[PDF | 23,49 Mb] Veggie Magazine – December 2018 – Download Magazine


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    Keywords

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    Contents

    Cover

    List of Recipes

    About the Book

    About the Author

    Title Page

    Dedication

    Introduction

    General Information

    Bibliography

    Index

    Acknowledgements

    Copyright

    List of Recipes

    Afternoon Tea Pudding

    Ale Cake with Golden Syrup Cream

    Almond and Celery Soup

    Angels on Horseback

    Apple and Blue Cheese Tart

    Apple Sauce

    Apricot and Almond Pudding

    Arbroath Smokie

    Arbroath Smokie and Cream Cheese Pâté

    Asparagus with Melted Butter or Hollandaise Sauce

    ‘Banana’ Roasts

    ‘Burnt’ Mushrooms with Shallots, Crunchy Bacon and Red Wine

    Baked Apples with Dates and Walnuts

    Baked Egg Custard Tart

    Baked Halibut with a Pumpkin Crust

    Baked Pork, Prune and Apple Meatballs

    Baked Raspberry Puddings

    Baked Rice Pudding

    Bakewell Tart Ice-cream

    Banana and Golden Syrup Loaf

    Basic Butter Sauce

    Basic Tuile Biscuits

    Basic Vinaigrette

    Basic White-wine or Champagne Fish Sauce

    Bitter Chocolate Sauce

    Blancmange

    Boiled and Baked Ham

    Boiled Bacon and Vegetable ‘Main-Course’ Soup

    Boiled Bacon with Pearl Barley and Lentils

    Boiled Brisket of Beef and Vegetable Stew

    Boiled Eggs

    Boiled Leg of Lamb with Caper Sauce

    Bolognese Sauce or Beef Fillet, Bacon, Chicken Liver and Red-wine Ragù

    Braised Beef Olives with Black Pudding, Button Onions and Mushrooms

    Braised Globe Artichokes

    Braised Oxtail

    Braised Split Peas

    Brandy Snap Biscuits

    Bread and Butter Pudding

    Bread and Butter Pudding Ice-cream

    Bread Sauce

    Breakfast Bacon

    Breakfast Mushrooms

    Breakfast Tomatoes

    Broad Beans

    Broccoli

    Bubble and Squeak

    Bubble and Squeak Artichokes with ‘Burnt’ Mushrooms

    Burnt Cream or Crème Brûlée

    Buttered Brussels Sprouts

    Buttered Spinach

    Cabbage

    Cabbage with Beansprouts and Onions

    Calves’ Liver Steak and Kidney, with Red-wine Carrots and Rosemary Butter

    Calves’ Liver Steak with Blue Cheese Dumplings and Blue Cheese Butter Sauce

    Candied Oranges

    Cauliflower Cheese with Crispy Parmesan Crumbs

    Cheddar and Pecan Cheese Biscuits

    Cheddar Apple Cake

    Cheddar-cheese Soup

    Cheese and Onion Courgettes

    Cheese Sauce (Sauce Mornay)

    Cherry tomatoes with peppered goat’s cheese

    Chestnuts

    Chicken Fillet ‘Steaks’ with Chestnut Mushrooms, Sage and Lemon Sauce

    Chicken Pot-roast with Carrots and Potatoes

    Chicken Stock

    Chips and French Fries

    Chocolate Treacle Sandwich

    Christmas Cake

    Christmas Pudding

    Christmas Pudding Fritters with Cranberry Ice-cream

    Christmas Pudding Scotch Pancakes

    Chunky Tomato Soup

    Cider-vinegar Dressing

    Classic Hollandaise Sauce

    Classic Porridge

    Classic Roast Potatoes

    Classic Scrambled Eggs

    Clear Ham Soup with Pea Pancakes

    Clotted Cream Ice-cream

    Coarse Pork Pâté

    Colcannon

    Cold Pickling

    Coriander Butter Sauce

    Corned Beef

    Cornish Pasty

    Court-bouillon

    Cranberry and Walnut Tart

    Creamed Cabbage and Bacon

    Creamed Parsnips

    Creamy Bubble and Squeak Soup with Crunchy Bacon

    Cucumber Sandwiches

    Cullen Skink

    Cumberland Apple Sauce

    Cumberland Sauce

    Cumberland Sausage

    Curly Kale

    Curried Eggs

    Curry Cream Sauce

    Curry Powder

    Custard Sauce or Crème Anglaise

    Dandelion and Bacon Salad

    Deep-fried Cod in Batter

    Devilled Kidneys

    Devilled Whitebait

    Devils on Horseback

    Egg and Bacon Salad

    Egg Sandwiches

    Faggots in Onion Gravy

    Fig Rolls

    Fillet of Venison Wellington

    Fish Stock

    Fish, Mussel and Leek Cider Pie

    Fresh Peas

    Fried Bread

    Frozen Orange and Espresso Mousse

    Frozen-pea Soup

    Gâteau Opéra

    Game Stew or Pie

    Game Stock

    Garam Masala

    Garlic Cream Potato Cakes

    Gingerbread Biscuits

    Golden Oatcakes

    Gooseberry Sherbet

    Gratin of Grated Turnips

    Green Beans and How to Cook Them

    Green Lemon Butter

    Green Pepper Butter

    Griddle Scones

    Grilled (or Pan-fried) Dover Sole with Lemon and Nut-brown Butter

    Grilled Baby Leeks

    Grilled Herrings with Braised Lentils

    Grilled Kippers

    Grilled Lamb with ‘Irish’ Cabbage and Mashed Potato Sauce

    Grilled Trout Fillets with Sautéd Lime Pickle Potatoes and Courgettes

    Gruyère Cheese, Leek and Mushroom Flan

    Haslet

    Hazelnut Tuiles

    Home-made Crumpets

    Home-made Haggis

    Home-made Malt Loaf

    Home-made Mincemeat and Mince Pies

    Home-made Pancakes

    Home-made Pork Pie

    Home-made Redcurrant Jelly

    Home-made Salad Cream

    Home-made Scones

    Home-made Tomato Ketchup

    Horseradish Sauce

    Hot Cross Buns

    Hot Pickling

    Iced Vanilla Parfait with Nutmeg Clotted Cream and Caramelized Apples

    Individual Roast Beef with Bitter Onions

    Irish Stew

    Jam Omelette

    Jam Roly-poly

    Jam Sandwiches

    Lancashire Hot-pot

    Lardy Cake

    Layered Steak and Onion Pudding

    Leek and Potato Broth

    Leeks with Prunes

    Lemon and Parsley Carrots

    Lemon and Thyme Dumplings

    Lemon and Vanilla Sponge Cake

    Lemon Syrup Loaf

    Lobster ‘Bisque’ Soup

    Lobster Casserole

    Lobster Omelette ‘Thermidor’

    Lobster or Shellfish Oil

    Macaroni, Artichoke and Mushroom Cheese Pie

    Mango Chutney

    Mashed Potatoes

    Mayonnaise

    Mayonnaise-based Cider Dressing

    Mini Toad in the Holes

    Mint Sauce

    Mussel, Leek and Tomato Casserole, with Spinach and a Warm Poached Egg

    Mustard Butter Sauce

    Nutmeg Ice-cream

    Nutty Apple Crumble

    Omelette Arnold Bennett

    One-piece Roast Pork with Caramelized Apple and Chestnut Brussels Sprouts

    Onion Gravy

    Orange Marmalade

    Pan-fried Cod with Carrots, Parsley and Over-cooked Bacon

    Pan-fried Fillet of Red Mullet with Seared Oranges and Spring Onions

    Pan-fried Red Mullet with a Tomato and Leek Soup

    Parkin

    Parsleyed Cod with Mustard Butter Sauce

    Parsnip Potato Cakes

    Peppered Mushrooms

    Piccalilli

    Pickled Damsons

    Pickled Limes

    Pickled Shallots or Onions

    Pieces of Braised Beef with Slowly Caramelized Onions and Turnip Purée

    Pigs’ Trotters Bourguignonne

    Plum or Damson Cheese

    Poached Eggs

    Pork Crackling and Scratchings

    Pork Sausages

    Port and Stilton Cheese Toasts

    Potato Cakes

    Prawn (or Lobster) Cocktail

    Preserved (Confit) Bacon

    Pressed Guinea Fowl Terrine with Shallots, Mushrooms and Bacon

    Pressed Ox Tongue

    Pressed Tomato Cake with Peppered Goat’s Cheese

    Queen of Puddings

    Quick Puff or Flaky Pastry

    Rabbit Leg Casserole with Marjoram and Mustard

    Rabbit, Pork and Cider Potato Pie

    Rack on Black

    Radish and French Bean Salad with Seared Scallops

    Raspberry Cranachan

    Red-wine Sauce

    Rhubarb and Apple Charlotte

    Rhubarb Tart

    Rich Pigeon Faggot on a Potato Cake with Mustard Cabbage

    Rich Warm Chocolate Cake

    Roast Chicken Legs with Sea Salt and Thyme

    Roast Chicken Sandwich

    Roast Chicken with Liver-thickened Gravy

    Roast Fillets of Hare Wrapped in Ham, with Port and Walnuts

    Roast Grouse

    Roast Guinness Lamb

    Roast Leg of Lamb

    Roast Loin of Pork with an Apricot and Sage Stuffing

    Roast Mushroom and Leek Shepherd’s Pie

    Roast Parsnip Soup, Glazed with Parmesan and Chive Cream

    Roast Partridges with Their Own Toasts and Wild Mushrooms

    Roast Pheasant with Bacon-braised Barley and a Whisky Cream Sauce

    Roast Rib of Beef

    Roasted Figs with Brown Sugar Parfait

    Roasted Parsnips

    Rowan Jelly

    Saffron Bread

    Sage Broad Beans with Bacon and Tomato

    Sage Fritters

    Sally Lunn Cake or Bread

    Salmon Fish Cakes

    Sardine and Tomato Toasts

    Sausage Rolls

    Sausagemeat Loaf

    Sautéd Potatoes

    Sautéd Sea-salt Potatoes

    Scallops with Grilled Black Pudding à I’orange

    Scotch Eggs

    Scotch Woodcock

    Scottish Fruit Tart with Whisky

    Seared, Cured Salmon Cutlets with Leeks, Bacon and a Cider-vinegar Dressing

    Sesame Seed and Orange Tuiles

    Shepherd’s Pie Fritters

    Shepherd’s Pie or Cottage Pie

    Sherry Trifle

    Shortbread Biscuits

    Shortcrust Pastry and Sweet Shortcrust Pastry

    Simnel Cake

    Simple Hollandaise Sauce

    Slow-honey-roast Belly of Pork

    Slow-honey-roast Duck

    Slow-roast Shoulder of Pork with Pearl Barley and Sage ‘Stuffing’

    Smoked Eel Kedgeree

    Smoked Haddock

    Smoked Haddock and Welsh Rarebit Tartlets

    Smoked Haddock with Welsh Rarebit

    Smoked Salmon Rolls

    Smoked Salmon Terrine with Warm Potato Salad

    Soft Herring Roes on Caper Toasts

    Soused Mackerel

    Spicy Scrambled Eggs

    Spicy Smoked Haddock and Saffron Soup

    Spicy Tomato and Mint Relish

    Spinach Dumplings

    Spotted Dick

    Steak and ‘Kidney Pie’

    Steak and Kidney Pudding

    Steak and Oyster Pie

    Steamed and Braised Mallard with a Parsnip Tart

    Steamed Halibut and Cabbage with a Salmon Gravadlax Sauce

    Steamed Leek and Cheddar-cheese Pudding

    Steamed Lemon Sponge with Easy Lemon Sauce

    Steamed Slice of Smoked Salmon on a Potato Cake, with Seared Lemons and a Caper Dressing

    Steamed Turbot on Cabbage with ‘Truffle’ Sauce

    Steamed Upside-down Blackberry and Apple Pudding

    Stewed Prunes

    Stewed Red-wine Beef with Anchovy Scones

    Sticky Toffee Apple Pudding

    Sticky Toffee Pudding Ice-cream

    Stilton and Red-onion Salad with Peppered Beef Fillet

    Stilton and Sesame Seed Biscuits

    Strawberry Cheesecake Swiss Roll

    Strawberry Jam

    Stuffed Herrings with Apples and Tarragon

    Suet Pastry

    Sunday Lunch Roast

    Summer Pudding

    Syllabub

    Tartar Sauce

    The Classic Steak and Kidney Pie

    The Great British Fried Egg

    The Great British Omelette

    Toad in the Hole

    Traditional Roast Turkey with Sage, Lemon and Chestnut Stuffing and all the Trimmings

    Tuile Biscuits

    Twelfth Night Cake

    Variation: Whisky Scotch Eggs

    Veal or Beef Stock or Jus

    Vegetable Stock

    Vegetarian Cheese and Onion ‘Sausage’ Rolls

    Vegetarian Scotch Broth

    Warm Port and Fig Broth with Cream Cheese Ice-cream

    Warm Spiced Pineapple Cakes

    Watercress and Cream Cheese Sandwiches

    Wayne’s Porridge

    Welsh Rarebit

    White Chocolate Coffee Ice-cream

    White Lamb Stew

    White Pudding

    White Sauce

    Whole Roast Sea Bass

    Yorkshire Pudding

    About the Book

    The indomitable Gary Rhodes is back with his most ambitious collection of recipes yet. Famed for his mouth-watering variations on traditional British favourites, Gary sets out on a quest to modernise and enhance many classic dishes, updating them for the new millennium with a host of new and exciting ideas. Recipes will include dazzling new versions of such favourites as Steak and Kidney Pie, Prawn Cocktail, and Cauliflower Cheese, as well as new dishes which take their inspiration from the best traditions of British food, such as Roast Parsnip Soup glazed with Parmesan and Chive Cream, Seared Cured Salmon Cutlets with Leeks, Bacon and a Cider Vinegar Dressing, and Chicken Fillet Steaks with Chestnut Mushrooms, Sage and Lemon Sauce. As ever, Gary lives up to his reputation for creating delectable cakes and desserts with sensational ideas such as Chocolate Treacle Sandwich, Cranberry and Walnut Tart, and Iced Vanilla Parfait with Nutmeg Clotted Cream and Caramelised Apples. In a series of special features spread through the book, Gary looks at the social and culinary traditions that have shaped British food. Features include such institutions as: The Great British Breakfast, Afternoon Tea, and Christmas.

    About the Author

    Gary Rhodes is one of Britain’s best-loved chefs. He has numerous awards to his name, including the prestigious CATEY Special Award, the catering industry’s equivalent to an Oscar, for helping to revive British cookery and for his total dedication to the industry. The new presenter on BBC’s long-running Masterchef series, Gary has also presented seven other television series. He has written nine cookery books as well, including, most recently, the bestselling At the Table. Gary runs two Michelin-starred restaurants in London, city rhodes and Rhodes in the Square, and two brasseries, Rhodes & Co, in Manchester and Edinburgh.

    DEDICATION

    British cookery has gone through many changes, with different approaches to ingredients resulting in varied tastes and styles. Twenty-five years ago, the UK had a poor reputation throughout the culinary world and little respect. But then an innovative influence, nouvelle cuisine, burst onto the scene, affecting restaurants and home kitchens alike. We did not fully understand its style, but it gave us light at the end of the tunnel, inspiring us to find our place in the world of culinary excellence.

    It turned out to be a long journey, but we did not lose direction. Two brothers were responsible for this, showing us that classical methods and long-held traditions are the bedrock of new ideas. They showed how to work with tastes, not overwork them, creating complements rather than conflicts.

    The brothers have an aura about them: they have given me nothing but inspiration, and continue to do so. I would like to dedicate New British Classics to the Roux brothers, Albert and Michel, who, for me, are the godfathers of the culinary world.

    Thank you.

    ‘The discovery of a new dish is more beneficial to humanity than the discovery of a new star.’

    Brillat Savarin

    Introduction

    NEW BRITISH CLASSICS is a book of culinary stories and recipes feeding us with information of the past, carrying many flavours that have survived, with many others re-born. British cookery, as most of you know, is a long-held passion of mine. While other cuisines have had a large influence on its development, its worldwide culinary reputation has always been less esteemed than that of France and Italy. I have never quite understood how and why this was until I started to research this book. Yes, I had heard various views and held many of my own, but the origins and progress of cookery in the UK is more complicated and fascinating than one imagines, and deserves exploration. In each chapter I have outlined the history of the recipes included. I have also interspersed the chapters with features on ingredients, foods and food occasions (afternoon tea, for instance) that I think are particularly, sometimes even uniquely, British.

    So, how did the history of cooking start? The first few lines from ‘The Invention of Cuisine’ by Carol Musk set the scene.

    Imagine a thin woman

    before bread was invented,

    playing a harp of wheat in the field.

    There is a stone, and behind her

    the bones of the last killed,

    The black bird on her shoulder

    That a century later

    Will fly with trained and murderous intent.

    They are not very hungry

    because cuisine has not yet been invented.

    nor has falconry,

    nor the science of imagination.

    All they have is the pure impulse to eat.

    Out of the need to eat for survival came the instinct to put foodstuffs together and cook them for variety and taste – an impulse that developed in most countries at the same time.

    The principal characteristic of British culinary tradition is the number of influences it has absorbed over the centuries. As a group of islands to the side of a great continental mass, Britain has always been open to invasion. The invaders came, bringing with them their foods and cooking techniques. The Romans were perhaps of the greatest significance, and during their 400 years of occupation, they introduced many ingredients and ideas to an essentially simple cooking style. Many vegetables, fruits and meats that we consider British-born were actually brought in by the Romans – from pheasants, guinea fowl and deer to figs, walnuts, chestnuts, parsley, mint, chervil, onions, leeks, garlic and many others. Also introduced were two vegetables I have always considered to be purely British: cabbage and turnips.

    The Saxons, Angles and Vikings were also influential, as were the Normans after 1066. These ‘men of the North’ – Normandy was itself originally a Viking stronghold – not only brought in ideas from France, and from their own heritage, but from southern Europe too. Norman forces went on to conquer parts of southern Europe, in particular Sicily, which had been strongly influenced by Arab invaders, and food traditions from there were to filter through to northern Europe. Medieval food in England was rich in many ways that were as much Middle Eastern as northern European, in its use of dried fruits, nuts such as almonds, and a multitude of spices. Cane sugar was another introduction, brought back to England by soldiers returning from the Crusades. So rare and expensive were the blocks of refined or brown sugar that they were looked upon as a sweet spice and kept under tight lock and key.

    Food for the rich can’t have been boring during and after the Middle Ages, although the many fish days forced on the population by the Church must have made salt fish (most people did not have access to fresh) less than welcome. For ordinary people this simply meant salted and pickled fish, but for the rich there were many more types of seafood readily available – from basics such as plaice, haddock, herring and mackerel to the more extravagant oysters, whales, sturgeon, crabs, lobsters and even seals.

    It is said that a plainer feel to British food than that of the medieval style started to creep in during the years of the Commonwealth (1649–60), when the Puritans so disapproved of the use of culinary spices, thinking they led to intemperance and lasciviousness, that they even tried to ban Christmas! I think that British food has always been plain, but not dull, to a greater extent than is often thought, because the majority of the population, denied access to expensive imported fruits, nuts and spices, cooked and ate very simply. The traditions of the yeoman’s and peasant’s table are as important in our culinary heritage as those of the aristocracy. Moreover, the good climate and agriculture, in England at any rate, ensured adequate grain supplies and lush pastures and thus produced good-quality meats. So, basically, for those who could afford meat, there was no need to do anything more fancy to a piece of beef than roast it. The majority of people liked foods to taste of what they were, with ‘the taste of the fire’, and didn’t favour rich complementary sauces or tricksy combinations of foods as the French might. However, then as now, sharp and piquant garnish sauces, such as mint or horseradish, were much favoured.

    Following the great world explorations of the sixteenth century, many foods were introduced to Britain from the New World, among them turkeys, tomatoes, sweet peppers, chillies and vanilla (as well as tobacco). The one that was to have the most significance, though, was the potato, which did not take long to become a dietary staple in the British Isles, particularly in Ireland.

    The increasing industrialization of the country from the eighteenth century onwards, and enclosures of land, meant that many people were displaced and rural and culinary traditions began to be eroded. Those who had to seek work in the gradually expanding towns became cut off from their former ways of cooking and eating. Food, once again, became simpler. Eating took second place to work in daily life, playing a smaller part in the family budget and was of little general interest. It was at this time that cookshops became part of the culinary culture, offering some of the dishes that most characterize British cooking to many – things such as eels and mash, pies and mash and, one of the most classic, fish and chips. With the breakdown of the rural communities, some traditions were lost and others replaced with outside influences among those who had moved to the cities – notably French cuisine, which dominated ‘refined’ British cooking in restaurants and wealthy private houses in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries. These dual culinary styles continued until the First and Second World Wars, when food for pleasure became difficult as rations were

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