Gambero Rosso – November 2018 [free magazines]


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    ALSO BY NANCY SILVERTON

    The Mozza Cookbook

    (with Matt Molina and Carolynn Carreño)

    A Twist of the Wrist

    (with Carolynn Carreño)

    Nancy Silverton’s Sandwich Book

    (with Teri Gelber)

    Nancy Silverton’s Pastries from the La Brea Bakery

    (in collaboration with Teri Gelber)

    The Food of Campanile

    (with Mark Peel)

    Nancy Silverton’s Breads from the La Brea Bakery

    (in collaboration with Laurie Ochoa)

    Mark Peel and Nancy Silverton at Home: Two Chefs Cook for Family and Friends

    Desserts

    (with Heidi Yorkshire)

    THIS IS A BORZOI BOOK

    PUBLISHED BY ALFRED A. KNOPF

    Copyright © 2016 by Nancy Silverton

    All rights reserved. Published in the United States by Alfred A. Knopf, a division of Penguin Random House LLC, New York, and distributed in Canada by Random House of Canada, a division of Penguin Random House Limited, Toronto.

    www.​aaknopf.​com

    Knopf, Borzoi Books, and the colophon are registered trademarks of Penguin Random House LLC.

    Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data

    Silverton, Nancy, author.

    Mozza at home / by Nancy Silverton with Carolynn Carreño; photographs by Christopher Hirsheimer.

    pages cm

    Includes index.

    ISBN 978-0-385-35432-5 (hardcover)—ISBN 978-0-385-35433-2 (ebook)

    1. Cooking, Italian. 2. Entertaining. 3. Pizzeria Mozza. I. Carreño, Carolynn, author. II. Hirsheimer, Christopher, photographer. III. Title.

    TX723.S4838 2016 641.5945—dc23 2015029125

    Ebook ISBN 9780385354332

    Cover photograph by Christopher Hirsheimer

    Cover design by Abby Weintraub

    v4.1

    a

    To my parents, Doris and Larry

    Thank you for our nightly family table,

    the most beautiful experience a child can ever have.

    Contents

    Also by Nancy Silverton

    Copyright

    Dedication

    Introduction

    1

    Umbrian Tavola

    Ella’s Pinzimonio

    Oven-Roasted Grapes on the Vine

    Marinated Roasted Sweet Peppers

    Glazed Onions Agrodolce

    Marinated Lentils

    Chickpea Purée alla Massolino

    Bean Salad with Celery Leaf Pesto

    White Beans

    Pan-Roasted Radicchio with Balsamic Vinaigrette

    Braised Garlic Cloves

    Garlic Cloves Confit

    Faith’s Tomato Salad with Burrata and Torn Croutons

    Torn Croutons

    2

    Sal’s Roasted Pork Shoulder

    Guacamole

    Avocado Salsa

    Charred Tomato Salsa

    Tomatillo Salsa

    Grilled or Roasted Spring Onions

    Staff Meal Rice

    Chicken Stock

    Refried White Beans

    Charred Italian or Mexican Peppers

    3

    Niçoise Deconstructed: Olive Oil–Poached Albacore

    Bibb Salad with Soft Herbs

    Mixed Summer Beans with Chiles, Almonds, and Creamy Mustard Dressing

    Marinated Pickled Italian Peppers with Anchovies and Olives

    Marinated Pickled Italian Peppers

    Grilled or Roasted Spring Onions with Anchovies and Burrata

    Deviled Eggs with Pickled Mustard Seeds

    Perfect Hard-Cooked Eggs

    Pickled Mustard Seeds

    Garlic Mayonnaise

    Mayonnaise Variations

    Egg Salad with Bagna Cauda Toast

    Bagna Cauda

    Black Olive Tapenade

    4

    Saturday Night Chicken Thighs with Italian Sausage and Spicy Pickled Peppers

    Spicy Pickled Peppers

    Marinated Olives and Fresh Pecorino

    Mixed Chicories Salad with Mustard Vinaigrette

    Twice-Roasted Smashed Potatoes with Rosemary and Sage

    Roasted Carrot and Wheat Berry Salad with Dill

    5

    Grilled Lamb Shoulder Chops with Mint Yogurt Sauce

    Tikka Marinade

    Mint Yogurt Sauce

    Curry-Roasted Cauliflower

    Marinated Summer Squash Salad

    Stuffed Artichokes

    Farro Salad with Fresh Herbs and Feta

    Roasted Asparagus with Herb Vinaigrette

    Herb Vinaigrette

    Roasted Eggplant with Herb Vinaigrette

    Spring Gem Salad with Soft Herbs and Labneh Toasts

    Lemon Vinaigrette

    Labneh

    6

    Eggs for Anytime

    Egg Pie with Bacon, Potato, and Caramelized Onion

    All-Butter Par-Baked Pie Shell

    Egg Pie with Goat Cheese, Leeks, and Garlic Confit

    Egg Pie with Braised Swiss Chard and Ham

    Croissant Bread Pudding with Creamed Spinach and Ham

    Avocado Toasts with Garlic Mayonnaise and Toasted Coriander

    Fava, Pea, and Mint Salad with Fresh Pecorino

    7

    The Ultimate Hamburger

    Ultimate Hamburger Onions

    Liz’s Secret Sauce

    Spicy Tarragon Mustard

    Potato Chips with Atomic Horseradish Cream

    Iceberg Wedge Salad with Gorgonzola Dressing

    Sliced Heirloom Tomatoes with Sweet Onion Dressing

    Spicy Cucumber Pickles

    8

    Staff Meal Oven-Roasted Chicken Thighs

    Balsamic-Glazed Mushrooms

    Roasted Vegetable Medley with Yogurt Dressing

    Yogurt Dressing

    Baked Japanese Sweet Potatoes with Fried Sage Leaves and Bacon

    Endive Salad with Date Anchovy Dressing

    Carrot and Rice Salad with Ginger Sumac Dressing

    9

    Sicilian Swordfish Spiedini

    Couscous Salad with Root Vegetables and Ricotta Salata

    Pan-Roasted Cauliflower Wedges with Bagna Cauda

    Slow-Roasted Roma Tomatoes with Garlic and Thyme

    Gino Angelini’s Braised Artichokes

    10

    Garlic-Rubbed Skirt Steak with Scallion Vinaigrette

    Scallion Vinaigrette

    Skillet Corn Bread with Honey Butter and Scallion Butter

    Honey Butter

    Scallion Butter

    Chris Feldmeier’s Santa Maria–Style Beans

    Charred Broccolini with Salami and Burrata

    Corn and Fava Bean Succotash Salad

    11

    Dean Fearing’s Frito Pie

    Whole Leaf Caesar Salad with Fried Parsley Leaves and Anchovy Croutons

    12

    Braised Oxtails

    Braised Celery

    Braised Cabbage Wedges with Bacon

    Pan Cotto

    Shaved Brussels Sprouts Salad with Pecorino and Toasted Almonds

    13

    Dave’s Oven-Roasted Grouper with Spicy Tomato Marmalade and Tahini

    Roasted Radishes and Turnips with Radish Sprouts and Dill

    Grilled Escarole with Salsa Rustica

    Salsa Rustica

    Mixed Grain and Seed Salad

    Roasted Carrots and Chickpeas with Cumin Vinaigrette

    Blistered Green Beans with Yogurt Dressing

    14

    Eggplant Lasagne

    Prosciutto Mozzarella Parcels

    Radicchio Salad with Bacon and Egg

    15

    Backyard Peel ’n’ Eat Shrimp Boil

    Celery Root Remoulade with Fresh Horseradish and Toasted Almonds

    Remoulade

    Green Potato Leek Salad with Scallion Vinaigrette

    Corn on the Cob with Chile Butter

    16

    Lamb and Chicken Tikka Kebabs

    Fire-Roasted Eggplant Caviar

    Fett’unta

    Garlic Crostini

    Jalapeño Labneh

    Yogurt with Cucumbers

    Marinated Radicchio and Beet Salad with Labneh Cheese Balls

    Muhammara

    Kale Freekeh Tabbouleh

    17

    Flattened Chicken Thighs with Charred Lemon Salsa Verde

    Charred Lemon Salsa Verde

    Panicale Popcorn

    Pastrami Popcorn

    Pasta Salad with Bitter Greens, Parmigiano Cream, and Guanciale

    Parmigiano Cream

    Oily Garlicky Spinach

    Kale Salad with Marinated White Anchovies and Ricotta Salata

    Roasted Onions with Crispy Bread Crumbs

    18

    Spicy Pork Stew with Butternut Squash and Roasted Tomatillo Salsa

    Roasted Tomatillo Salsa

    Spiced Rice with Pumpkin Seeds

    Quesadillas

    Pickled Jalapeño Peppers

    Seasoned Avocado Halves

    19

    Southern-Style Korean Cut Short Ribs with Vinegar Onions

    Pimento Cheese with Celery Sticks

    Husk-Style Pickled Green Beans

    Pickled Carrots

    Pickled Shallots

    Spicy Braised Greens with Vinegar and Ham Hock

    Coleslaw with Green Goddess Dressing

    Erik Black’s Potato Salad

    Flaky Buttermilk Biscuits

    20

    Desserts

    Spiced Carrot Cake with Molasses Cream Cheese Frosting (on the Side)

    Polenta Cake with Brutti Ma Buoni Topping

    Torta di Riso

    Dario’s Olive Oil Cake with Rosemary and Pine Nuts

    Mexican Wedding Cookies

    Bittersweet Chocolate Tartufo with Olive Oil Croutons and Sea Salt

    Four-Layer Salted Chocolate Caramel Tart

    Genevieve’s Salted Walnut Shortbreads

    Chess Pie

    Amy’s Brunettes

    Dark Chocolate Pudding

    Devil’s Food Rings with Spiced White Mountain Frosting

    Liz’s Bird Food

    Deconstructed Stone Fruit Crisp with Sbrisolona and Mascarpone Cream

    Robert Abele’s White Chocolate Birthday Crunch

    Spiced Caramel Corn with Salty Peanuts

    Chai Chocolate Chip Cookies

    Acknowledgments

    Index

    Introduction

    Owning four busy Mozza restaurants in Southern California and two in Singapore, it’s surprisingly easy to forget how and why I started down the path that led me here so many years ago: because of the immense pleasure I get from cooking a meal and serving it to family and friends. For many years while running La Brea Bakery and the pastry kitchen at Campanile, my first restaurant, which I opened in 1989 with my then husband, I didn’t cook at all—other than foods, such as pasta with butter, for my kids’ dinner. But that changed about fifteen years ago, when I started spending time in Italy. From the very first summer that I rented an apartment in a small medieval hill town on the Umbria-Tuscany border where I now own a home, my being situated in Umbria and the bounty of the area turned out to be the perfect storm that blew me back into the kitchen.

    With local ingredients including cherry tomatoes, red torpedo onions, and fragrant basil at the height of their season; regional specialties such as chickpeas, lentils, and sheep’s milk cheese; long summer days when it stays light until almost ten o’clock; and an endless cast of hungry friends who arrived weekly from Los Angeles and rented apartments and houses in the same town, I started cooking again—more than I ever had. And despite the fact that I had rented a house with a tiny kitchen stocked with aluminum pots and pans and one dull knife, I was reminded of how much I love preparing food for family and friends—old and new.

    My friend Suzanne Tracht, also a chef and restaurant owner, of the Los Angeles chophouse Jar, had rented an apartment right on the piazza, in the center of town. During the day, Suzanne and I and other friends would explore the surrounding areas, discovering cheese makers, farm stands, outdoor markets that popped up in different towns on different days, and little artisan shops that sold pastas, oils, vinegars, and other condiments. We were like kids in candy stores. We bought everything that delighted us, brought it home to our inadequate kitchens, and we cooked. And cooked and cooked.

    While we were preparing the food, the guys and the kids would set up a long table outside, essentially in the piazza (in fact, an indoor/outdoor restaurant now exists in the very space where we once put our table). Suzanne and I would put out platters of food as they were done, preparations that showcased all the wonderful ingredients we found locally: balsamic-glazed onions with fresh bay leaves, slow-roasted tomatoes on the vine, radicchio salad, hand-sliced local prosciutto, and grilled bread—simple, rustic foods that could be prepared ahead of time, so we could sit down and enjoy the meal with everyone else. Soon, we discovered we loved our own private “restaurant” as much as going out, and we began to entertain in this way night after night and, after I bought a home in the town, year after year.

    Meanwhile, back in Los Angeles, I had a patio built, including an outdoor fireplace to cook in and a wisteria-covered pergola under which I put a long dining table. And I began to entertain not just in Italy in the summertime, but on a year-round basis. Over the last fifteen years, I have found myself saying countless times, “Let’s have it at my house.” I’ve hosted regular weeknight get-togethers with close friends, baby showers for Mozza staff members, birthday parties, charity events, and even a couple of weddings.

    This book is a collection of recipes that reflects the style I developed in cooking those meals. There are no intricately plated dishes here and nothing that needs to be served piping hot. Antipasti, whether Marinated Olives with Fresh Pecorino, Pickled Vegetables, or Pimento Cheese with Celery Sticks, can be put out while you’re assembling the rest of the meal. Salads, built of sturdy lettuces such as radicchio and other chicories, Little Gem, and hearts of romaine that don’t wilt quickly, are piled high in large, wide-mouthed bowls. The simple preparations of side dishes such as Slow-Roasted Roma Tomatoes with Garlic and Thyme, Corn on the Cob with Chile Butter, Roasted Carrots with Chickpeas and Cumin, and Roasted Asparagus with Herb Vinaigrette take advantage of the natural flavor of seasonal vegetables. And main dishes are kept simple, either marinated and grilled, as is the case with Grilled Lamb Shoulder Chops with Mint Yogurt Sauce and Sicilian Swordfish Spiedini, or as with Dave’s Oven-Roasted Grouper with Spicy Tomato Marmalade and Tahini, and are cooked in the oven and served in the pans in which they were cooked.

    I’m not saying these are thirty-minute meals, because they’re not. Home cooking is often slow cooking. There is no shortcut to braising an oxtail, but it can be done in advance, and the oven does all the work for you while you’re making side dishes or taking a shower. Eggplant Lasagne, made with store-bought noodles, can be assembled hours ahead and put in the oven just in time for dinner. And all of the desserts can be made many hours prior to serving time. Or maybe not at all. When I don’t have time to prepare dessert, I pass ice cream bars around after dinner, or toss a selection of artisan candy bars into the center of the table. Friends break them up and share. It’s like breaking bread—only sweeter. That, for me, is what entertaining is all about.

    The book is organized by meals; for each, I give one main dish and a selection of antipasti, side dishes, and salads to choose from to go with the main dish. Additionally, I give suggestions under the heading “Other Menu Options” for recipes that appear elsewhere in the book but would complement the meal. My idea in building the book this way isn’t that you make everything listed (which would be impossible or at least insane in some instances), but that you use the items listed as a guideline for what to serve with this main dish. These are flavors and textures that go well together and that wouldn’t offend me if I saw them all on one plate. I’m not a fan of potlucks for that very reason: people bring all kinds of things that don’t necessarily go with one another but that end up touching each other on guests’ plates. I do understand the appeal of the potluck in terms of easing the load for the host or hostess. If you have a friend or family member who enjoys cooking or baking and really wants to contribute, have them choose from the recipes listed under the main dish you’re making.

    Desserts are in their own chapter. For each dessert I suggest what main dishes I would serve it with, and there are a few cases in which I am specific about which dessert I recommend, such as Mexican Wedding Cookies with Sal’s Roasted Pork Shoulder. But with few exceptions, you could serve any dessert with any meal in the book.

    Because I really just love feeding crowds of people, working on the recipes in this book challenged me to think about how to optimize the guests’ experience. When I started out, my one requirement was that every dish should hold up on a buffet, which meant it had to taste good at room temperature, wouldn’t wilt after an hour, and also wouldn’t look terrible as guests started digging in. But as I got into the process of producing the book, all the while hosting dinners and parties offering the foods that I was including here, I went a step further: I began to think of creative ways that I could make the buffet table work to my advantage. I started putting a block of cheese and a grater alongside salads that called for grated cheese, such as the Whole Leaf Caesar Salad with Fried Parsley Leaves and Anchovy Croutons, so that guests could grate a fresh dusting of cheese on their own servings. Having the cheese and grater also makes it easy for me to freshen up the serving bowl with a snowdrift of cheese when I walk by. I knew I couldn’t put an arugula salad on my buffet table, because arugula wilts if you look at it sideways. But when I found myself wanting arugula alongside Prosciutto Mozzarella Parcels, I found a way to do it: I put out a bowl of arugula, along with bottles of olive oil and balsamic vinegar, and bowls of lemon and sea salt for guests to make their own arugula salads on their plates. In many instances, such as with Flattened Chicken Thighs with Charred Lemon Salsa Verde or Blistered Green Beans with Yogurt Dressing, I spoon or drizzle just enough sauce on the dish so guests understand where it goes, and serve the rest on the side. The desserts are left unsliced, presented with a knife so guests can cut the size serving they want. And the frostings for Spiced Carrot Cake with Molasses Cream Cheese Frosting and Devil’s Food Rings with Spiced White Mountain Frosting are served on the side. I think personalizing your food adds to your guests’ experience, and that’s what I am after when I entertain. I want to offer my friends and family not just great food, but a great experience. Because I can’t have all of you to my house, I hope you’ll enjoy the experience of cooking from this book—and, of course, I hope you’ll enjoy the food.

    How to Pull It Off

    I recently wrote a story for the Los Angeles Times revealing my biggest secret when it comes to entertaining: enlisting the help of your guests. When I have a party—whether it’s a huge fund-raising event or a dozen friends on a weeknight—I can say without a doubt: I never do it alone. For one, I couldn’t do it alone. The kind of food I cook involves some effort. There are vinaigrettes to whisk, vegetables to roast, salads to toss. Even the simplest appetizer, guacamole and chips, needs somebody to put those two things in bowls and carry them to the table. And that’s just the food. Wine bottles need to be opened, bags of ice dumped into the beverage tub, the grill needs to be lit, the table needs to be set. Then there are the candles, the music, the sweeping of the patio…If I had to do it all myself, I probably wouldn’t find myself saying, “Let’s have it at my house,” as often as I do. But the other, more important reason to enlist help is that it’s so much more fun to prepare a meal with friends.

    In my mother’s day, the hostess would never have asked her friends to pitch in. My mother, for instance, despite the fact that she worked as a television writer while raising two children, would have wanted to take care of every last detail. When guests arrived, it wasn’t, “Here, put this on the table,” as I am known to do. My mother (and probably every other woman of her generation) wanted her guests to be impressed, to wonder how she did it. And these were her friends! Thankfully, times have changed. There is no illusion or façade, at least not in my world. My friends all know how much effort it takes to host a meal, large or small, and when we’re not hosting, we want to help the one who is.

    I do want to emphasize that I’m a nice “boss.” When my volunteer help comes, I always offer them a glass of wine, and our own little party starts while we pile side dishes onto platters and look for just the right serving utensils to go with them.

    Cooking from This Book

    Each of these chapters is built around a main dish, with a list of side dishes and condiments to serve with it. In some chapters, the list includes more options than you may want to make. In addition to the items listed in the menus is a list of “Other Menu Options.” These are dishes that exist elsewhere in the book but that go well with the main dish in the chapter. Pick from these lists to create a menu that works for you, based on what you feel like cooking and what is in season.

    All of the recipes in this book make enough for six or more. I figure if you are cooking for others, the least number you could be is four. You’re probably six, and if you’re anything like me, the minute you decide to have people over, you start thinking of who you want to invit

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