Pioneer Recipes by Douglas M. Dubrish, azw3, B001AS94K8


  • Full Title : Pioneer Recipes: Historical Favorites from the 1800’s
  • Autor: Douglas M. Dubrish
  • Print Length: 63 pages
  • Publisher: www.hawkeyestradingpost.com; 3 edition
  • Publication Date: November 23, 1988
  • Language: English
  • ISBN-10: B001AS94K8
  • ISBN-13: 
  • Download File Format: azw3

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The heritage of our pioneering men and women live on in each and every one of us. This ebook is a useful reminder of foods that nourished our ancestors. Put it on your laptop or Kindle for your kitchen use! Comfort foods include 5 star Potato Pancakes – Homemade Biscuits and Gravy – and how to make "perfect pie crusts" just like grandma did. Because it’s grandma’s secret recipe! Bread – Cakes – Crusts – Potato Pancakes – Gravies – Soups and more! The homemade bread recipes can’t be beat! Can you smell that great aroma of homemade bread baking in your own oven? Seriously, you can’t fail with these bread recipes! Expect people to say, "Wow, is that fresh bread I smell?"

 

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Keywords

vegan lifestyle, beer making supplies, how to lose weight in 2 weeks, international food market, thailand cuisine,
quick easy recipes, weight loss spa, mini bbq, baked steak recipe, gluten free naan, 225ml 8fl oz 1 cup 1 cup

300ml 10fl oz/½ pint ½ pint 1¼ cups

450ml 16fl oz 2 cups 2 cups/1 pint

600ml 20fl oz/1 pint 1 pint 2½ cups

1 litre 35fl oz/1¾ pints 1¾ pints 1 quart

APPROXIMATE WEIGHT CONVERSIONS

• All the recipes in this book list both metric and imperial measurements. Conversions are approximate and have been rounded up or down. Follow one set of measurements only; do not mix the two.

• Cup measurements, which are used in Australia and America, have not been listed here as they vary from ingredient to ingredient. Kitchen scales should be used to measure dry/solid ingredients.

OVEN TEMPERATURES

GAS °C °C FAN °F OVEN TEMP.

¼ 110 90 225 Very cool

½ 120 100 250 Very cool

1 140 120 275 Cool or slow

2 150 130 300 Cool or slow

3 160 140 325 Warm

4 180 160 350 Moderate

5 190 170 375 Moderately hot

6 200 180 400 Fairly hot

7 220 200 425 Hot

8 230 210 450 Very hot

9 240 220 475 Very hot

SPOON MEASURES

Spoon measurements are level unless otherwise specified.

• 1 teaspoon (tsp) = 5ml

• 1 tablespoon (tbsp) = 15ml

• 1 Australian tablespoon = 20ml

(cooks in Australia should measure 3 teaspoons where 1 tablespoon is specified in a recipe)

Good Food is concerned about sustainable sourcing and animal welfare. Where possible, humanely reared meats, sustainably caught fish (see fishonline.org for further information from the Marine Conservation Society) and free-range chickens and eggs are used when recipes are originally tested.

Recipe List

Moroccan Harira & Chicken Soup

Roast Chicken Soup

Winter Leek & Potato Soup

Spiced Carrot & Lentil Soup

Sweetcorn & Smoked Haddock Chowder

Split Pea & Green Pea Smoked-ham Soup

Thai Chicken Soup

Courgette, Potato & Cheddar Soup

Hot & Sour Broth with Prawns

Parsnip Soup with Parsley Cream

Pea & Watercress Soup

Curried Lentil, Parsnip & Apple Soup

Carrot & Coriander Soup

Walkers’ Wild Mushroom, Bacon & Barley Broth

Broccoli Soup with Goat’s Cheese Croutons

Creamy Tomato Soup

Herby Pressed Ham with Spiced Apple Compote

Country Terrine with Black Pepper & Thyme

Chinese Roast Duck with Pancakes

Pesto & Mozzarella-stuffed Mushrooms

Spinach-baked Eggs with Parmesan & Tomato Toasts

Pea Risotto

Easy Cheese Fondue

Spaghetti alle Vongole

Creamy Spiced Mussels

Moroccan Harira & Chicken Soup

Good for you and tasty too, this thick soup can easily be served as a filling supper or casual weekend lunch with toast and houmous.

3-4 hours 4-5

• 3 tbsp olive oil, plus extra to drizzle

• 4 boneless, skinless chicken thighs

• 1 leek, washed and finely sliced

• 4 fat celery sticks, chopped into small pieces

• 3 large carrots, chopped into small pieces

• 2 big parsnips, peeled and chopped into small pieces

• small pack coriander, stalks finely chopped, leaves reserved to serve

• 1 tbsp cumin seeds

• 2 tsp each ground cumin, coriander, cinnamon and turmeric

• 2 tbsp harissa (we used Belazu)

• 2 x 400g cans chopped tomatoes

• 2 chicken stock cubes, crumbled

• 85g/3oz dried green lentils

• zest and juice 1 lemon

• 1 tbsp golden caster sugar

• natural yogurt, to serve (optional)

1 Heat the slow cooker if necessary. Heat half the oil in a frying pan, season the thighs and brown really well on both sides. Remove to a plate. Tip a mug of water into the pan and simmer, scraping up all the browned bits. Tip this liquid into a measuring jug for later.

2 Put the remaining oil, the vegetables and coriander stalks in a big saucepan. Gently cook until the veg is softened about 5 mins. Stir in the spices, turn up the heat, and cook for a few mins. Stir in the harissa, followed by the tomatoes, the chicken, stock cubes and lentils. Top up your jug of chickeny juices to 500ml/18fl oz with water, then add this, too. Bring to a simmer, then tip into the slow cooker, cover and cook for 2-3 hours until the vegetables are tender.

3 Lift the chicken from the soup and shred finely using a couple of forks. (The chicken will be very tender, so stirring the soup may well break it up for you instead.) Return to the soup with the lemon zest and juice and sugar, and season to taste. Ladle into bowls and top with a dollop of yogurt and the coriander leaves.

PER SERVING (5) 316 kcals, fat 14g, saturates 3g, carbs 28g, sugars 17g, fibre 7g, protein 22g, salt 1.6g

Moroccan Harira & Chicken Soup

Roast Chicken Soup

Make this with leftovers from the Sunday roast, or simply poach a couple of chicken breasts in the slow cooker first, following the manufacturer’s instructions.

3-4 hours 4

• 1 tbsp olive oil

• 2 onions, chopped

• 3 medium carrots, chopped

• 1 tbsp thyme leaves, roughly chopped

• 1 litre/1¾ pints chicken stock

• 300g/10oz leftover roast chicken or poached chicken, shredded, or 1 roasted chicken carcass

• 200g/7oz frozen peas

• 3 tbsp Greek yogurt

• 1 garlic clove, crushed

• squeeze lemon juice

• crusty bread, to serve

1 Heat the slow cooker if necessary and heat the oil in a large heavy-based pan. Add the onions, carrots and thyme, then gently fry for 15 mins. Tip the veg into the slow cooker pot with the stock. If you’re using a chicken carcass, add it now, breaking it in half if you need to. Cover and cook for 2–3 hours on High until the vegetables are tender.

2 If you used a carcass, remove it now, and shred any remaining chicken off the bones. Stir this back into the soup, or add your leftover shredded chicken, if using that instead, plus the peas, and cover and cook for 30 mins more.

3 Remove half the mixture, then purée with a stick blender (or ladle half the mixture into a blender or food processor and purée that). Tip back into the pot and check for seasoning.

4 Mix the yogurt, garlic and lemon juice, swirl into the soup in bowls, then serve with some crusty bread.

PER SERVING 339 kcals, fat 13g, saturates 3g, carbs 18g, sugars 11g, fibre 13g, protein 39g, salt 2.0g

Roast Chicken Soup

Winter Leek & Potato Soup

If you are looking for an easy starter you won’t go wrong with this delicate, creamy soup. It is quite rich, so ideal to serve in small portions.

3 hours 6

• 50g/2oz butter

• 450g/1lb potatoes, cut into chunks

• 1 onion, chopped

• 450g/1lb leeks (the weight once the tops and outer leaves are trimmed), sliced

• 1 chicken or vegetable stock cube

• 150ml pot double cream

• milk, to taste

TO SERVE (OPTIONAL)

• knob of butter

• the white part of 1 leek, finely shredded

• snipped chives

1 Heat the slow cooker if necessary. Put the butter, potatoes, onion and leeks in a large pan and crumble in the stock cube. Pour in 500ml/18fl oz boiling water and bring to the boil.

2 Tip into the slow cooker, cover and cook on Low for 2½ hours until the vegetables are tender.

3 Add the cream (if garnishing use three-quarters of the pot) and blitz with a stick blender until silky smooth. Season and dilute with milk – you will need approx 50ml/2fl oz.

4 If garnishing the soup, keep it hot while you heat the butter in a small pan, add the leek and cook until softened. Spoon the soup into bowls, top with a swirl of the reserved cream, leek and chives, then grind over some pepper.

PER SERVING 252 kcals, fat 18 g, saturates 11g, carbs 18g, sugars 3g, fibre 3g, protein 5g, salt 0.7g

Winter Leek & Potato Soup

Spiced Carrot & Lentil Soup

If you’ve got a very large slow cooker it’s worth making a double batch of this low-fat, super-healthy soup as it freezes beautifully.

3½ hours 4 easily doubled

• 2 tsp cumin seeds

• pinch dried chilli flakes

• 2 tbsp olive oil

• 600g/1lb 5oz carrots, washed and coarsely grated (no need to peel)

• 140g/5oz red split lentils

• 700ml/1¼ pints hot vegetable stock

• 125ml/4fl oz milk

• plain yogurt and warmed naan breads, to serve

1 Heat the slow cooker if necessary. Put half the cumin seeds, half the chilli flakes, the oil, carrots, lentils and stock in the pot. Cover and cook on High for 3 hours until the lentils are tender.

2 Dry-fry the remaining cumin seeds and chilli flakes just until fragrant.

3 When the lentils are done, stir in the milk and whizz the soup with a stick blender or in a food processor until smooth (or leave it chunky, if you prefer). Add a splash of water if the soup is a bit thick for you. Season to taste and finish with a dollop of yogurt and a sprinkling of the toasted spices. Serve with warmed naan breads.

PER SERVING 238 kcals, fat 7g, saturates 1g, carbs 34g, sugars 5g, fibre 5g, protein 11g, salt 0.25g

Spiced Carrot & Lentil Soup

Sweetcorn & Smoked Haddock Chowder

The perfect lunch for two, just add some fresh crusty bread and butter, and let the slow cooker do most of the work.

4 hours 2 easily doubled

• knob of butter

• 2 rashers streaky bacon, chopped

• 1 onion, finely chopped

• 350g/12oz potatoes, cut into small cubes

• 500ml/18fl oz full-fat milk

• 140g/5oz sweetcorn, frozen or from a can

• 300g/10oz smoked haddock fillets, skinned

• chopped parsley, to garnish (optional)

1 Heat the slow cooker if necessary. Melt the butter in a frying pan. Tip in the bacon, onion and potatoes, then fry gently until the onion is soft. Scrape everything into the slow cooker pot with the milk. Cover and cook on High for 3 hours until the potatoes are tender.

2 Stir in the sweetcorn, sit the fish fillets on top and press down so they sit just under the surface of the liquid. Cover and cook for another 20–30 mins until the fish flakes easily when pressed.

3 Turn off the slow cooker pot and carefully lift the fish out and on to a plate. Flake into large chunks, checking for bones and discarding them as you go. Gently stir the fish back into the chowder, season with some black pepper. Scatter over the parsley, if using, and serve with plenty of crusty bread.

PER SERVING 550 kcals, fat 16g, saturates 7g, carbs 59g, sugars 18g, fibre 4g, protein 47g, salt 3.5g

Sweetcorn & Smoked Haddock Chowder

Split Pea & Green Pea Smoked-ham Soup

You can easily make this soup ahead, then simply return it to the slow cooker and heat through for an hour on High until piping hot but not bubbling.

5–6 hours, plus overnight soaking 8 easily halved

• 1kg/2lb 4oz ham hock

• 200g/7oz split peas, soaked overnight

• 2 onions, roughly chopped

• 2 carrots, roughly chopped

• 2 bay leaves

• 1 celery stick, roughly chopped

• 300g/10oz frozen peas

• crusty bread and butter, to serve

1 Put the ham in a very large pan with 2 litres/3½ pints water and bring to the boil. Remove from the heat and drain off the water.

2 Heat the slow cooker if necessary. Add the ham to the pot with the split peas, onion, carrots, bay and celery. Cover with the lid and cook on High for 4–5 hours until the ham is tender enough to shred – check occasionally as the ham cooks and softens. You can halve it if you want, so it is all submerged under the liquid.

3 When it is ready, lift out the ham and bay leaves, and tip the frozen peas into the slow cooker. Cook for another 30 mins while you prepare the ham. Peel off and discard the skin, and while it is still hot (wear a clean pair of rubber gloves), shred the meat. Blend the soup until smooth, adding a splash of water if too thick, and then mix in most of the ham. Serve in bowls with the remaining ham scattered on top, and eat with crusty bread and butter.

PER SERVING 292 kcals, fat 11 g, saturates 4g, carbs 23g, sugars 5g, fibre 5g, protein 26g, salt 3.5g

Split Pea & Green Pea Smoked-ham Soup

Thai Chicken Soup

This is perfect for a Monday night if you have a chicken carcass from your Sunday roast. Any leftover meat can be shredded and added with the noodles and veg.

7–8 hours 4

• 140g/5oz soba or wholewheat noodles

• 100g/4oz beansprouts

• 2 pak choi, leaves separated

• 1 red chilli, deseeded and sliced

• 1 tbsp soy sauce

• 2 tbsp honey

• juice 1 lime, plus extra wedges to squeeze over

• 4 spring onions, sliced, to garnish

• ½ small bunch mint, roughly chopped, to garnish

FOR THE BROTH

• 1 roasted chicken carcass

• thumb-sized piece ginger, bashed and sliced

• 1 garlic clove, crushed

• 2 spring onions, sliced

• 5 peppercorns

1 To make the broth, heat the slow cooker if necessary. Put the chicken carcass in the slow cooker pot. Just cover it with hot water, then add the rest of the broth ingredients, and cover and cook on Low for 6–7 hours.

2 Strain the chicken broth into a clean pan. Carefully pick out any pieces of chicken and return them to the broth, but discard the bones. Put the broth back in the slow cooker pot.

3 Add the noodles, beansprouts, pak choi, red chilli, soy sauce, honey and lime juice, adding the squeezed lime halves to the pot, too. Cook on High, covered, for 30 mins more.

4 Ladle the soup into bowls, scatter over the spring onions and mint leaves, and serve with the lime wedges for squeezing over.

PER SERVING 206 kcals, fat 2g, saturates none, carbs 35g, sugars 7g, fibre 2g, protein 15g, salt 1.9g

Thai Chicken Soup

Courgette, Potato & Cheddar Soup

This makes a big batch – perfect for using up a glut of cheap courgettes and potatoes, but if your slow cooker is small, simply halve the quantities of the ingredients.

4 hours 8 easily halved

• 500g/1lb 2oz potatoes, unpeeled and roughly chopped

• 2 vegetable stock cubes

• 1kg/2lb 4oz courgettes, roughly chopped

• bunch spring onions, sliced, save 1 onion, thinly sliced, to garnish

• 100g/4oz extra mature cheddar or vegetarian alternative, grated, plus a little extra to garnish

• good grating fresh nutmeg

1 Heat the slow cooker if necessary. Put the potatoes in the slow cooker pot with just enough water to cover them and crumble in the stock cubes. Cover and cook for 3 hours on High until the potatoes are tender.

2 Scoop out a couple of ladlefuls of stock and save for the end. Add the courgettes and spring onions, put the lid back on and cook for 30 mins more until the courgettes are tender.

3 Take off the heat, then stir in the cheese and season with the nutmeg, salt and some black pepper. Whizz to a thick soup with a stick blender, adding the reserved stock until you get the consistency you like. Serve scattered with the extra grated cheddar, spring onions and black pepper. Or cool and freeze in freezer bags or containers with good lids for up to 3 months.

PER SERVING 131 kcals, fat 6g, saturates 3g, carbs 14g, sugars 3g, fibre 2g, protein 7g, salt 1.3g

Courgette, Potato & Cheddar Soup

Hot & Sour Broth with Prawns

This makes a great starter before a Chinese meal; it’s simple, but the key is allowing time to flavour the broth.

1½ hours, or up to a
guacamole recipe, fancy birthday cakes, pizza near me, antipasto pasta salad, fruity drinks, ower and leek and simmer for a further 6–8 minutes or until the cauliflower is just cooked.

3. Meanwhile, place a small frying pan over a high heat and sauté the bread in the olive oil for 2–3 minutes or until browned, then drain on kitchen paper and set aside.

4. Pour the cream into the saucepan and bring back up to the boil, then remove from the heat and allow to cool for 2–3 minutes. Transfer the contents of the pan to a food processor or blender and purée until smooth. Pour the soup back into the pan and gently bring to a simmer, then season with salt and pepper.

5. Divide between bowls, then sprinkle with the croûtons, drizzle with olive oil and serve immediately.

LEEK AND ROCKET SOUP WITH GOAT’S CHEESE

This classic combination of flavours is a favourite of many. It’s important to pay close attention to the cooking time because if you cook the soup for too long you will lose the flavours and the colour. This soup is also good served cold, but it may be a good idea to add a little more liquid, as the texture tends to change and thicken as it cools. I like to use Mrs Wecksby’s goat’s cheese, or Perroche goat’s cheese from Neal’s Yard, but any other soft goat’s cheese will do fine too.

SERVES 4

VEGETARIAN

1–2 tbsp olive oil

1 large potato, peeled and cut into small dice

1 white onion, peeled and roughly chopped

1 sprig of thyme

2 leeks, trimmed and chopped

1 litre (1¾ pints) vegetable stock

150ml (5fl oz) double cream

100g (3½oz) rocket leaves

Salt and black pepper

TO SERVE

200g (7oz) soft goat’s cheese

1 sprig of chervil, chopped

1. Place a heavy-based pan over a medium heat, pour in the olive oil and add the potato, onion and thyme, then sauté, without browning, for 2–3 minutes. Add the leeks and cook for 1 further minute. Pour in the stock and bring to the boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for about 10 minutes.

2. Pour in the cream and bring back up to the boil, then remove from the heat and allow to cool slightly. Pour the soup into a blender and pulse until smooth, then add the rocket leaves and pulse again. Transfer the soup back into the pan and gently bring to a simmer, then season with salt and pepper.

3. Divide the soup between bowls, crumble over the goat’s cheese, garnish with the chervil and serve.

PISTOU SOUP

A great classic soup with pesto added right at the end, this is easy to make and nice as a starter or a simple snack. It’s definitely a summer soup and you should always use the very best fresh summer vegetables to give maximum colour and flavour. I mix and match the pasta, as it’s a good way to use up broken or leftover bits. The best pistou soup I have come across was in Nice. Not surprising when you consider that the ingredients in its famous Niçoise salad are pretty similar to the ingredients for pistou.

SERVES 6–8

11 plum tomatoes

100g (3½oz) frozen broad beans

4 tbsp olive oil

1 onion, peeled and chopped

2 cloves of garlic, peeled and chopped

1 leek, trimmed and diced

2 carrots, peeled and diced

2 courgettes, topped, tailed and diced

2 potatoes, peeled and diced

1 x 250g can of haricot beans, drained and rinsed

75g (3oz) dried spaghetti

75g (3oz) French beans, topped and tailed and cut into 4 pieces

100g (3½oz) frozen peas

Salt and black pepper

1 handful of basil leaves, to garnish

FOR THE PISTOU

60g (2½oz) fresh basil leaves

4 cloves of garlic, peeled

1 skinned, deseeded and chopped tomato (reserved from step 5)

75g (3oz) grated Parmesan cheese

135ml (4½fl oz) extra-virgin olive oil

1. Score a cross in the bottom of each tomato, place in a bowl and cover with boiling water. Leave for 45 seconds, then drain and peel off the skin. Cut the tomatoes into quarters, remove the seeds and chop the flesh. Blanch the broad beans for 2–3 minutes in boiling water, then refresh in cold water and peel off the skins.

2. Place a large, heavy-based saucepan over a medium heat, add the olive oil and all the chopped and diced vegetables except the tomatoes and fry, without browning, for 4–5 minutes.

3. Add the haricot beans, fill with enough water to cover, and bring to the boil.

4. Meanwhile, wrap the spaghetti in a clean tea towel and crush it on the edge of a worktop, pressing it backwards and forwards to break it into small pieces, then add these to the soup.

5. Add all but one of the chopped tomatoes (reserving this last one for the pistou), bring back up to the boil, reduce the heat and simmer for 15 minutes or until the pasta is cooked. After 10–11 minutes, add the French beans, broad beans and peas. (It’s best to add these at the end of cooking in order to preserve their fresh colour.)

6. While the soup is cooking, place all the pistou ingredients in a blender and purée to a paste.

7. Remove the soup from the heat and stir in the pistou. Season well with salt and pepper and serve straight away.

CREAM OF TOMATO SOUP WITH ROASTED VINE TOMATOES

It was tomatoes that got me interested in food in the first place; as a kid, the smell of them growing in my grandad’s greenhouse intoxicated me. I still love them so much and the first thing I did when I last moved house was to build my own greenhouse in which to grow them. Every time I open the door the smell sends me back 30 years. For this soup, the tomatoes must be the best you can get, and vine tomatoes are ideal because they are usually the freshest.

SERVES 4

VEGETARIAN

1.5kg (3lb 4oz) vine tomatoes

100g (3½oz) butter

½ large onion, peeled and chopped

3 cloves of garlic, peeled and chopped

1 stick of celery, trimmed and chopped

2 tbsp tomato ketchup

2 tbsp tomato purée

1 sprig of thyme

200ml (7fl oz) double cream, plus extra to serve (optional)

Salt and black pepper

FOR THE ROASTED VINE TOMATOES

4 bunches of 3–4 small vine tomatoes

2–3 tbsp olive oil

1 tbsp balsamic vinegar

1. Preheat the oven to 200°C (400°F), Gas 6.

2. Remove the 1.5kg (3lb 4oz) of tomatoes from the vines and chop each tomato into 6, keeping the vines.

3. Melt half the butter in a large, heavy-based saucepan over a medium heat, then add the onion, tomatoes, garlic and celery. Add the ketchup and tomato purée, cover with a lid and bring to the boil.

4. Strip the thyme leaves from the stalks and add the leaves to the pan, reduce the heat to a simmer, then place the vines from the tomatoes on the top, cover with the lid and simmer for 15 minutes. (Be careful not to let it boil, as the vegetables may catch on the bottom of the pan.)

5. Meanwhile, place the 4 bunches of small vine tomatoes (keeping them on the vines) on a baking tray, drizzle with the olive oil and the vinegar, season with salt and pepper and roast in the oven for 5–6 minutes or until softened.

6. Remove the lid from the saucepan, discard the vines and pour in the cream. Remove from the heat, transfer to a blender and pulse until smooth, then pass though a sieve to remove the tomato seeds. Pour the soup back into the pan and reheat gently, trying not to let it boil, then season well with salt and pepper.

7. Serve the soup with a bunch of roasted vine tomatoes in the bottom of each bowl and, if you like, a spoonful of cream swirled on top of the soup.

MUSHROOM SOUP WITH CORIANDER CRESS

I remember going mushroom picking in the New Forest when I was a junior chef. The head chef said it was an inspiring exercise – looking back now, I can see his point, but I also reckon it was cheap forced labour! Fast forward 20 years however, and I’m still doing it. Most recently I went with Nick Nairn up in Scotland. Rowing across the loch on our way to find mushrooms, neither of us exactly looked like Captain Jack Sparrow, but the treasure we came back with was much better than pirate gold – delicious fresh wild mushrooms with a great intense flavour.

SERVES 4

1kg (2lb 3oz) field mushrooms

100ml (3½fl oz) rapeseed oil

2 large shallots, peeled and chopped

2 cloves of garlic, peeled and chopped

Juice of ½ lemon

500ml (18fl oz) chicken stock

250ml (9fl oz) double cream

125g (4½oz) butter, diced

250g (9oz) mixed wild mushrooms (such as chanterelle, cep, trompette, girolle or oyster)

5g (¼oz) chervil, chopped

50g (2oz) coriander cress or micro salad leaves

Salt and black pepper

1. Remove the stalks from the field mushrooms and, using a spoon, scrape away and discard the dark gills, then cut the mushrooms into slices about 5mm (¼ in) thick.

2. Place a large, heavy-based saucepan over a medium heat, pour in half the rapeseed oil, then add the shallots and garlic and cook for 1–2 minutes or until softened. Add the sliced mushrooms, season with salt and pepper, and cook for 3–4 minutes.

3. Stir in the lemon juice then pour in the stock, bring to the boil, reduce the heat and simmer gently for 10 minutes.

4. Transfer the contents of the pan into a blender and whizz to a smooth purée – this should take a good 2–3 minutes. Pour back into the pan, add the cream and mix thoroughly. Gently warm over a low heat, then stir in the diced butter, adjust the seasoning, if needed, and keep warm on the hob.

5. Pour the remainder of the oil into a frying pan over a medium heat and sauté the mixed wild mushrooms for about 3 minutes or until cooked through, then season and set aside.

6. To serve, divide the cooked wild mushrooms between bowls, ladle over the soup and sprinkle with the chervil and coriander cress or micro salad leaves.

CULLEN SKINK

This Scottish soup from the town of Cullen in Moray is one of those great classic soups, with most of its flavour provided by the main ingredient – smoked haddock. Traditionally, it should be made with Finnan Haddie, which is smoked haddock from Findon near Aberdeen, but any other natural smoked haddock will do.

SERVES 4

2 Arbroath Smokies

75g (3oz) unsalted butter

2 banana shallots, peeled and finely chopped

100g (3½oz) diced leek (white part only)

2 cloves of garlic, peeled and finely chopped

200g (7oz) waxy boiled potatoes, peeled

1 litre (1¾ pints) fish stock

100ml (3½fl oz) white wine

200ml (7fl oz) milk

125ml (4½fl oz) double cream

Black pepper

2 tsp chopped chives, to garnish

1. Remove the skin and bones from the fish and flake the flesh.

2. Melt a third of the butter in a large, heavy-based saucepan over a medium heat, then add the shallots, leek and garlic. Cover the pan with a lid and sweat, without browning, for 5–10 minutes.

3. Cut the potatoes into 2cm (¾ in) dice and add to the vegetables, together with three-quarters of the flaked fish (reserving the remaining quarter for later). Cover again with the lid and cook for a further 2 minutes, then pour in the stock and wine. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for 8 minutes.

4. Remove from the heat and allow to cool slightly before carefully transferring the mixture to a blender. Whizz for a few seconds, then add the milk and cream, a little at a time, and blend for 4–5 minutes or until the mixture is very smooth, then pass through a sieve into a clean pan.

5. Gently reheat then add the remaining fish and butter and season well with pepper. Divide between bowls, scatter over the chopped chives and serve with some warm crusty bread.

BEEF MADRAS CURRY

I think India should be on everybody’s list of places to visit, to experience the amazing range of foods and the many different people who live there. This curry takes its name from the city of Madras, in the south of India. It can be made with most meats or it can also be vegetarian. As with most Indian dishes, there were many variations but this was my favourite, from a small café and just served with flatbread. I had the recipe translated into English so that you can enjoy it as much as I did.

SERVES 4–6

800g (1¾ lb) stewing beef, cut into 2.5cm (1in) dice

4–5 tbsp vegetable oil

1 green chilli, deseeded and chopped

1 clove of garlic, peeled and chopped

2cm (¾ in) piece of root ginger, peeled and chopped

1 onion, peeled and finely sliced

12 curry leaves

3 cardamon pods, crushed

2 bay leaves

1 x 400g can of chopped tomatoes

200ml (7fl oz) beef stock

3 tbsp tamarind paste

25g (1oz) butter

25g (1oz) flat-leaf parsley, chopped

Salt and black pepper

1. For the madras curry powder, place all of the whole spices in a spice grinder or coffee grinder, or use a pestle and mortar, and grind to a fine powder, then mix with the ground turmeric and vegetable oil.

2. Next, season the beef all over with salt and pepper. Heat 1–2 tablespoons of the vegetable oil in a large, non-stick saucepan and, over a high heat, sear roughly a third or a half of the beef pieces for 1–2 minutes or until golden brown. Fry the rest of the beef in 1–2 more batches, removing each batch from the pan when the meat is browned and placing it on a plate while you fry the remaining pieces, adding more oil as needed.

3. Blend the chilli, garlic and ginger to a paste using a hand-held blender or a pestle and mortar and adding a splash of water if necessary.

4. Place the pan used to seal the beef back over a high heat, add 1–2 tablespoons of the vegetable oil and the onion and fry for 5 minutes or until softened and starting to brown. Add 3½ tablespoons of the curry powder, along with the chilli, garlic and ginger paste, the curry leaves, cardamom and bay leaves, then stir the mixture well.

FOR THE MADRAS CURRY POWDER

2 tbsp coriander seeds

2 tbsp fenugreek seeds

1 tbsp black mustard seeds

1 tsp cumin seeds

½ tsp fennel seeds

1 tsp black peppercorns

1 cinnamon stick

5 cloves

1 tbsp ground turmeric

2 tbsp vegetable oil

FOR THE FRIED SHALLOTS

3 shallots, peeled and finely sliced

2 tbsp plain flour

100ml (3½fl oz) vegetable oil

5. Tip in the beef and cover with the chopped tomatoes, stock and tamarind paste, then season with salt and pepper. Cover the pan with a lid and bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to low and simmer for 2 hours or until the beef is very tender. Alternatively, cook in the oven, preheated to 140C° (275°F), Gas 1, for 2 hours, or in a slow cooker for 3–4 hours.

6. For the fried shallots, first dust the shallots in the flour. Place a frying pan over a high heat, pour in the vegetable oil and fry the shallots for 2–3 minutes or until crisp and golden brown. Remove from the oil and drain on kitchen paper.

7. Remove the lid from the curry pan, stir in the butter and chopped parsley and season to taste. Spoon the beef on to plates with some of the crispy shallots on top and serve with some plain boiled rice on the side.

BEEF BOURGUIGNON

Classic dishes shouldn’t be messed about with. Beef bourguignon is one of those classics and this recipe has come via the long road from my training days in France. In between the pints of French bière I got a lot of practice at dishes like hake beurre blanc, duck gizzards salads and lemon tarts, and of course this one. It’s still exactly the same as it was back then, just as it should be.

SERVES 4

2 tbsp plain flour

1kg (2lb 3oz) braising steak, cut into 2.5cm (1in) dice

4–5 tbsp olive oil

150g (5oz) pancetta, cut into small chunks

1 shallot, peeled and finely chopped

2 onions, peeled and sliced

1 garlic clove, peeled and crushed

75ml (3fl oz) brandy

500ml (18fl oz) red wine

1 litre (1¾ pints) beef stock

1 bouquet garni (2 bay leaves, 2 sprigs of thyme, 2 sprigs of flat-leaf parsley)

115g (4oz) baby onions

25g (1oz) butter

Salt and black pepper

1. Season the flour with salt and pepper and toss the beef in it. Place a large, non-stick frying pan over a high heat, add 1–2 tablespoons of olive oil and fry the beef for 1–2 minutes in batches, removing each batch from the pan when browned and placing it on a plate while you fry the rest, adding more oil as needed. (Too much meat in the pan at once will mean it takes longer to brown.)

2. Add the pancetta and fry for 1–2 minutes or until golden brown, then tip in the shallot, onions and garlic and fry for a further 2–3 minutes or until browned. Return the cooked beef to the pan and mix well with the other ingredients.

3. Pour in the brandy and carefully set it alight to burn off the alcohol, then add the wine and stock and bring to a simmer. Add the bouquet garni, then cover and cook on a low heat for 2 hours or until tender and thickened. Alternatively, cook in the oven at 140°C (275°F), Gas 1, for 2 hours, or in a slow cooker for 3–4 hours.

4. Half an hour before the meat is cooked, blanch the baby onions in boiling water for 30 seconds, then peel. Place a separate frying pan over a high heat, add the butter and a little olive oil and fry the onions for 2–3 minutes or until just golden, then add to the casserole for the last 20 minutes of cooking time.

5. Just before serving, check the seasoning. Spoon a generous portion of beef bourguignon on to each plate and a pile of Creamy Potato Mash alongside, together with some green beans or Vichy Carrots.

COURGETTE, TOMATO AND BASIL PIE WITH DORSTONE CHEESE

Dorstone is a cheese I came across once at a farmers’ market, made by Charlie Westhead of Neal’s Yard Dairy. It’s an unpasteurised goat’s cheese made in Herefordshire, with a moist, fluffy texture and coated in ash. If you can’t get it, don’t worry; a non-chalky goat’s cheese will do fine, even a French Crottin.

SERVES 4

2–3 tbsp olive oil, plus extra for oiling

4 courgettes, topped and tailed and sliced lengthways

1 x 250g jar of sun-blushed tomatoes, drained

2 banana shallots, peeled and chopped

2 cloves of garlic, peeled

6 large basil leaves, torn

200g (7oz) firm goat’s cheese, such as Dorstone or Ogleshield

Plain flour, for dusting

200g (7oz) ready-rolled all-butter puff pastry

1 egg, beaten

Salt and black pepper

ONE 25CM (10IN) OVENPROOF DISH

1. Preheat the oven 170°C (325°F), Gas 3, and oil the ovenproof dish with olive oil.

2. Lay the courgettes on a baking tray, season with salt and pepper and drizzle with the olive oil. Bake in the oven for 10 minutes or until they start to turn golden brown, then remove from the oven and allow to cool.

3. Place the tomatoes, shallots, garlic and basil leaves in a bowl and season with salt and pepper. Add the baked courgettes and mix well, then crumble over the cheese and set aside.

4. On a clean, lightly floured work surface, lay out the pastry and cut out a circle 2c
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We also know that Mr. Commander opened the New Orleans Delmonico in a building built in 1890 as a one-story dairy creamery that later gained a second story by 1911. The top floor served as a gymnasium where gentlemen in bow ties boxed to work off some of the luncheon specials. (Photographs of this era grace the walls of the elegant bar at Emeril’s Delmonico today.)

The menu under Mr. Commander’s ownership reflected his association with Delmonico’s in New York, featuring steaks and French-style dishes, but also included classic New Orleans–style dishes.

The restaurant became a favorite dining spot for local businessmen who had offices in the neighborhood, but because of some personal business problems, Mr. Commander handed the torch of ownership to Anthony LaFranca in 1911.

LaFranca, at age twelve, came from Sicily to New Orleans where he began working at Tranchina’s Restaurant on Carondelet Street and Howard Avenue. It was there that LaFranca met his bride, Marie Masset. Her grandfather was the proprietor of the restaurant. With the help from the Eureka Homestead Society and a short-lived partnership with Joseph Smurchich, who lived on Euterpe Street behind the restaurant, LaFranca purchased Delmonico.

When LaFranca began active management of the restaurant, the two-door entrance to the ornate Edwardian building was highlighted by the words Restaurant Café. A corner lamppost of three globular lights stood at the entrance at Erato and St. Charles. The windows and fanlights over the entrance were of leaded glass and the floors were of an intricate tile design in the pattern of an Oriental carpet, which created an elegant atmosphere.

When Anthony married Marie Masset in 1916, the gymnasium was converted to a residence where their daughters, Angela (Angie) and Rose Marie, were born.

The restaurant thrived. Diners enjoyed Italian, French, and New Orleans dishes along with cocktails and good wine.

But in 1943 Anthony died and Marie, as hostess and owner, took over the reins of the restaurant. In 1944, the exterior façade was changed.

A prominent local architect, August Perez, was hired to do structural work, and another local architect, Merlin McCullar, changed the interior to French Provençal, adding oak wainscoting and large oak doors to create a more formal atmosphere. Elegant furniture and chandeliers from Henry Stern’s antiques shop in Royal Street in the French Quarter graced the dining rooms, which had seventeen-foot ceilings. The bar area, popular with male customers, provided an informal club atmosphere.

It was during this period that Mrs. LaFranca commissioned John McCrady, who was probably the best exponent of regionalism working in the South, to paint the large oil painting Steamboat ’Round the Bend, depicting the dramatic race of the paddle wheelers Natchez and Robert E. Lee steaming down the Mississippi River in the 1860s, to hang behind the bar. McCrady was paid with dinners, drinks, and an unknown fee for his work, which took a year to complete. (The painting was sold at auction for $280,000 in 1997.)

The menu was revised and expanded, and included such classics as Oysters Rockefeller and Oysters Bienville, as well as the restaurant’s signature oyster sampler—Oysters Delmonico—topped with crabmeat and melted cheese. Creole specialties such as shrimp remoulade, turtle soup, trout amandine, and pompano en papillote were featured, as well as Kansas City beef—filet mignon, Kansas City strip, and rib eye. Italian specialties included spaghetti and daube, spaghetti à la bordelaise, and chicken cacciatore with noodles.

Mrs. LaFranca, known for her graciousness and creativity, guided the restaurant into its golden years that followed World War II. It became a favorite haunt of old-line New Orleans families, local businessmen, and theater stars such as Helen Hayes, Agnes Moorehead, and June Havoc, who came in to dine when they were in the city.

When Mrs. LaFranca died in 1975, Angie Brown and Rose Dietrich took over the business and did so with great graciousness. One or both of the ladies were always at the front door to meet and greet their loyal customers. Being born and raised in the restaurant, they were well aware of their customers’ likes, dislikes, and special needs.

One customer didn’t like his oysters on the half shell to be watery, so when the ladies knew he was coming, they would drain the oysters on crushed ice just for him. Another local gentleman, Mr. Manheim, always wanted to sit at Table 16 and he favored frog’s legs. And yet another regular customer loved roast beef sandwiches, but didn’t want the gravy to drip, so, of course, that was taken care of before it left the kitchen.

It was this attention to detail and their genuine concern for their customers that made the establishment so well loved by their guests, many of whom became lifelong personal friends.

The restaurant maintained its customer base and remained a timeless Creole dining haven, celebrating its one hundredth anniversary in 1995 with a multicourse feast featuring several signature dishes paired with wines.

Delmonico was one of the few restaurants in New Orleans (other than Antoine’s and Galatoire’s) that could claim a kitchen staff whose youngest staff member had been there for at least a quarter of a century. Ernest “Jitterbug” Rome, one of the cooks, began as a porter in 1939 and worked his way up. Elmer Decquir was with Delmonico for over forty years and has a daughter named Delco after the restaurant. Kennis Leonard started working in 1947. Irene Polk came in 1957, and later Atwood Davis. They worked together until 1997 when the ladies sold Delmonico.

After 102 years on St. Charles Avenue, the ladies decided that it was time for the restaurant to enter a new era. After the last of the Carnival parades on the Monday before Mardi Gras in 1997, the doors were closed.

For years Delmonico was closed to the public on Mardi Gras day. “We were always at the restaurant on Mardi Gras with our families to toast the captains of the parades who stopped in front. Pete Fountain and his Half Fast Marching Club would stop in front of the restaurant because we had food and drinks for them. We could repair their costumes if they had torn them along the way while they serenaded our guests,” remembered Angie.

On that Mardi Gras day of 1997, Pete Fountain and his club halted, as usual, in front of the restaurant, now empty and quiet, and played taps in honor of his old friends.

The Times-Picayune restaurant writer Craig LaBan in his Eating Out column of February 11, 1997, noted, “dinner is over at Delmonico.” Ron Chapman, a columnist for The St. Bernard Voice, another local newspaper, devoted his entire editorial on February 28, 1997, to the sad occasion of the restaurant’s closing. “It was like losing a dear friend…a member of the family…a piece of New Orleans’ rich history. When you walked into Delmonico, you were greeted as a family guest. There were no strangers. Regular customers grew to know one another and generated an even greater sense of family and intimacy.”

Like so many other customers, he recalled the birthdays, anniversaries, weddings, and other cherished moments spent in this congenial setting. (Mention Delmonico to any number of New Orleanians of several generations, and they’ll tell you a story about their many personal experiences at the restaurant.) Dennis J. Waldron, now a judge in the Orleans Parish Criminal District Court, frequented the restaurant with his mother when he was a young child. Later, after he married, he and his family often gathered for special occasions such as birthdays and anniversaries. Judge Waldron has collected a wealth of mementos, including photographs, menus, and correspondence, to confirm his attachment to the LaFranca family.

“On Mardi Gras day, the ladies, Angie and Rose, would offer drinks in Styrofoam cups to members of the marching clubs as they passed by the restaurant, which was on the route of just about every parade,” he remembers.

“Ah, we had great times. The ladies were as much a draw as was the food then. They were so attentive to all the customers, who were like their extended family. I remember well when my mother was ill they sent a meal to her in the hospital on Mother’s Day. The staff at the restaurant was also considered their family. There was little turnover because everyone was treated so well and everyone from the cooks to the waiters and waitresses and busboys knew all the customers’ quirks, which table they preferred or their favorite drinks and dishes.”

Many couples tell of their courting days, dining at the restaurant, then getting engaged there, having their wedding reception at the restaurant, and who continue to celebrate their anniversary at Delmonico. One such couple is Joan and Terry Walker, the parents of Mauricio Andrade’s wife. (Mauricio is Director of Operations for Emeril’s restaurants.)

“I had my bridesmaids’ luncheon there the week before the reception that was held upstairs at the restaurant following our wedding at Incarnate Word Church,” relates Joan. The Walkers remember that at the reception, drinks were passed on trays, as were hot hors d’oeuvres such as breaded veal tidbits, oyster patties, and shrimp canapés.

Joan remembers changing into her going-away suit upstairs, where Rose and her husband lived. “And we went back a year later for our first anniversary and continued to go often for special occasions. Of course, we still go there,” says Terry.

In March 1997, it was announced that Chef Emeril Lagasse was the new owner of Delmonico. Lagasse, with two very successful restaurants (Emeril’s and NOLA) under his belt in New Orleans, had plans to honor Delmonico’s heritage and embrace its unique history, but it would indeed prove to be a challenge.

“When I took over ownership of Delmonico, I promised Rose and Angie I would make them proud,” says Emeril. “It was my vision to preserve the traditional and classic origins of the restaurant and pay homage to an establishment that had been in the community for one hundred years. Here was a grand dame on stately St. Charles Avenue that just needed to be fluffed up, renovated, and redecorated to bring it into a new age, but I wanted to retain a certain uptown ambience and graciousness.”

The building underwent an extensive historic renovation under the direction of Peter Trapolin of Trapolin Architects in New Orleans. The interior designers, Ann Holden and Ann Dupuy, of Holden & Dupuy, created a very elegant, yet understated design in keeping with the historic nature of the building. It took a year (a very hectic one) to ready the restaurant for its grand opening on July 26, 1998, but the time and effort was well rewarded.

“Rose and Angie were thrilled by the renovation and happy to see the restaurant reborn,” says Emeril.

“Like Mrs. LaFranca, I wanted a stunning painting to hang in the restaurant, so we commissioned world-renowned still-life artist Amy Weiskopf to paint an oil painting that showcases the classic elements of Creole cuisine. The bar area on the first floor pays homage to Anthony LaFranca’s love for the sport of boxing with several original photographs of his second-story gymnasium, dating back to the early 1900s.

“The style of cuisine at Delmonico is Creole, and I wanted to keep many of the classic items from the former menu while adding inventive flavors of my own. We started tableside service and preparation in keeping with the classic style of Creole cuisine in New Orleans,” says Emeril.

“Like the first Delmonico’s in New York City and at the Delmonico of New Orleans, I want to keep the vision alive. There was always great attention to the quality of food, the consideration of the customers, fine wines, great art, and faultless service. The ambience of the renovated restaurant is exactly as we dreamed it to be—elegant, yet understated, luxurious, but comfortable. It is these tremendous responsibilities that give me the inspiration to keep this restaurant alive and well for many years to come.

Thanks, Rose and Angie, for giving me your blessings; a table is always here for you. I hope you and everyone will enjoy this homage to the past and continue these traditions into the future.”

COCKTAILS & LIBATIONS, OLD AND NEW

There is much speculation as to how and when the cocktail originated. Stanley Clisby Arthur, in his book Famous New Orleans Drinks, claims that the cocktail was born in New Orleans. His account tells us that a gentleman by the name of Antoine Amedée Peychaud fled San Domingo in 1793 during the slave uprising and sought refuge in New Orleans. He brought with him a secret family recipe for a liquid tonic that was to become known as bitters. Peychaud, an apothecary, set up shop in a building that still stands in the 400 block of Royal Street in the French Quarter, where he dispensed his bitters combined with cognac to remedy stomach ailments.

Arthur tells us in the book:

“He poured portions into what we now know as an egg-cup, the old-fashioned double-end egg-cup. This particular piece of crockery, known to the French-speaking population as a coquetier (pronounced ‘ko-k-tay’), was, in all probability, forerunner of the present jigger—the name given the double-end metal contraption holding a jigger (1½ ounces) in the big end, and a pony (1 ounce) in the little end, which we now use to measure portions for mixed drinks.” Arthur goes on to explain that the pronunciation of the coquetier may have changed due to the “thickened tongues of the imbibers.”

I don’t know about you, but I like Arthur’s theory!

The Sazerac, a New Orleans favorite, was created in New Orleans in the 1870s. Other local cocktail standards include Old Fashioneds and Manhattans (probably a favorite in the New York Delmonico in its heyday), as well as what we call eye-openers—bloody Marys, milk punches, and gin fizzes.

Take my advice, don’t gulp the cocktails; rather, sip and enjoy them.

Absinthe Frappé

MAKES 1 COCKTAIL

You’ll find that New Orleans–style mixed drinks are as complex and distinctive as the food, and many call for absinthe or its modern-day substitutes.

Absinthe was a distilled aromatic liquor first commercialized in France in the early 1800s, achieving the height of its popularity in the 1850s. It was popular in New Orleans—most probably due to the city’s busy port and French influences—and a popular French Quarter establishment still is called the Absinthe Bar from long ago. Many countries banned absinthe in 1915 due to the supposed toxicity and addictive properties of thujone, a chemical in the ingredient wormwood, although it was later determined that the combination of high alcohol with the thujone was probably to blame.

Other strong anise-flavored and herb-infused liquors were created when the wormwood-containing absinthes were banned. Of these anise-flavored liquors are the French Pernod and Ricard, and the American-made Herbsaint.

Crushed ice

1½ ounces Pernod or Herbsaint

¾ ounce Simple Syrup (Cocktails and Libations, Old and New)

Put the crushed ice into a small rocks glass. Add the Pernod and the simple syrup along with a splash of water. Serve immediately.

Absinthe Suissesse

MAKES 1 COCKTAIL

The Swiss Absinthe is a reference to one of the three categories of absinthe made in the 1800s. The name refers not to the manufacturing locale but to the highest grade of absinthe made.

In this cocktail, the anise-flavored liqueur is combined with cold half-and-half, but you can certainly use chilled milk or heavy cream. Orgeat syrup is made with almonds, sugar, and rose water or orange-flower water. It’s available at most wine and liquor stores, and also can be found through online retailers.

1½ ounces Pernod or Herbsaint

¾ ounce orgeat syrup

1 large egg white

4 ounces cold half-and-half Crushed ice

Combine all the ingredients in a cocktail shaker and shake vigorously. Strain into a chilled martini glass or white wine goblet and serve.

Delmonico Bloody Mary Mix

MAKES 1 GALLON

Spicy Bloody Marys are a favorite New Orleans eye-opener, particularly during Carnival season. Here’s our recipe for a large batch that can be made in advance and kept chilled in the refrigerator until ready to use.

Four 32-ounce bottles tomato juice

8 ounces Worcestershire

3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

1 tablespoon Emeril’s Original Essence or Creole Seasoning (Basics)

1 tablespoon prepared horseradish, or to taste

1 teaspoon celery salt

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Combine all the ingredients in a gallon container. Shake well, adjust the seasoning to taste, and refrigerate until ready to serve.

Bloody Mary Cocktail

MAKES 1 COCKTAIL

1½ ounces vodka

4 ounces Delmonico Bloody Mary Mix

Crushed ice

Lime or lemon wedge, for garnish

Combine the vodka and Bloody Mary mix in a large Old-Fashioned glass. Add the crushed ice to fill the glass, stir, and garnish with a lime or lemon wedge. Serve immediately.

Café Brûlot

MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS

I’ve heard that a visitor to New Orleans once described a version of café brûlot as “tasting the delights of Heaven while beholding the terrors of Hell.” Let me tell you why.

The coffee, brandy, and spices are flamed tableside, usually with the house lights dimmed, for a dramatic effect and the taste is, well, heavenly.

Most restaurants that serve this have a special decorative brûlot bowl that is heated over a flame. The liquor is flambéed in the bowl and then ladled down long orange and lemon peel spirals back into the bowl, and then hot black coffee is added. A specially designed metal brûlot ladle has a small strainer at the end of it so that the citrus peel and spices can be filtered out. The finished drink is served either in demitasse cups or tall footed mugs often decorated with a full-length portrait of the devil, a reference to a similar flamed coffee drink called café diable, which has only lemon peel rather than both orange and lemon.

If you don’t have a brûlot bowl, you can certainly use a chafing dish with a flame underneath.

1 medium thin-skinned orange

1 medium thin-skinned lemon

10 whole cloves

Two 2-inch cinnamon sticks, broken in half

3 ounces brandy

1½ ounces Grand Marnier, Triple Sec, or other orange-flavored liqueur

2 cups hot, freshly brewed black coffee

1. Using a small, sharp knife, remove the peel from the orange in a long intact spiral, about 1 inch wide. Remove the peel from the lemon in the same manner, but about ½ inch wide. Discard the fruit or reserve for another use.

2. Stud the orange and lemon peels each with 5 cloves at intervals and place in a brûlot bowl or chafing dish with the flame on low. Add the cinnamon sticks, brandy, and liqueur and carefully ignite with a match. Hold the orange and lemon spirals with the prongs of a fork over the bowl, and, while the mixture is still flaming, ladle the flaming mixture down the peel 4 times into the bowl. Add the hot coffee and stir well with the ladle.

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