Simple Fare: Fall and Winter by Karen Mordechai, EPUB, 141972665X

November 26, 2017

Simple Fare: Fall and Winter by Karen Mordechai

  • Print Length: 192 Pages
  • Publisher: Harry N. Abrams
  • Publication Date: September 19, 2017
  • Language: English
  • ASIN: B074QPQ6H5
  • ISBN-10: 141972665X
  • ISBN-13: 978-1419726651
  • File Format: EPUB

 

”Preview”

Contents

Seasonality

Introduction

Usage/Market Variations

Essentials

Tomato Confit

Garlic Confit

Everything Oil

Black Garlic Dressing

Smoked Yogurt

Pickled Vegetables beet + turmeric

Chermoula

Dukkah

Roasted Beef Broth

Chicken Stock

Guide to Cooking Legumes + Grains

Salt Guide

Fermented + Grounding

Fermented Lemon + Lime

Kraut

Black Garlic

Harissa

Root Tea burdock, wildflower honey

Breakfast

Rose Grain Porridge farro, coconut, pine syrup, pistachio, pink salt

Yogurt + Citrus pomelo, maple, poppy, black salt

Frittata purple cauliflower, mustard greens, gruyère, smoked yogurt

Çilbir cucumber yogurt, brown butter

Bean Toast pink radicchio, butter

Dark Chocolate Buttermilk Pancakes crème fraîche, hazelnut, maple

Morning Loaf espresso, chocolate, crème fraîche, cyprus salt

Toasts

Cinnamon Toast miche, muscovado, crème fraîche, cinnamon, cyprus salt

Tahini Toast cherry buckwheat, brown butter, edible flower, cyprus salt

Burnt Carrot Toast smoked labneh, white sesame, cyprus salt

Smoked Fish Toast sable, dark rye, coriander, lemon, caper berry

Any Day Toast goat cheese, pickled mustard seed, olive oil

Bowls

Daal yellow pigeon pea, basmati, yogurt, wild mint

Roasted Beef Bowl short rib, new potato, turnip

Roasted Vegetable Soup cauliflower, thyme, brown butter, smoked yogurt

Congee burdock, charred radicchio, black garlic–sesame oil

Plates

Black Radish Salad persimmon, black garlic

Roasted Marrow Bones garlic toast

Blood Orange botija olive, yogurt, lime, purple basil

Roasted Clams butter, shallot, white wine

Burnt

Smoked Blue Potatoes pickled mustard seed, parsley

Burnt Lemon Cauliflower yogurt, salt

Charred Purple Cabbage tahini, salt

Burnt Baby Beets crème fraîche, salt

Roasted Squash maple, cumin

Charred Shishitos smoked yogurt, salt

Charred Eggplant cashew, lemon

Blackened Okra cumin, coriander, yogurt

Mains

Pasta, three ways

no. 1 | classic tomato, butter, parmesan

no. 2 | black squid, mushroom confit, pecorino

no. 3 | pink garlic confit, cream, piave

Risotto, two ways

no. 1 | everyday quinoa, trumpet mushroom, crème fraîche, truffle

no. 2 | slow-cooked meyer lemon, egg, manchego

Simple Roast Chicken fermented lemon, black garlic, butter, oil-cured olive, basil

Everyday Fish salmon, parsley, cilantro, mint, lime

Poached Cod tomato confit, oil-cured olive, saffron, white wine

Braised Brisket merlot, beech mushroom, garlic-parmesan mash

Snacks

Smoked Cheese

Wild Mushroom Confit white trumpet, beech, black trumpet, truffle

Blackened Chickpeas

Black or White Tahini

Hummus, three ways

no. 1 | classic charred eggplant, blackened chickpea, lemon, sesame, pine nut

no. 2 | orange (carrot-turmeric) blackened chickpea, lemon, parsley

no. 3 | hot pink (beet-sumac) yogurt, almond, fennel pollen

Desserts

Dark Chocolate Bark blood orange, black sesame, pistachio, cyprus salt

Roasted Pears malbec, cinnamon, mascarpone

Blistered Black Grapes crème fraîche, salt

Churros ceylon cinnamon, crème anglaise

Ice Cream, three ways

no. 1 | cinnamon

no. 2 | salted caramel

no. 3 | halva

Cook’s Notes

Basic Ingredients

Sources

Index of Searchable Terms

Acknowledgments

Seasonality

Cooking seasonally means supporting our local farmers and producers. It also means celebrating produce at its peak and best form.

As fall and winter approach, we find ourselves turning inward—spending more time at home—and cooking in a more relaxed way. The pace slows, the temperatures drop, and we seek nourishing foods to balance the weather and support our immunity. We enhance our meals with healing herbs and use food as medicine as much as possible. We use roots like burdock, turmeric, and ginger often. Our grains shift to protein-rich legumes and pulses. The essentials of our larder are filled with bone broths and stocks, nourishment at the very baseline.

The flavor profiles take on a more layered depth in this season. The aromas of stews, red wines, and cinnamon fill these pages and our spaces. You’ll find a deeper, almost sexier tone to the food here.

You will also notice the colors shift in this season, from bright and poppy in the seasons prior—the palette mutes a little naturally. The cabbages and purples are earthlike and feel appropriately hued. We celebrate these colors in our cooking and bring as much excitement and vibrancy to the plate as possible.

These recipes will guide you through the Fall / Winter offerings at your local markets, as they tend to unfold in different locales. As there is always a transition between seasons, you’ll find that reflected in the meals. Slowly, as the weather cools, we begin to deepen our meals a bit. We ease into the season with gentle care.

This is how I cook.

This is how we eat.

Concept

This book is meant to be a resource, a guide for cooking seasonally and simply.

I am drawn to food and its inherent beauty. In this book, I have collected a sampling of the way I like to cook, daily—both at our studio and for my family. The recipes are seasonally inspired, good, and wholesome. It is food as it should be: nuanced, bright, and gorgeous. This is about how we cook and eat every day in our home and with our loved ones.

Journey

I grew up surrounded by food, as it was the backbone of immigrant traditions in a new environment. My family brought their cultures and traditions and expressed their love through meals of plenty. Their story (and their food) was a complex and varied one rooted in Jerusalem in the 1950s, a time in which ethnicities from around the globe were melding together in a young country. Influences from the Middle East and Eastern Europe were converging to formulate a new community. When my family then immigrated to the United States, they brought these melded cultures with them. As I developed my own viewpoint, these influences, along with my current journey, created my own path. I was always fascinated with food. I was drawn to its beauty and also moved by its cultural significance. I studied as a photographer, and in 2005 I did my master’s thesis on the food in my home, through the scope of its maternal lineage.

A few years later, I began Sunday Suppers, a communal cooking space, and became more and more immersed in the world of food. I was photographing and also cooking. Exploring, eating, and finding my own sense of things. I met amazing chefs and cooks, and was continually inspired in our collaborative atmosphere.

Sunday Suppers evolved into a hub and a center point for community and inspiration. At the space, we hold community dinners and events that bring people into the kitchen. The premise is to cook together and enjoy the culture and beauty of food through connectivity.

I believe food should capture your spirit. Your food, I believe, is a compilation of your journey in life—it collects bits and pieces as you go.

From youth and culture, from travel, and from day-to-day experiences. It is also, very much, an evolution. My own story and viewpoint sit on the pages ahead.

As you read, I hope you will see a true love and celebration of food. That is what this book is about. My hope is that it liberates you and allows you to learn a few great techniques that will honestly make you a better cook. More than anything, I hope it inspires you to find the same joy in cooking as I do.

Food’s ability to bring people together is unparalleled. It is at the foundation of our cultures; it is the goodness we can bring to ourselves and others. When we celebrate food and retain its inherent quality, we nourish ourselves and our lives. We take the time to source good ingredients and produce. We support our local farmers and artisans, and we help sustain a beautiful cycle of goodness that extends to the people around us.

Food

At Sunday Suppers, I’ve had the opportunity to experience and make food as a cultural connector. At the studio, we create food that is gorgeous and fun and sometimes off-beat. We cook all the time, and we experiment with colors and flavors. Sometimes these are simple studio meals, and other times they are larger community dinners for twenty to fifty people. Food, in our studio, brings people together: It is a day-to-day community affair.

As a mother, I cook almost all our family meals (yes, even after long studio days). I feel this is important, and it is how I can nourish my (little) family and myself. I know where my food is coming from: I try to buy seasonally, from farmers and local purveyors. With all this said, I also know the challenges of a very busy schedule and weekday life. And so I have found my way: making grains and a soup on a Sunday night, and sometimes roasting some vegetables for the week. I’ll often make double the amount of dressing so we can have it in the refrigerator. I keep lots of greens, eggs, avocados, and fresh breads on hand at home.

Format

Ultimately, the purpose of this book is to compile all these meals from the studio and our home and bring them forth as a resource for simple and beautiful food. The journey is unending, but this is a starting point. This book is part of a two-volume series, its companion being Spring/Summer.

Each family and home has their own story, their own way. If there is a contribution to be made here, it is simply to tell our path and food story. If it happens to inspire you to cook, to visit a market, and to experiment beyond the norm, that would be an achievement.

The recipes are meant to be utilitarian and straightforward, but simultaneously unique and inspiring. The word simple is used often and is meant to impart a sense of ease, not intended to be simplistic—these recipes are aimed to be inspiring without being out of reach. Aspirational and liberating.

Cook with your season, and in your way. Have freedom and lightness in your kitchen; it’s a wonderful place to be.

Usage/Market Variations

I hear from many cooks that they will follow a recipe to a T; they will create their list and take on a recipe like it is a didactic thing.

Here, we are breaking the mold a bit. If you go to market with the intention to make an oyster mushroom risotto, but the mushrooms are not looking great, or there are no oyster mushrooms in season, you can make an alternate decision.

Instead of mushrooms, sage, and Pecorino for your risotto, choose fennel, Parmesan, and thyme. The idea here is to offer alternates, which we call “market variations,” based on the season and also to give readers guidance on some flavor profiles that work. In this way, readers can feel liberated.

Each recipe is built with a few seasonal items, herbs, and flavorings. These original ingredients are underlined. Beneath the recipe title, you will find two or three alternate versions of the original ingredients. These variations can be substituted for the underlined ingredients and are listed in the same order as the items they are replacing in the recipe title. Unless otherwise noted, the alternate ingredients can be prepared and incorporated into the finished dish in the same manner as the original.

To help you utilize the market variations in the book, there is a “Cook’s Notes” section (this page) that offers measurements and additional information on how to prepare the variations. Be sure to reference that section for further assistance when making a recipe with a variant ingredient.

Essentials

This season is about slowing down and imparting strong and complex flavors into our cooking. Ahead, you will find the building blocks for the season, including oils, sauces, and such to keep in your larder. These will become useful tools to have on hand. Use them as called for, but also take liberty to be playful and use them in an unexpected manner.

Tomato Confit

Makes about 1 quart (960 ml)

Preserving end-of-summer tomatoes in a slow-roasted confit extends the tomato’s life-span just a bit longer, adding an element of umami and sweetness to toasts, pastas, risottos, etc. Make a large batch at summer’s end and use it on absolutely anything.

2 pounds (910 g) vine-ripened tomatoes

¼ cup (60 ml) olive oil, plus more if needed

1 teaspoon coarse sea salt

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

6 sprigs fresh thyme

2 bay leaves

4 garlic cloves, halved

½ teaspoon sugar

Preheat the oven to 350°F (190°C).

Remove the tomatoes from the vine and halve them crosswise. Pour the olive oil into a baking dish just large enough to fit all the tomato halves snugly, making sure it coats the entire bottom of the dish and adding more if needed. Sprinkle the salt and black pepper evenly over the olive oil and add the thyme sprigs and bay leaves.

Arrange the tomato halves over the olive oil and herbs, cut sides down. They should fit without much space in between. Tuck the garlic between the tomatoes and sprinkle the sugar over the top.

Bake until the tomatoes are soft and have released their juices, about 1 hour. Remove from the oven and remove and discard the thyme sprigs and bay leaves. Let the confit cool before using or storing.

Storage – Refrigerate in an airtight container for up to 2 weeks.

Garlic Confit

Makes 1 quart (960 ml)

Many of our dishes have an aromatic foundation, consisting of herbs and garlic as the building blocks of flavor. This garlic confit takes a bit of preparation, but it will keep in your refrigerator for weeks and will become an invaluable daily tool. It can be used in place of garlic in any recipe and adds smoky, roasted notes for a bit more complexity. We also love cooking with the garlic oil itself, and using it on salads, toasts, and pastas.

1 lemon

7 heads garlic, cloves separated and peeled

2 sprigs fresh thyme

3 cups (720 ml) olive oil, plus more if needed

Preheat the oven to 250ºF (120ºC).

Using a vegetable peeler, remove all the yellow peel from the lemon, avoiding the bitter white pith. Drop the peels into a medium ovenproof saucepan and add the garlic and thyme. Pour the olive oil over to cover, adding more as needed to fully submerge the garlic. Cover and bake until the garlic cloves are golden and tender, about 2 hours.

Remove from the oven, uncover, and let cool. Transfer the garlic and oil to a sealed container and refrigerate until ready to use.

Storage – Refrigerate in a sealed container for up to 2 to 3 weeks.

Everything Oil

Makes 3 cups (720 ml)

As named, this oil is everything. It adds a roasted depth of flavor, garlic, and herbs to any dish—and is a great tool to have on hand.

3 lemons

1 head garlic, cloves separated and peeled

1 small chile pepper (optional)

4 bay leaves

8 sprigs fresh thyme

3 cups (720 ml) olive oil, plus more if needed

Preheat the oven to 250°F (120°C).

Using a vegetable peeler, remove all the yellow peel from the lemons, avoiding the bitter white pith. Drop the peels into a small ovenproof saucepan or baking dish and add the garlic, chile (if using), bay leaves, and thyme. Pour the olive oil over, making sure all the garlic, chile, and herbs are fully submerged. Cover and bake until the garlic is softened and the oil is infused and fragrant, 1 to 1½ hours.

Remove from the oven, uncover, and allow the oil to cool completely. Transfer the oil and solids to a sealed container to store.

Storage – Refrigerate for up to 1 month.

Black Garlic Dressing

Makes about ¼ cup (60 ml)

This dressing adds a smoky, earthy element to many of our wintery salads and plates. It is equally delicious served with bread for dipping.

2 Black Garlic cloves (this page)

1 tablespoon white wine vinegar

3 tablespoons olive oil

Pinch of Cyprus flake salt

Place the garlic and vinegar in a small bowl. Use a fork to mash the cloves into a paste and stir to incorporate with the vinegar. Add the olive oil in a slow and steady stream, while whisking, until well combined. Season with flaky salt to taste.

Smoked Yogurt

Makes 1 cup (240 ml)

This relatively new addition to our repertoire is a huge source of excitement for us. The discovery that a small home smoker can add a distinct and beautiful smokiness to our cooking has been revelatory. This recipe explains how to smoke yogurt, which is a base we use often in our cooking. The same process can be applied to crème fraîche, Mascarpone, and labneh. Try it—you just might do a little dance.

Hickory wood chips

1 cup (240 ml) plain Greek yogurt

Mound the hickory wood chips in the bottom of a stovetop smoker according to the manufacturer’s instructions (ours calls for 1½ tablespoons chips). Place the drip tray and smoking rack over the top. Heat the smoker over medium-high heat until the chips start really smoking, about 2 minutes.

While the smoker heats, use a toothpick to poke small holes in the bottom of a ramekin-size aluminum container. Alternatively, you can fashion your own container from a doubled-up piece of aluminum foil and poke holes in the bottom. Dollop the yogurt into the container.

Once the chips are smoking, place the container of yogurt on top of the smoking rack and close the lid to the smoker. Remove from the heat and cold smoke the yogurt for 1 hour, keeping the lid closed the whole time. (If your lid doesn’t fit snugly, place something heavy, like a cast-iron skillet, on top to keep it completely sealed). After 1 hour, remove the yogurt (it will be barely colored on top), transfer to a bowl, and stir with a spoon so that the smoky flavor is evenly distributed. Serve immediately or transfer to an airtight container to store.

Storage – Refrigerate for 3 to 4 days.

Pickled Vegetables beet + turmeric

Makes 2 cups pickles

These bright pickles are beautiful, crunchy, and quite tart—as we like them. We add them to sandwiches, bowls, soups, and even breakfast. We use a variety of vegetables and even quail eggs, but feel free to explore and add your favorites. Ideas may include baby turnips, baby carrots, shallots, baby beets, radishes, etc.

Beet

2 cups assorted items to be pickled, such as baby carrots, baby turnips, baby beets, shallots, radishes, hard-boiled quail eggs

2 cups (480 ml) distilled white vinegar

½ cup (100 g) sugar

2 teaspoons coarse sea salt

1 teaspoon mustard seeds

1 bay leaf

1 small beet, halved

Halve any larger baby carrots, turnips, and beets lengthwise. Thinly slice the shallots and radishes and peel the quail eggs, if using. Put in a quart-size (960-ml) jar and set aside.

In a saucepan, combine the vinegar, sugar, salt, mustard seeds, bay leaf, beet, and 1 cup (240 ml) water. Bring to a boil over high heat, reduce the heat to maintain a simmer, and cook for 20 minutes to meld the flavors. Remove from the heat and let the brine cool completely.

Pour the cooled brine over the items to be pickled and seal the jar. Transfer to the refrigerator and allow to pickle for at least 8 hours before serving.

Storage – Refrigerate for up to 1 month.

Turmeric

2 cups assorted items to be pickled, such as baby carrots, baby turnips, baby beets, radish, hard-boiled quail eggs

2 cups (480 ml) distilled white vinegar

½ cup (100 g) sugar

2 teaspoons coarse sea salt

1 teaspoon mustard seeds

1 bay leaf

4 (2-inch) pieces (55 g) turmeric root, peeled and halved lengthwise

Halve any larger baby carrots, turnips, and beets lengthwise. Thinly slice the shallots and radishes and peel the quail eggs, if using. Put in a quart-size (960-ml) jar and set aside.

In a saucepan, combine the vinegar, sugar, salt, mustard seeds, bay leaf, turmeric root, and 1 cup (240 ml) water. Bring to a boil over high heat, reduce the heat to maintain a simmer, and cook for 20 minutes to meld the flavors. Remove from the heat and let cool completely.

Pour the cooled brine over the items to be pickled and seal the jar. Transfer to the refrigerator and allow to pickle for at least 8 hours before serving.

Storage – Refrigerate for up to 1 month.

Chermoula

Makes about 2¼ cups (540 ml)

With a bit of brightness, this herb concentration is a more Eastern take on a typical salsa verde. We keep it close by to add freshness to otherwise muted meals. It goes well with fish, poultry, and vegetables. You can also mix it into salads, dressings, aiolis, and butters.

1 bunch cilantro

1 bunch mint, leaves removed and stems discarded

1 bunch parsley

2 tablespoons white wine vinegar

Zest and juice of 1 lime

½ teaspoon sea salt

1 cup (240 ml) olive oil

In a food processor, combine the herbs, vinegar, lime zest and juice, and salt. Pulse to combine. With the motor running, add the olive oil in a slow and steady stream until completely incorporated.

Transfer the chermoula to a container, press plastic wrap directly onto the surface to keep it from browning, and refrigerate.

Storage – Refrigerate for 3 to 4 days.

Dukkah

Makes about 1 cup (115 g)

This combination of seeds and spices is a perfect mix of earth-like flavors and textures. Use this on toast, yogurts, and salads.

½ cup (60 g) hazelnuts, finely chopped

½ cup (60 g) walnuts, crushed with a mortar and pestle

½ teaspoon coriander seeds, crushed with a mortar and pestle

¼ cup (40 g) white sesame seeds

¼ teaspoon sea salt

In a small bowl, combine all the ingredients until thoroughly mixed.

Storage – Store in a sealed container at room temperature for 3 to 6 months.

Roasted Beef Broth

Makes about 3 quarts (2.8 L)

This nourishing and beautiful bone broth is roasted and then cooked slowly, bringing out the nutrients and flavors of the bones, marrow, and aromatics. Use this as a base for soups and stews, or for cooking grains. This broth can also be seasoned and sipped on its own to nourish and build immunity in the winter months. Note the beautiful, off-the-bone braised short rib you will be left with after all your hard work and patience. And if you decide to take this to the next level, see this page.

2½ pounds (1.2 kg) bone-in short ribs

2 pounds (910 g) beef knuckle bones

2 tablespoons olive oil

3 large carrots, cut into large chunks

2 large onions, cut into large chunks

1 leek, well washed and cut into large chunks

1 head garlic, unpeeled, halved horizontally

2 tablespoons tomato paste

6 sprigs fresh thyme

½ bunch fresh flat-leaf parsley

2 bay leaves

1 tablespoon whole black peppercorns

Preheat the oven to 450°F (230°C).

In a large roasting pan, toss the short ribs and knuckle bones with 1 tablespoon of the olive oil until coated and arrange in a single layer. Roast, turning once halfway through, for 25 minutes. Add the carrots, onions, leek, and garlic to the pan with the meat and drizzle the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil over top. Return the pan to the oven and roast, tossing the vegetables once halfway through, until starting to brown, 15 to 20 minutes. Add the tomato paste to the pan and toss with the meat and vegetables. Roast for a final 3 to 5 minutes and then remove the pan from the oven.

Using tongs, transfer the roasted bones and vegetables to a large stockpot. Carefully pour 1 quart (960 ml) water into the empty roasting pan and use a wooden spoon to scrape up all the browned bits from the bottom. Pour the water and browned bits into the pot over the meat and vegetables. Pour an additional 1 gallon (3.8 L) water into the pot so that everything is submerged. On a square piece of cheesecloth, place the thyme, parsley, bay leaves, and peppercorns. Gather the edges of the cheesecloth together to form a bundle and tie the top with kitchen twine to close. Add the bundle to the pot.

Heat until just boiling, then immediately reduce the heat to low. Cook at a very gentle simmer for 4 to 6 hours, occasionally skimming any foam or fat from the surface. When finished, the broth will be rich in color and flavor. The longer the broth simmers, the more flavorful and enriched it will be.

Remove the pot from the heat and use tongs to remove and discard the large bones and bundle of herbs. Strain the broth through a fine-mesh sieve and reserve the short rib meat for the beef bowl on this page – this page. If you find the broth to be overly fatty, you can strain it a second time through a cheesecloth to catch any excess fat. Allow to cool completely and transfer to airtight containers to store. Remove any fat that rises to the top before using.

Storage – Refrigerate for 3 to 4 days or freeze for up to 1 year.

Chicken Stock

Makes about 2 quarts (2 L)

This is the quintessential chicken stock to make as the seasons shift. Cooked slowly, the aromatics impart a simple fragrant flavor to the stock. Be sure to season it upon usage or serving. We use this in our soups and dishes to add flavor and aroma.

1 (3- to 4-pound/1.4- to 1.8-kg) whole chicken, quartered

3 carrots, cut into medium chunks

2 onions, cut into medium chunks

3 celery stalks, cut into medium chunks

1 leek, well washed and cut into medium chunks

1 small fennel bulb, including fronds, cored and cut into medium chunks

4 garlic cloves

1 bay leaf

6 sprigs fresh thyme

6 sprigs fresh flat-leaf parsley

½ teaspoon whole black peppercorns

Put all the ingredients in a large stockpot and add enough water to completely cover the ingredients, about 1 gallon (3.8 L). Heat until just boiling, then immediately reduce the heat to low. Cook at a very gentle simmer for 2 hours, occasionally skimming any foam or fat from the surface.

Carefully remove the chicken and reserve the poached meat for another use. Strain the stock through a fine-mesh sieve and allow to cool completely; discard the solids. Transfer the stock to airtight containers to store.

Storage – Refrigerate for 3 to 4 days or freeze for up to 1 year.

Guide to Cooking Legumes + Grains

Below is a guide to how we cook our basic legumes and grains. We like to keep these on hand in our refrigerator for easy meal assembly.

black lentils

In a medium saucepan, combine the lentils and water and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer for 15 minutes. Once tender but still al dente, drain the lentils and transfer to a bowl to cool.

chickpeas

Place the dried chickpeas in a large bowl and cover with 6 cups (1.4 L) water. Set aside to soak overnight.

Drain the soaked chickpeas and rinse them under cold water. Place the chickpeas in a large stockpot and cover with the water for cooking; add 1 teaspoon salt. Bring to a boil over high heat, then reduce the heat and simmer, uncovered, for 1 to 1½ hours, until the chickpeas are cooked to your liking. Drain.

grains

In a medium saucepan, heat 1 tablespoon olive oil over medium-low heat. Add the grain of your choice and toast in the saucepan until lightly golden and fragrant, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the water (or stock) and a pinch of salt and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low, cover, and cook for the time indicated by the chart. Remove from the heat, leave covered for 5 minutes, then fluff the grains before serving or using in a recipe. If you are making farro, simply drain any excess water before serving. If you are cooking more than 1 cup of a grain, use a ratio of 1 cup grain to 1 tablespoon olive oil to toast it.

Legume/grain to water (or stock) ratio:

black lentils

1: 2½ cups (190 g : 600 ml) 15 minutes

chickpeas

1: 3 quarts (185 g : 2.8 L) 1 to 1½ hours

Forbidden Rice*

1: 1½ cups (180 g : 360 ml) 35 minutes

jasmine/basmati rice

1: 1½ cups (180 g : 360 ml) 20 minutes

short-grain brown rice

1: 2 cups (190 g : 480 ml) 45 minutes

farro

1: 3 cups (200 g : 720 ml) 30 minutes

quinoa**

1: 1¾ cups (170 g : 420 ml) 25 minutes

* Make sure to rinse Forbidden Rice until the water runs clear before cooking.

** Make sure to rinse quinoa very well before cooking to remove the naturally occurring but unpleasant-tasting chemical saponin that coats the grains.

 

The second book in the seasonal cooking series by Karen Mordechai of Sunday Suppers, Simple Fare: Fall and Winter is a richly illustrated resource, focused on market-driven cooking. It consists of 65 elegant, streamlined recipes for classic dishes, including Roasted Carrots over Smoked Ricotta Toast; Turkish Poached Eggs and Yogurt; Black Rice Bowl with Hummus, Shishito Peppers, and Buttermilk Meyer Lemon Dressing; Braised Beef Ribs and Beetroot; and more. Detailed instructions for preparing alternative flavor profiles are included for most recipes, allowing readers to easily adapt based on the ingredients at hand. Accented by unforgettable photography that showcases Mordechai’s minimalist style, Simple Fare is an oversize, distinc­tively designed kitchen essential.

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