. Crisp baguette. Mustard. Mayonnaise. The trick is to slice the bread and press the cut side down into the steak pan, wiping up all the juices with the bread, before adding the mustard, slathering with mayonnaise and tucking the steak in. It’s the pan juices that make it.

Buttery leeks and chicken burger

Buy minced chicken, or better still mince your own, so you can include the skin. Slice a spring onion and fry in oil and butter, then add chopped sage, a little garlic and leeks, finely shredded. Let them soften, slowly, under a lid, till they are bright green, satin-soft and buttery. Add the minced chicken and cook briefly, before making into patties and frying in a non-stick pan until golden and sticky. Slather short lengths of crisp baguette with mayonnaise, then use to sandwich the burgers.

Duck Burgers

duck breasts, spring onions, plum, honey, soy sauce, breadcrumbs, lettuce, cucumber, chilli

Put 2 duck breasts (about 200g total weight) into a food processor, add a large spring onion, a stoned fresh plum, a tablespoon of honey and a tablespoon of dark soy sauce. Blitz to a coarse mince then add 75g fresh white breadcrumbs.

Form the paste into 4 burgers. Roll each in a few more breadcrumbs, then fry over a low heat for 10 minutes each side.

Place each burger on a large, crisp lettuce leaf, add shredded cucumber, chopped spring onion and a small, shredded chilli and wrap the burgers in the lettuce.

For 3–4. Sweet, fruity and crisp.

Chicken burger with lemon and tarragon

I can’t get enough of these; they’re one of my favourite recipes in the book.

Put 400g chicken breasts, with their skin, in a food processor. Add a good handful of tarragon leaves, the
recipes by ingredients app, texas education agency, paleo chili, chocolate molds, biscuit gravy, nesia: Poulet Fafa (Chicken in taro leaves)

98

Eric César Morales

Gabon: Nyembwe (Chicken with nuts)

101

Karin Vaneker

Gambia: Black Pepper Fish Sauce; Peanut Butter Soup

with

Chicken

102

Mariama Conteh with Lucy M. Long

Georgia: Khinkali (Curried beef and pork)

104

Matthew Reger

German-Russian: Grebbel (Volga German crullers);

Schlitz-Kiechla (Black Sea German crullers)

105

Timothy J. Kloberdanz

Germany: Spaetzle (Noodle dumplings); Everyday Sauerkraut

(Cooked sweet and sour cabbage); Same-Day Sauerbraten

(Pot

roast)

107

Kristie Foell

Ghana: Ghanaian Tea Bread; Gari Foto (Cassava cake and

scrambled

eggs);

Nkatenkwa (Peanut soup)

109

Karin Vaneker

Greece: Fila with Avgolemono Sauce (Stuffed grape leaves with egg-lemon

sauce)

112

Tina Bucuvalas

Grenada: Oil Down (Coconut milk stew)

114

Alexandria Ayala

Guam: Tatiyas (Sweet flour flatbread)

115

Eric César Morales

Guatemala: Jocon Stew (Pumpkin seed and sesame seed stew)

116

Lois Stanford

Guinea: Mangoé Rafalari (Spicy mango and smoked fish stew)

118

Karin Vaneker

Guyana: Pepperpot (Cassareep stew)

119

Gillian Richards-Greaves

Gypsy: Pirogo (Egg noodle pudding dessert)

121

William G. Lockwood

x • Contents

Haiti: Haitian Spaghetti and Hot Dogs

123

Carlos C. Olaechea

Hawaii: Pork Laulau (Steamed pork, fish, and taro leaves)

125

Margaret Magat

Hmong: Taub Ntoos Quab (Green papaya salad)

126

Katy Clune and Dara Phrakousonh

Honduras: Sopa de Tapado Olanchano (Olancho-style

covered

soup)

127

M. Dustin Knepp

Hong Kong: Hong Kong–Style French Toast; Hong Kong–Style

Milk

Tea

128

Willa Zhen

Hungary: Paprikás csirke (Chicken paprikash); Nokedli (Dumplings) 130

Lili Kocsis

Iceland: Fish Soup

135

Maggie Ornstein

India: Mughlai Paratha (Filled pancake); Five-Minute Fish with

Turmeric and Salsa; Turnip and Chicken Curry

136

Colleen Sen

Indonesia: Gado Gado Sauce (Peanut sauce), Yellow

Coconut

Rice

139

Pat Tanumihardja

Iran: Khoresht-e-Fesenjaan or Fesenjoon (Chicken stewed with walnuts and pomegranate molasses); Polo (Persian rice)

141

Shahla Ray

Iraq: Makhlama (Omelet) 143

Laura K. Hahn

Ireland: Irish American Shepherd’s Pie

144

Arthur Lizie

Isle of Man: Christmas Bonnag (Candied fruit bread)

145

Betty J. Belanus

Israel: Zucchini Caviar

146

Liora Gvion

Italy: Spaghetti alle alici e noci (Spaghetti with anchovies and

walnuts);

Pollo al forno con patate e piselli (Chicken with

potatoes and peas)

147

Anthony F. Buccini

Jamaica: Jamaican Rice and Peas

151

Deion Jones

Contents • xi

Japan: Namasu (Vinegar-marinated carrot and daikon strips);

Buta no kocha-ni (Tea-boiled pork)

152

Ayako Yoshimura

Jewish, Ashkenazi: Challah (Bread); Kneydlekh (Matzo balls) 154

Eve Jochnowitz

Jewish, Sephardic: Panezico de Asucare or Boyos Dulces

(Sweet

bread)

156

Ken Albala

Jordan: Foul ( Ful Mudammas) (Breakfast beans)

157

Lucy M. Long and Issa Baiz

Kenya: Mchuzi na Wali (Meat stew and rice)

159

Sheila Navalia Onzere

Korea: Bulgogi (Fire meat)

161

Jonna Adams Goreham and Lucy M. Long

Kyrgyzstan. See Central Asia.

162

Kuwait: Zubaidi (Pomfret fish) and Rice

163

Nailam Elkhechen

Laos: Kua Mii (Lao fried noodles)

165

Sue Eleuterio

Latvia: Ja¯n∙u siers (Solstice cheese)

166

Susan Eleuterio

Liberia: Pepper Soup/Peppersoup (Spicy meat soup)

168

Esther Spencer and Lucy M. Long

Libya: Sharba Libya (Lamb soup)

169

Karin Vaneker

Liechtenstein: Ribel/Rebl (Cornmeal dumplings)

171

Thomas Wippenbeck

Lithuania: Potato Kugelis; Šaltibaršc˘iai (Cold beet soup) 172

Ric˘ardas Vidutis

Luxembourg: Stärzelen/Sterchelen (Buckwheat dumplings)

174

Hannah M. Santino

Macao: Porco Bafassá (Stewed-roasted pork in garlic-

turmeric

sauce)

177

António Jorge DaSilva

Macedonia: Cincinnati Chili

179

Adrienne Hall

Madagascar: Sakay (Pepper sauce); Romazava (Stew of beef and leafy green vegetables)

180

Karin Vaneker

xii • Contents

Malawi: Nsima (Porridge); Ndiwo (Sauce) 182

Christine Haar and Ariel Lyn Dodgson

Malaysia: Sambal (Chile sauce)

183

Howie Velie

Mali: Nono Kumo ani Bashi (Sour milk with bashi); Chicken Yassa 184

Malta and Gozo: Imqarrun il-forn (Maltese baked macaroni)

186

Adrienne Hall

Mayotte: Papaya with Coconut and Vegetables

187

Karin Vaneker

Melanesia: See Fiji, Solomon Islands, Papua New Guinea and

Vanuatu

188

Mennonite: Peppernuts (Cookies)

188

Catherine Hiebert Kerst

Mexico: Tortillas (Flat bread); Capirotada (Mexican

bread

pudding)

190

Gloria Enriquez Pizano

Micronesia: Gollai Apan Lemmai (Breadfruit in coconut milk);

Taro with Shellfish

192

Eric César Morales and Karin Vaneker

Moldova: Moldovan Potato Soup

193

Charles Baker-Clark

Monaco: Summer Barbajuans (Pastry); Oignons à la Monégasque

(Monacan-style onions)

194

Karin Vaneker

Mongolia: Hailmag (Cookie dough dessert); Buuz

(Filled dumplings)

196

Barbara Annan, Munkhbayar Dashzeveg

Morocco: Atay B’nanaa (Mint tea); Kefta bil mataisha wa bayd Tajine (Stew of ground beef with tomatoes and eggs)

198

M. Ruth Dike

Mozambique: Matata (Clam stew)

200

Karin Vaneker and Susan Eleuterio

Myanmar: Burmese Veggies with Hot Peppers

201

Ray P. Linville

Namibia: Butternut Squash Soup

203

Karin Vaneker and Lucy M. Long

Native American, Pacific Northwest: Cedar Plank Salmon with

Juniper-Blueberry Sauce and Roasted Potatoes

204

Stephanie St. Pierre

Native American, Plains: Meaty Mushroom, Corn, and

Turnip

Stew

205

Stephanie St. Pierre

Contents • xiii

Native American, Southwest: Corn Tortillas, Indian Fry Bread

207

Mary Crowley

Native American: Woodlands: Succotash

208

Christopher Bolfing

Nepal: Bhat (Rice); Dal (Lentils); Tarkari (Vegetable curry) 210

Matthew Branch

Netherlands: Waffle; Erwtensoep or Snert (Pea soup);

Speculaas (Saint Nicholas cookies)

212

Karin Vaneker

New Zealand: Pavlova (Meringue dessert)

215

Emily J. H. Contois and Katherine Hysmith

Nicaragua: Nacatamales (Festival tamales)

216

Katherine Borland

Niger: Poulet aux Arachides (Chicken in peanut sauce); Cecena ( Cesena) (Black-eyed beans and onion fritters)

218

Karin Vaneker and Lucy M. Long

Nigeria: Obe (Nigerian chicken stew)

219

Esther Spencer

Northern Ireland: Soda Farls (Soda bread quarters)

220

Hannah M. Santino and Lucy M. Long

Norway: Potetlefse (Potato pancakes)

222

Sallie Anna Steiner

Oman: Halwa (Dessert) 223

Barbara Toth

Pakistan: Sevai (Sweet vermicelli)

225

Deeksha Nagar

Palestine: Maklouba (Upside-down rice)

226

Nailam Elkhechen

Panama: Panamanian Potato and Beet Salad

227

Holly Howard and Anthony Howard

Papua New Guinea: Chicken Pot

228

Karin Vaneker

Paraguay: Sopa Paraguaya (Cornbread cake)

229

Lois Stanford

Pennsylvania Dutch: Pickled Red Beet Eggs

230

Amy Reddinger

Peru: Maracuya Sour: Ceviche Mixto con Chicharrones de Calamar

(Mixed ceviche with fried squid); Maracuyá Sour (Passion

fruit

sour)

232

W. Gabriel Mitchell

Philippines: Chicken Adobo

233

Margaret Magat

xiv • Contents

Poland: Grandma Nowak’s Pierogi (Filled dumplings); Bonnie’s

Mazurek (Polish wedding cake)

234

Zachary Nowak

Polynesia: Also see entries for Samoa, Tonga, French Polynesia

(includes Tahiti), Cook Islands.

236

Portugal: Portuguese Sweet Bread; Kale Soup

236

Susan Eleuterio

Puerto Rico: Bacalao (Codfish salad)

238

Elena Martinez

Roma American. See Gypsy.

241

Romania: Chicken with Garlic Sauce

241

Charles Baker Clark

Russia: Blini (Pancake)

242

Kathrine C. Hysmith

Rwanda: Imboga or Isombe (Cassava leaf “sauce”); Igisafuliya (Chicken stew with plantain and spinach)

243

Karin Vaneker

Samoa: Koko Alaisa (Chocolate rice pudding)

245

Eric César Morales

San Marino: Lasagna Verdi al Forno 246

Saudi Arabia: Kabsa (Rice and chicken)

246

Suleiman Almulhem

Scotland: Scotch Shortbread (Cookies)

248

Tavia Rowan

Senegal: Thiebou-dienne (Stewed fish with rice); Poulet Yassa (Chicken with onions and lemon)

249

Diana Baird N’Diaye

Serbia and Montenegro: Sarma (Stuffed cabbage rolls)

252

Charles Baker-Clark

Seychelles: Daube de Banane Plantain (Braised plantains)

253

Karin Vaneker

Sicily: Gloucester, Massachusetts, St. Joseph’s Pasta ( Fettucini

with cauliflower, fennel, and dried beans)

254

Heather Atwood

Sierra Leone: Sorrel Sauce with Fish on Fufu 256

Esther Spencer

Singapore: Hainanese Chicken Rice

257

Pat Tanumihardja

Slovakia: Kolache (Hungarian nut cookies)

258

Susan Eleuterio

Contents • xv

Slovenia: Potica (Nut roll)

260

Nicholas Eaton

Solomon Islands: Slippery Cabbage Soup

261

Karin Vaneker

Somalia: Sambuus (Samosas or stuffed savory pastries)

262

Katrina Wynn

South Africa: Makoenya (Pastry)

263

Nomvula Mashoai-Cook

South Sudan: Kabab (Beef and vegetable skillet fry)

264

Dominic Raimondo

Spain: Gazpacho (Chilled tomato soup); Piparrada (Eggs

scrambled with tomato and pepper)

266

Whitney E. Brown

Sri Lanka: Brinjal (Eggplant curry); Pol Sambol (Coconut sambol) 267

Jane Dusselier

Sudan: See South Sudan.

269

Suriname: Telo met Bakkeljauw (Deep-fried cassava strips with

stewed clipfish); Suriname Sauerkraut with Salted Beef

and

Potato

269

Karin Vaneker

Sweden: Julkaka (Yule cakes)

271

Amy Dahlstrom

Switzerland: Cheese Fondue; Chocolate Fondue,

Fashnacht Kuekli, (Deep fried pancakes); Kuttle (Tripe) 272

Linda E. Schiesser

Syria: Syrian Hummus (Chickpea dip); Syrian Tabbouleh

(Parsley-bulgur

salad)

274

Sally M. Baho

Taiwan: Lu rou fan or Loh bah bun (Braised aromatic pork on rice) 277

Willa Zhen

Tajikistan. See Central Asia.

279

Tanzania: Pilau (Rice dish); Kale (or other greens); Samaki

Wa Nazi (Coconut fish curry)

279

Sarah Tekle

Thailand: Pad Thai (Stir fry rice noodles)

281

Rachelle H. Saltzman and Emily Ridout

Tibet: Momos (Filled dumplings)

282

Zilia C. Estrada

Togo: Fufu (Dough ball)

284

Anne Pryor

xvi • Contents

Tonga: Lupulu (Corned beef in coconut milk); ’Ota ’Ika

(Fish

salad)

284

Margaret Magat and Eric César Morales

Trinidad and Tobago: Curry Chicken

286

Tricia Ferdinand

Tunisia: Tunisian Couscous (Crushed wheat) with Chicken;

Ras el hanout Spice Mix

287

Nailam Elkhechen and Lucy M. Long

Turkey: Ezogelin Soup

290

Y. Ozan Say

Turkmenistan. See Central Asia.

291

Uganda: Katogo-byenda (Tripe and sweetbread casserole);

Gnut Sauce (Groundnut sauce); Pocho (Corn flour porridge) 293

Karin Vaneker

Ukraine: Borshch (Beet soup)

295

Charlie McNabb

Uruguay: Torta Pascualina (Easter tart)

296

Lois Stanford

Uzbekistan. See Central Asia.

297

Vanuatu: Lap Lap (Taro, cabbage, coconut milk pudding)

299

Karin Vaneker

Venezuela: La Reina Pepiada (Filled pie); Salad

300

Andrea M. Lubrano

Vietnam: Pho (Meat broth noodle soup)

301

Lucy M. Long

Wales: Mary’s Welsh Cake

303

Betty Belanus

Yemen: Aseed (Meat pie)

305

Dr. Lamya Almas

Zambia: Cassava nshima (Bread); Supu (Tomato dipping sauce) 309

Ariel Lyn Dodgson

Zimbabwe: Muboora (Pumpkin leaves sauce); Sadza

(Corn porridge)

311

Karin Vaneker

Index

313

About the Author

321

Acknowledgments

A project like this always requires people working behind the scenes, help-ing with tasks that are largely administrative and tedious. Holly Howard and Tavia Rowan have provided that support, and I could not have done this

without them. Others stepped forward in gathering, revising, and testing

recipes. First and foremost among these is Karin Vaneker, but I also want to thank Sue Eleuterio, Christine Haar, Charlie McNabb, and Sarah Tekle.

xvii

Introduction

Lucy M. Long

This is not an ordinary cookbook. It is meant to be cooked from, but it is much more. The recipes offer a taste of the multitude of ethnicities making up contemporary American culinary culture. They are “tidbits” of that richness, windows into the complexities and nuances of those cuisines, and mirrors on our own gustatory experiences, tastes, and assumptions. They illustrate how food cultures are fluid and dynamic, adapting to new circumstances and offering new ways for individuals and groups to express their identities, values, histories, and personalities. They also demonstrate that many individuals use food to find or maintain a sense of heritage, create communities around that heritage, and strengthen family relationships as well as the more pragmatic activities of filling one’s stomach or making a living and securing financial stability. These recipes show that food nurtures in many ways—physically, socially, emotionally—and that taste can be a personal aesthetic pleasure as well as a reflection of cultural histories.

This is asking a lot from a recipe! Not all of that information is obvious in each one here—we sometimes have to learn how to “read” food—but brief

introductions suggest ways in which a recipe represents either the culinary culture of an ethnicity or some of the processes seen in adapting foods to a host country. Ultimately, we hope that this cookbook makes us all more

aware of the connections that food offers.

Many of the recipes are reprinted from the two-volume Ethnic American Food Today: A Cultural Encyclopedia, published in 2015 by Rowman & Littlefield and also edited by Lucy Long. Additional recipes are given for ethnic xix

xx • Introduction

groups that did not include one in the encyclopedia, and, in some cases,

alternative recipes are given. The Encyclopedia was organized by country of origin, and this cookbook does the same. This means that some ethnicities cross over national boundaries or that names of nations have changed, but ethnic identifiers have remained the same, so it is important to look at geo-graphic regions as a whole. These are stated after the country, along with the name used by the group itself. Brief introductions to the recipes are provided, but readers are encouraged to turn to the Encyclopedia for comprehensive background on the foodways of immigrants to the United States as well as

on the place of that food within American food culture.

Contributors of the recipes come from a range of backgrounds, including

culinary historians, food studies scholars, professional chefs, cookbook writers, and home cooks. Many draw from their own experiences and family traditions, while others worked with community scholars or ethnographic data. Many recipes have been “translated” from oral tradition in an attempt to put on paper aspects of cooking done by taste and feel. Also, the recipes have been tested for use in American kitchens with ingredients available in American supermarkets. Some original ingredients are simply not found in the United States, and substitutions are suggested when possible, although, in some cases, it is actually easier to acquire certain ingredients here than in their home countries. Also, some ethnic groups that have been in the United States for extended periods have held on to recipes that are no longer in use in the country of origin or have added ingredients that are unheard of in that country.

Some definitions are helpful here. Ethnicity refers to “groupings that were culturally distinguishable from a larger social system of which they formed some part.”1 An important point here is that ethnicity exists within another culture, which in turn partly defines it and shapes the ways in which individuals within that group act out that identity. It is also a perception and emotional sense of belonging to that group. Individuals might have a particular ancestry but not recognize it as part of their personal history or identity—or, ideally, can recognize it and use it as a cultural and aesthetic resource according to different situations. Food is one way in which individuals and groups acknowledge, perform, and negotiate their ethnicity. It is used to define that ethnicity as well as to shape relationships to it.

In this sense, ethnic food plays a significant role in how people live in today’s multicultural world. It can help individuals find a place in the present while also maintaining a sense of connection to their past and forging new futures. It can also, though, be turned against them, to pigeonhole them and keep them as outsiders, or to emphasize difference as something negative.

Understanding the complexity of ethnic food can help us understand the

Introduction • xxi

subtle and not-so-subtle ways in which such divisions are created. While appreciating someone else’s food does not automatically lead to appreciation for their c
great desserts, paleo desserts, pasta sauce recipe, light beer, homemade ice cream, ur warmth and enthusiastic support of this project.

Thanks to my sweet Grandma Millie for love, great cooking, and filling my life with a steady stream of cookies, brownies, and various other Scandinavian confections.

Much love and gratitude to my parents, Mike and Julie Disbrowe, for your love, support, and endless efforts to make our lives smoother. Our adventure has been richer (and houses and gardens neater!) because you shared it with us. Thanks, Mom, for being one of my official recipe testers, and Dad, for being an official taster. Thanks to my brothers, Tim and Tyler Disbrowe, for always being proud of their big sister.

Last, but far from least, I thank my husband, David Norman. You have been there for me at every step, from bringing me sandwiches while I was holed up writing my proposal to picking up kitchen shifts and literally shoveling more shit so I could finish this book. No one’s feedback, or palate, has mattered more. Thanks for having the guts to move to Texas. This story would not be a story without you.

Introduction

A Door Opens

Switching it over to AM

Searching for a truer sound

Can’t recall the call letters

Steel guitar and settle down

Catching an all-night station somewhere in Louisiana

It sounds like 1963, but for now it sounds like heaven.

—SON VOLT, “WINDFALL”

Every now and then the stars align and an unexpected door opens. You find yourself in a quandary. Do you walk past the door and continue with what is familiar, or do you walk through the door and turn your world upside down? This is a story about walking through the door.

A little more than four years ago, I knew almost nothing about the Texas Hill Country. Despite the fact that I had racked up plenty of frequent flyer miles as a food and travel writer, this unique part of the United States—a swath of rolling green nestled between the pines to the east and the Giant landscape to the west—had escaped my radar. There was really no excuse, given the fact that I spent a brief chapter of my childhood to the southeast, in Yoakum, Texas, picking bluebonnets and Indian paintbrush flowers, poking at possums (playing possum and ignoring me), and cheering armadillo races from my dad’s shoulders.

There was a lot I didn’t know about the Hill Country—the brisket and breakfast tacos, the fire ants and scorpions, the cactus blossoms and oak trees. And I certainly had no idea what it was like to live on a ranch. Now, as I reflect on how immersed our lives have become in this world, I’m amazed at the transformation that has ensued. Somewhere along the line, the Disney Texas that I first felt when I’d don a cowboy hat and pearl-snap-button shirt became more authentic. My jeans faded and my boots wore in, and I earned some legitimate cowgirl notches in my belt. More important, my inner dialogue quieted down. I used to find myself thinking, Isn’t this wild? I’m in a feed store buying bales of hay. Soon the errand was just that—a task as familiar as hailing a taxi in New York once was.

As I write this we have a baby lamb sleeping in a box in our kitchen, a kid goat curled up on the porch with our three dogs, and a rooster imprisoned in the backyard on murder charges (two young roosters are dead and the hens aren’t talking). And all this seems relatively normal. But I’m getting ahead of myself.

Before moving to the Texas Hill Country, I was a city girl. I lived in New York for ten years, with a two-year detour to Europe.

I first came to the Detering Ranch (aka Hart & Hind), a spectacular 5,250-acre property ninety miles west of San Antonio, in October 2001 to write a magazine article about a bakery in Fredricksburg. I penciled in a trip to Hart & Hind, a new guest ranch, hoping it might provide another story. It was then that I first met Kit, the owner and founder of Hart & Hind. I immediately liked her irreverent humor and unassuming nature. We’re both fast walkers, so we became acquainted on daily hikes.

Kit had been unimpressed with her experiences at trendy, of-the-moment spas, and wondered why she paid top dollar to leave her own spectacular setting. So she decided to create her own retreat—an “un-spa” inspired by the rugged landscape. The program would play up hiking, horseback riding, and good food, and leave the fluff-and-buff stuff to more frivolous destinations.

In turn, I told Kit that my boyfriend David Norman, then the head bread baker at Bouley Bakery in Manhattan, and I had been thinking about making a change. I had ten great years of New York under my belt, but I was getting older and weary of the same games. I was increasingly desperate to escape the land of beige office cubicles. I was tired of paying too much money for a tiny apartment. I wanted to spend more time outdoors and reconnect with the things that the city forced me to compartmentalize. My frequent travel was fun, but the freedom was deceptive. I spent too much time on airplanes, flying over homes with warmly lit windows.

David and I started talking about “what next.” It was sport dreaming and it was cheap. Maybe Northern California or Tuscany? Maybe the Pacific Northwest? If no one had called my bluff, I would have continued to “think about a change” for another five years. New York is a famously difficult place to live, but it’s an even tougher place to leave.

Kit had her own ideas. Her chef had just quit. “Why don’t you two come down here and run this place?” she asked with her usual spontaneity. I was flattered, but my initial thought was a resounding Yeah, right! Where could I find Vietnamese takeout or Prosecco by the glass? Where would I meet girlfriends for cocktails and gossip? Perhaps most important, I saw myself as a writer more than a cook. I’d spent the last several years behind a keyboard, not a stove. I hadn’t cooked full-time since living in France.

Yet the proposition was alluring. Despite myself, I started to get excited. The chapter I spent in Europe had made me a sucker for dramatic detours. I’d enjoyed several fun, frenetic years in New York, but I could predict the next few. The utterly new experience of living on a ranch—that was exciting.

Before I flew back to New York, I called David from the San Antonio airport. It happened to be his birthday. “I’m not going to give you any details,” I said, “but as I fly home I want you to think about the job title ‘ranch manager.’” Click. Later that night, over a mojito or three, he came around to my way of thinking. It was time for a change.

Just two months later, we loaded two apartments of stuff into a Penske truck and said many tearful good-byes. We pulled into the ranch on January 2 and haven’t looked back since.

Our adventure unfolded quickly. With our first paychecks, we bought cowboy hats. With our second check came the leather boots. The horses, saddles, and pickup truck came months later. Both David and I share the sentiment that if you’re going to live somewhere, you might as well live there. So we set about immersing ourselves in the unique culture of south central Texas. And we rolled up our sleeves and started cooking.

I wanted to make food that had a context, so I started cooking the kind of things I would want to eat in such a setting. The recipes are a confluence of people and places that have shaped my sensibilities, as well as the area’s beloved cooking traditions and ingredients. You won’t find sea urchins, truffles, squash blossoms, or candied violets in these recipes. While I love all those ingredients, I wanted to cook with ingredients I could find at local grocery stores.

South central Texas influences these recipes in many ways. I was living on a working cattle ranch, after all, so I served steak and other local favorites like venison and quail, citrus fruit (ruby red grapefruit, oranges, valley lemons), flour and corn tortillas, pinto beans, locally grown cabbage and broccoli, and fresh shrimp and snapper from the Gulf. I used local products whenever possible, be it homegrown pecans, honey from Uvalde (the self-proclaimed honey capital of the world), herbs from my garden, or our own fresh ranch eggs.

Most of our food is inherently healthy because we use good fresh ingredients, but this is not a diet book. This is about fresh, satisfying food that is easy enough to prepare while living life (and juggling its demands) to the fullest. We created the menu with selfish motivations: We wanted to serve food that we’d be proud of, but we also wanted to be outside, participating in ranch life as much as possible. Based on feedback from our past guests, we succeeded.

Before we moved to Texas, I never had a taste for land, and certainly never dreamed of owning any. As we fell in love with ranch life, it was all I could think about. When I thought about what I wanted next, for the first time in my life I had a concise answer. I wanted to keep the best aspects of my days here: wide open spaces and room to raise animals, hills to hike, fresh eggs to gather, a garden and a pace that allowed time to cook good food and share it with the people I care about. Our adventure has been anything but predictable. But the biggest surprise of all was that when Hart & Hind closed last year, we decided to strike out on our own and stay. Choices are evolutionary. Sooner or later it’s time to find a new place to love.

So we bought a ranch of our own in the Nueces Canyon—100 acres on a lonely highway in the shadow of Bull’s Head Mountain. We packed up our menagerie of animals, ordered more chickens, and deepened our commitment to the Hill Country and this sort of living—and cooking.

I like living life in chapters because the days remain vibrant and dense with learning. The Hill Country has been, and remains, an incredible chapter—and we’ve eaten awfully well to boot. I am delighted to share both the food and the escapades that have happened along the way.

Ranch Breakfasts

If I haul myself out of bed early enough I can watch the sun break over the soft slope of hills that rise at the end of a field in front of our house. The light comes in two ways. When it’s overcast, the sky is a wash of periwinkle before easing into cotton candy pink and then increasingly radiant shades of coral. On clear days the hills are a sharp silhouette backlit by a crisp, bright stroke of butter yellow. As the sky brightens, our morning rituals begin. The bedroom door is cracked open, and Flannery the cat darts past my foot to reclaim the bed. We let the dogs out of the laundry room; they step into the backyard to stretch and yawn. One of us fills two cups of coffee.

My sleepy-eyed drive to the lodge, where I cook for guests, often feels like a video game where I am a character on a mission. Along the way I hit several targets that trigger a specific reaction. As I pull out of the driveway and past the windmills, the blesbok, an exotic African antelope that escaped from a nearby ranch, snorts at the truck, territorially shaking his head and pawing the earth. I descend a small hill and pass a row of live oaks where three rabbits pop up from a warren, race alongside the truck, then disappear down into new holes. As I near the pond, the snapping turtles that rest on a partially submerged log slip seamlessly into the dark water. When I reach the creek, a gray heron takes flight, each day gliding along the same arc of air. I can’t help but wonder if these animals anticipate me as I do them. I drive between my garden and the pasture of goats; they bawl and gallop along the fence for a few yards. Finally I park behind the lodge, flip on the lights and music, cinch an apron around my waist, and start cooking.

Some people pride themselves on skipping breakfast. I wake up hungry. Breakfast is the meal most evocative of ranch life, and in true Western tradition, ranch breakfasts are heartier and less harried. I’ve learned that a beautiful, thoughtfully prepared morning meal—whether it’s a bowl of yogurt adorned with a drizzle of syrup and a scattering of toasted seeds or a plate of spicy Mexican eggs—can be as satisfying as anything I will eat that day. Because our days are long and active, everybody needs to be well fueled. The same can be said for the daily demands of any active person.

Cooking for guests, I’ve also discovered that breakfast is by far the most personal meal. Morning customs are particular and not to be tampered with (half-and-half is as crucial to one person’s coffee as vanilla soymilk is to another’s). For some, morning bliss is a bowl of crunchy, nutty granola or a warm Blackberry Blue Corn Muffin. For others, heaven is Eggs over Polenta with Serrano-Spiked Tomato Sauce.

In the spirit of true camp cooking, David makes a hearty campfire breakfast outdoors—a chuck wagon fantasy come to life. Eating fresh ranch eggs scrambled with green chiles, warm buttermilk biscuits drizzled with cane syrup, and homemade turkey sausage outside in the sweet morning air is one of the most beautiful ways I know to start the day. We sip thick cowboy coffee from tin cups and watch the goats and horses grazing in the distance. But even if you can’t eat out on the range, make this breakfast (we prepare it inside as well!). You’ll love the satisfying flavors that deliver an undeniable Texas kick.

Canyon Granola

Makes 11 to 12 cups

One brisk and bracing morning, as I hauled buckets of sweet feed to the pasture, it occurred to me that I have a breakfast habit in common with my horses. We both like to start the day with crunchy, sweetened whole grains. Mercifully, I am able to keep more of them in my mouth while chewing. Oats, nuts, and seeds are essential to good health—but I crave this cereal because it’s delicious. Pecans, an important local crop, are a natural for Canyon Granola—we have three orchards on the ranch. They nicely complement a few other favorite ingredients, like pepitas (green hulled Mexican pumpkin seeds, available in natural food or specialty stores) and sweet, chewy dried peaches and cherries. Scatter a few tablespoons of these crunchy, chewy nuggets over plain yogurt, enjoy them as cereal with milk, or simply tuck a serving into your bag (saddle or gym) as a snack. Clear bags of this granola, cinched tight with a few ribbons and paired with some tin coffee cups, make excellent hostess gifts.

1 cup pure MAPLE SYRUP

½ cup DARK BROWN SUGAR

1/3 cup CANOLA OIL

¾ teaspoon SALT

1 tablespoon pure VANILLA EXTRACT

4 cups old-fashioned OATS

4 ounces (about 1 cup) PECAN HALVES

2 ounces (about ½ cup) PEPITAS

2 ounces (about ½ cup) SUNFLOWER SEEDS

½ cup WHOLE WHEAT FLOUR

½ cup NONFAT DRY MILK POWDER

1/3 cup ground FLAXSEED MEAL

4 ounces (generous ½ cup) chopped DRIED PEACHES or NECTARINES

4 ounces (generous ½ cup) DRIED CHERRIES or GOLDEN RAISINS

1. Place the oven racks on the upper and lower thirds of the oven and preheat to 300°F.

2. Combine the maple syrup, brown sugar, oil, and salt in a small saucepan over medium heat. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the brown sugar is dissolved. Stir in the vanilla.

3. In a large bowl, combine the oats, pecans, pepitas, sunflower seeds, flour, milk powder, and flaxseed meal. Pour the warm syrup mixture over the dry ingredients and use a rubber spatula to combine well.

4. Divide the moistened oats evenly between two baking sheets. Bake for 20 minutes, then stir with a metal spatula and rotate the sheets to opposite racks to ensure even baking. Bake another 20 minutes, then stir and switch pans again. Bake until the mixture has a fragrant, toasty aroma, another 10 to 15 minutes. Cool the granola in the pans, breaking up any unwieldy clumps with a spatula. When the mixture is completely cool, mix in the dried peaches and cherries and store at room temperature in an airtight container.

Breakfast Tacos 101

Makes 4 tacos

Served in taquerias and gas stations throughout the Hill Country, the breakfast taco is a beloved tradition and one of the first local food customs that I eagerly embraced. In the morning, they are as common as cornflakes. At just about any restaurant that serves breakfast, the menu will feature a roster of huevos scrambled with a choice of one or two other savory ingredients such as chorizo, bacon, fried potatoes, sautéed onions and poblanos, or grated cheese served in a warm fresh flour tortilla. The belt-busting bean and cheese taco, hefty with thick, creamy refried beans and grated cheese, is another favorite.

Breakfast tacos made with scrambled eggs are the perfect outlet for any ingredients that you might have on hand. I’ve given a standard recipe below, but feel free to add sautéed mushrooms, bell peppers, onions, tomatoes, or nopalitos (cactus paddles). You can also add any grated cheese, leftover meat (slices of smoked sausage are a favorite), or chopped fresh herbs. As with any dish of limited ingredients, the quality of each item is key. The best free-range eggs and tender, fresh tortillas transform this speedy breakfast into a sublime eating experience.

1 tablespoon OLIVE OIL

8 large EGGS

KOSHER SALT and freshly ground BLACK PEPPER

Dash of HOT SAUCE

1 bunch of SCALLIONS, thinly sliced

1/3 cup chopped fresh CILANTRO

½ cup GRATED CHEESE, such as Cheddar, jack, cotija, or queso fresco

4 flour TORTILLAS

1. Heat the olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat and swirl to coat.

2. In a medium bowl, use a fork to lightly beat the eggs with salt, pepper, and hot sauce.

3. Add the scallions to the skillet and cook, stirring, until softened.

4. Pour in the eggs and cilantro and use a spatula to push the edges of the eggs toward the center of the skillet, tilting the skillet as you go, until no liquid remains. Just before the eggs set, fold in the cheese.

5. Meanwhile, heat the tortillas (see “Warming Tortillas,” opposite). Divide the eggs evenly among the tortillas and serve with your favorite red or green salsa or another dash of hot sauce.

WARMING TORTILLAS Store-bought tortillas become more flavorful and pliable when heated. Some of the freshest tortillas can even be a bit sticky when you buy them, from undercooking. I cook

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