Joy of Cooking by Irma S. Rombauer [kindle online]


  • Full Title : Joy of Cooking: All About Pies and Tarts (Joy of Cooking All About Series)
  • Autor: Irma S. Rombauer
  • Print Length: 128 pages
  • Publisher: Scribner; F First Edition Used edition
  • Publication Date: August 27, 2002
  • Language: English
  • ISBN-10: 074322518X
  • ISBN-13: 978-0743225182
  • Download File Format: pdf

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Offers recipes and how-to guidelines for every major variety, including fruit, single-crust, cream, chiffon, custard, chocolate, and savory pies and tarts, in a collection complemented by easy crust preparation instructions. 50,000 first printing.

 

From Publishers Weekly

Part of Scribner’s “All About” sequence, adapted from the long-running Joy of Cooking cookbook series, this volume delivers everything a would-be baker might want to learn about how to make a covered fruit pie, a single-crust fruit pie, a cream or chiffon pie or a savory pie or tart. The desserts are uniformly tempting-who could resist a Concord Grape Pie or a Chocolate-Glazed Caramel Tart?-and they’re complemented with luscious-looking photographs. The recipes themselves are easy to follow and supported by a detailed first chapter that explains the rudiments of choosing and baking crusts. While most of the pies and tarts included are firmly traditional (you’ll find no kiwis or bitter oranges in this cookbook), the recipes sound so delicious, and the instructions are so lucid and careful, that even a baking neophyte will be encouraged to give pies a try.
Copyright 2002 Reed Business Information, Inc.

From Library Journal

This latest batch of spin-off cookbooks from the All New All Purpose Joy of Cooking includes one on a topic that was not covered in that revision. The chapter on canning and preserving, much of which was written by cookbook author Sylvia Thompson, unfortunately didn’t make it into the 1997 revision because of space limitations, so it’s nice to have it appear as its own book. Like the other “All About” titles, and unlike the big Joy, these all include color photographs, as well as additional material not included in the revision. Canning & Preserving is recommended for all collections on the topic; the other titles are for most libraries.
Copyright 2002 Reed Business Information, Inc.

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at every meal.

2. Eat less

It’s great to feel light when you go to bed and to wake up hungry for breakfast. Consider serving smaller portions of whatever food you like, made with real, quality ingredients. But if what you want is a huge quantity of something to dig into, make it vegetables. Or a vegetable. It takes a lot of vegetables to add up to a lot of calories.

3. Have breakfast or lunch for supper

Mix it up. A fried egg sandwich, ricotta pancakes, mushrooms over toast, or a handheld sandwich—dishes like these can assume a nontaxing role in the evening. Save the lasagne for another time.

4. Create leftovers as you cook

Leftovers can be your best friend and they can save a trip to the store. It’s easy to turn leftover lentils or polenta into a supper dish. Ratatouille can be used in at least four different ways, and leftover vegetable stews are usually delicious over toast the next day. Extra crêpes or crêpe batter can make a meal in a jiffy. And that extra portion from last night’s supper can be a good lunch for the person working at home as well as the one going to the office.

5. Consider the dishes you use

I love dishes, particularly the folk-art dishes that are featured in the pictures in all my books. I would sooner buy a plate than a sweater. To me dishes are as important as the food that goes on them because of the way they flatter food and delight the eye. Like the foods we cook, they are made by hand. Gorgeous terra-cotta gratin dishes, inexpensive Spanish cazuelas just large enough to hold a single portion of something, ramekins, soup plates with rims—all of these artful shapes provide ways to bring focus and style to what you’ve made, even if it’s just an egg baked on a bed of potatoes.

6. Know a few dishes well

Whatever you learn how to make well, you can make quickly and without a second thought. We all caught on about pasta. Ragouts are my main dish—I can make them with my eyes closed and without a plan. Gratins or savory pies might be yours. When we know a certain type of dish or two well, cooking becomes much easier and less stressful. It makes our cooking flow with ease.

7. Become passionate

One good reason for becoming passionate about food is that you’ll always have a plan in mind for something you want to cook. You know when you have batter in the fridge for those buckwheat crêpes, a dozen eggs from the farmers’ market, some fabulous tomatoes, or maybe a leftover potato skillet pie to brown. Having a river of ingredients moving through your kitchen and ideas to match makes coming up with supper easy and enjoyable.

8. Eat locally and seasonally

As always, I encourage you to eat seasonally and shop from your farmers’ market. This is where you’ll find the best food there is anywhere, so there’s less you have to do to make it taste good. It’s good already. And, of course, there are all the other pleasures that come with eating locally—being part of your community, doing something important for yourself and your region, being informed about where your food comes from, and experiencing joy in doing so.

9. Cook with others

It is so much more fun when it’s not just you in the kitchen, unless, of course, you want to control it. If you’re a parent, teach your kids how to use a knife and become masters at making a vinaigrette or a good salad. I know many young girls who love to make crêpes (it was the first food I learned to cook as well). Why not harness that interest in the service of supper? It’s more fun for everyone this way.

10. Relax about weights and measures

Does your tofu weigh 19 ounces rather than 16? Is one can of coconut milk 13.5 ounces and another 16 ounces? Does it matter? It doesn’t, not in these informal recipes. Sometimes products vary, especially if you buy them in Asian or Latin markets where weights and measures aren’t consistent with what’s in supermarkets. My advice is to use what you have regardless of the size—the whole block of tofu, the entire can of coconut milk—and don’t worry. It’s far more useful to have a leftover cooked dish than a little piece of tofu floating in water or a bit of coconut milk hidden in the back of the refrigerator. You know that they’ll just end up getting thrown out.

And when it comes to cooking times, there’s no absolute for all of our stoves, pots and pans, flames and heat levels—even altitudes vary. The “low” on my new stove is the equivalent of “medium” on my former one. A heavy cast-iron pan takes longer to heat, but holds its heat longer than a thin aluminum pan. Ultimately it’s our eyes and hands and nose that tell us when something should be turned over or to raise or lower the heat.

11. When possible, choose organic foods

There’s every reason to choose organic foods—for their flavor, for your health, and for the health of the environment. As long as the standards remain in place—and they are unfortunately threatened on a regular basis—the label organic means that your food is produced in a beneficial manner and that it’s free from pesticides, herbicides, and genetically modified organisms. We already know that pesticides aren’t good for us, wildlife, the water supply, or much else, and that GMOs are not without problems. Choosing organic is, for me, choosing health and vitality, and often flavor. The cost is more, but so is the cost of illness. We are fortunate that today there are organic options available for all kinds of foods.

12. Become an artisan in your kitchen

Increasingly, we have the opportunity to buy foods that are imbued with the mark of a person’s skill and passion. Craft is evident in farmstead cheeses, hearth breads, beautifully grown fruits and vegetables, chocolates, and many other foods. When we leave the imprint of our hands on our meals, we also become craftsmen. Even in preparing supper, we can make something that’s our own and no one else’s. It is a gift to our families and friends to do this, something to take pride and joy in doing.

13. The baker’s dozen

The last thing is this: If you want to make the side dishes that have been suggested with each recipe, you can find them in my books Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone and Local Flavors: Cooking and Eating from America’s Farmers’ Markets. When it comes to supper, there’s no need to reinvent the wheel, after all. Familiarity is a delight.

1

savory pies and gratins

if I added up all the savory pies and gratins I’ve made in my life, they’d comprise a book in themselves. There’s an instant appeal and sense of ease about both of these dishes. In my experience, everyone likes pie no matter what’s in the crust. As for fragrant gratins, bubbling under their “crust” of bread crumbs, they are simply irresistible.

A crust makes a pie a more formal and special dish, but if you’re not at ease whipping one out—it really is very easy with some practice—know that I’ve used the word pie very loosely. Some crusts are bread crumbs patted into the dish, and others don’t have a crust at all. For the Feta and Ricotta Cheese Pie, it’s the rim of the black cast-iron skillet, rather than pie dough, that frames the ingredients. But when you do make the dough given here, note that it is made with less fat than most and with a mixture of whole wheat pastry and all-purpose flour, making it a little crisper and a lot tastier than the usual all-butter white-flour crust.

To make gratins or these shallow pies or tarts a main supper dish, plan to serve a big wedge or a quarter of a 9-inch pie. I like both pies and gratins served with a salad or sautéed greens right on the same plate and a separate vegetable course or soup to start. Serve rich gratins with lighter foods such as crudités for appetizers, thin soups for starters, and the aforementioned greens. In the case of nonstarchy gratins, such as the eggplant gratins, rice, quinoa, and other grains just drink up their good juices.

Tart Shell

MAKES ONE 9-INCH TART SHELL

A lower-fat version of the usual buttery crust, this tart shell is a bit crisper than the traditional one. Whole wheat pastry flour gives the dough more substance and flavor than white flour.

½ cup whole wheat pastry flour

½ cup plus 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour

⅜ teaspoon sea salt

5 tablespoons cold butter, cut into chunks

3 tablespoons sour cream, reduced-fat if you like

ice water

1. Combine the flours and salt in a food processor.

2. Add the butter and pulse to form coarse crumbs, then add the sour cream and pulse again. Dribble in just enough ice water, about 1 tablespoon, to make damp-looking crumbs, working as briefly as possible. Turn the dough out onto a board, gather into a ball, then shape into a disk. Refrigerate for 15 to 30 minutes.

3. Roll the chilled dough into a 10-inch circle, drape it over the rolling pin, then lay it over the tart pan. Gently settle the dough into the pan. Using your fingertips, press the dough against the sides so that they are about ¼ inch thick. Freeze for at least 15 minutes or until ready to prebake. Formed tart shells, well wrapped in foil, can be frozen for a week before using.

to prebake

Preheat the oven to 425°F. Place the frozen tart shell on a sheet pan and bake in the center of the oven until lightly colored and set, about 20 minutes. Check a few times during the baking and prick any swollen spots with the sharp tip of a knife.

Onion and Rosemary Tart

with fromage blanc

SERVES 4

Fromage blanc is nonfat cheese similar in texture to sour cream and crème fraîche. It lacks the unctuousness of its full-fat cousins, but when baked it’s perfectly creamy and smooth.

I like this tart with a robust vegetable, such as roasted artichokes or mushrooms sautéed with spinach and seasoned with lots of pepper. For wine, a bistro-style red such as a Cabernet Franc from France’s Loire Valley goes nicely with these straightforward flavors.

2 teaspoons butter or olive oil

4 small or 3 medium onions, quartered and

thinly sliced crosswise, at least 4 cups

sea salt and freshly ground pepper

2 teaspoons finely chopped rosemary

1 9-inch tart shell

2 eggs

1 cup fromage blanc

1. Preheat the oven to 425°F. Melt the butter in a Dutch oven and add the onions. Season with ½ teaspoon salt, give a stir, cover the pan, and cook slowly until soft and pale gold, about 30 minutes. Add the rosemary, then season with pepper and taste, adding more salt if needed.

2. While the onions are cooking, prepare and prebake the tart shell. Then reduce the heat to 350°F.

3. Whisk the eggs with the fromage blanc, ⅜ teaspoon salt, and a little pepper. Stir in the onions, then pour the mixture into the shell. Bake until golden and nearly firm, about 35 minutes. Let rest for 5 minutes, then remove it from the tart pan, set it on a platter, and serve.

Unless you have a tart shell ready, begin by cooking the onions, then make, press, and freeze the shell while they’re cooking. Once you’ve prebaked the tart shell, reduce the oven heat, fill the shell, and put it in the oven about 45 minutes before you’re ready to eat. This tart is best eaten warm.

Variation with scallions

Scallions take far less time to cook than onions and make a more delicate tart, one that’s just right for spring. You’ll want 4 bunches of scallions, including a few inches of their greens, thinly sliced. Cook them in the butter until softened, 4 to 5 minutes. Use a spring herb in this version—chervil, tarragon, the first few basil leaves—and serve the tart with asparagus, the first peas, or leeks simmered in wine.

Dried Porcini and Fresh Mushroom Tart

Dried Porcini

and fresh mushroom tart

SERVES 4

This succulent mix of mushrooms may tempt you to forget the pastry and just spoon them over some toast—an excellent idea, in fact. But if you want a dish that has more style, make a tart. It will look glorious, and with the full ounce of dried mushrooms it will be intensely mushroomy.

While rich in flavor, this is not a heavy dish, so go ahead and include a soup (a roasted red pepper soup would make a lively start), a side dish (think of roasted carrots with garlic and thyme or braised black kale), and a sprightly green salad. A glass of Bandol rosé is the perfect wine.

1 ounce (1 cup) dried porcini mushrooms

½ cup dry white wine or dry sherry

1 9-inch tart shell

1 tablespoon olive oil or a mixture of butter

and oil, plus a little oil to finish

1 large white onion, finely diced

½ pound white or brown mushrooms, sliced ¼ inch thick or less

½ pound (3 small) portobello or other large mushrooms, sliced ¼ inch thick (see note)

sea salt and freshly ground pepper

1 heaping teaspoon tomato paste

1 parsley sprig and a few thyme or marjoram sprigs, minced

1 egg

⅔ cup half-and-half, cream, or Mushroom Stock

1. Preheat the oven to 425°F. Put the porcini in a saucepan with the wine and ½ cup water. Bring to a boil, then turn off the heat, cover, and set aside for 30 minutes. Once the porcini are tender, pour the liquid through a fine strainer into a bowl, then chop the mushrooms into ½-inch or smaller pieces. Reserve the soaking water.

2. Meanwhile, prepare and freeze the tart shell.

3. Heat the oil in a wide skillet. Add the onion and cook over medium-high heat, stirring frequently, until it starts to color, about 5 minutes.

4. Add the fresh mushrooms. Raise the heat to high, season with 1 teaspoon salt, and cook, tossing occasionally, until they start to color, about 10 minutes. Stir in the tomato paste and a few tablespoons of the mushroom-soaking liquid, then add the porcini and continue cooking, adding more mushroom liquid in small amounts, until the mushrooms are tender and glazed, about 15 minutes. Add half the herbs, then taste for salt and season with pepper.

5. While the mushrooms are cooking, prebake the tart shell.

6. Beat the egg with the half-and-half. Slide the mushrooms into the prebaked tart shell and pour the custard over. Bake until the custard is set, 25 to 30 minutes. When done, sprinkle the remaining herbs over the top and dab a few drops of oil on the mushrooms to make them shine.

Turn on the oven, get the dried mushrooms soaking, then use that window of time to prepare the tart shell (unless you have one ready). and slice the onion and mushrooms. Bake the tart shell while the mushrooms are cooking. This tart can be served hot, warm, or at room temperature.

Note: If you’re using portobellos, remove the gills with a spoon before cooking, or the dish will be very dark.

Two Eggplant Tarts

with tomatoes, olives, and goat cheese

SERVES 4

These two tarts use the same ingredients, but with very different effect. In the first, roasted eggplant is beaten into the custard, over which the tomatoes form a pretty coverlet. In the second, the eggplant is sliced and broiled, then mixed with the tomatoes, making a more rustic tart. Both are good to keep in mind when an assortment of tomatoes, such as Sun Gold, Yellow Pear, and Sweet 100, are available—they look and taste gorgeous—and both versions make a fine dinner on a hot night.

I might start this meal with a zucchini and basil soup, include a salad on the plate, and end with a platter of fresh figs and raspberries, possibly accompanied by a Muscat sabayon. A Rhône-style rosé from California’s south-central coast, such as an Ojai Vin Gris, would be good with all the elements in these tarts.

Smooth Roasted Eggplant and Tomato Tart

Ideally, you might roast the eggplant over the coals the night before if you’re grilling, which adds a rich smoky flavor. Once roasted, the eggplant can wait for several days.

1 9-inch tart shell

2 medium eggplants, about 1 pound each

sea salt and freshly ground pepper

1 heaping tablespoon finely slivered basil leaves, plus a few leaves for garnish

2 heaping tablespoons pitted Niçoise olives, finely chopped

1 egg

½ cup half-and-half, cream, or crème fraîche

3 to 4 ounces crumbled goat cheese

2 cups mixed small tomatoes, halved crosswise

olive oil for drizzling

1. Preheat the oven to 425°F. Make and prebake the tart shell. Reduce the heat to 400°F.

2. Pierce the eggplants in several places, then put them on a sheet pan and bake until they’re collapsed, about 40 minutes, or roast them over hot coals until collapsed. Set them in a colander for 15 minutes to drain, then scrape the flesh out of the skin, put it in a bowl, and mash coarsely with ½ teaspoon salt. Add the basil and olives and season with pepper. Beat the egg with the half-and-half and goat cheese and whisk it into the eggplant.

3. Pour the custard into the tart shell. Cover with tomatoes, cut sides up. Drizzle with olive oil and bake until the custard is set, about 30 minutes. Sliver the reserved basil leaves and scatter them over the hot surface. Let the tart cool for at least 15 minutes or serve at room temperature.

Rustic Eggplant and Tomato Tart

For this tart, use 2 pounds narrow Japanese or Italian eggplants, a few tablespoons olive oil, and an additional ½ cup half-and-half.

Make and prebake the tart shell, as in the preceding recipe. Preheat the broiler. Brush a sheet pan lightly with olive oil.

1. Remove strips of the eggplant skin, leaving a few thin bands. Slice diagonally about ⅜ inch thick and toss with 2 to 3 tablespoons olive oil. Place them on the oiled sheet pan in a single layer and broil until golden, 10 to 15 minutes if your broiler is hot. Turn and cook the second side, about 10 minutes. Transfer those that finish first to a bowl. When all are done, season with a few pinches of salt and some pepper.

2. Beat the egg in a small bowl with the half-and-half and goat cheese, leaving the cheese a little chunky.

3. Add the olives, basil, and most of the tomatoes to the eggplant and toss together. Put them in the tart shell and pour the custard over all. Tuck the remaining tomatoes here and there where they can be seen and bake until the custard is set, about 35 minutes. Serve warm or tepid.

In both versions the eggplant can be prepared (roasted or broiled), the custards whisked together, and the tart shells prebaked hours before completing the tarts.

Chard and Onion Torta

SERVES 4 GENEROUSLY

This is a slightly more formal variation on that perfumed Provençal frittata, trouchia, one of my favorite dishes. Here the trouchia gets a crust of bread crumbs, which not only spares you the trouble of making a dough but also eliminates ½ cup of butter. To my eyes, this makes it much more acceptable to use light cream for the liquid, which provides a more memorable texture. For chard, I prefer silver-stemmed over red because of the tendency for the red veins to bleed. However, the flavor is fine and if that’s what you have, then use it.

You might serve this with sautéed red peppers, simply cooked zucchini, or the chard stems cooked in olive oil. For wine, go with a Provençal rosé or a Spanish rosado from Rioja; or, if you prefer a red, try a lighter-style Côtes-du-Rhône.

2 tablespoons butter or olive oil, plus butter for the dish

2 slices bread, crusts removed, made into crumbs in a food processor

1 large onion, quartered and thinly sliced crosswise

2 pinches of saffron threads

¼ cup slivered basil leaves

1 teaspoon thyme leaves, chopped, or 2 pinches dried

2 big bunches of chard, leaves sliced from the stems and chopped into 1-inch pieces

sea salt and freshly ground pepper

2 garlic cloves, smashed in a mortar with a pinch of salt

1 cup grated Gruyère cheese

¼ cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese, plus a little for the top

3 eggs

1 cup light cream, milk, or Mushroom Stock

1. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Generously butter a baking di

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