Sweet (UK Edition) by Yotam Ottolenghi, Helen Goh, AZW3, 1785031147

September 23, 2017

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 Sweet (UK Edition) by Yotam Ottolenghi, Helen Goh, AZW3, 1785031147

Sweet by Yotam Ottolenghi

  • Print Length: 368 Pages
  • Publisher: Ebury Press
  • Publication Date: 7 Sept. 2017
  • Language: English
  • ASIN: B07521VCHD
  • ISBN-10: 1785031147
  • ISBN-13: 978-1785031144
  • File Format: AZW3



About the Book
About the Authors
Title Page
Yotam’s introduction

Cookies and biscuits
Custard Yo-Yos with roasted rhubarb icing
Peanut sandies
Almond, pistachio and sour cherry wafers
Cranberry, oat and white chocolate biscuits
Chocolate chip and pecan cookies
Cats’ tongues
Chocolate, banana and pecan cookies
Brown butter almond tuiles
Gevulde Speculaas
Speculaas biscuits
Amaretti with honey and orange blossom
Soft gingerbread tiles with rum butter glaze
Soft date and oat bars
Orange and star anise shortbread
Chocolate and peanut butter s’mores
‘Anzac’ biscuits (aka Honey, oat and raisin cookies)
Chocolate ‘O’ cookies
Pecan snowballs
Not-quite-Bonnie’s rugelach

Persian love cakes
Saffron, orange and honey madeleines
Lemon and raspberry cupcakes
Powder puffs
Tahini and halva brownies
Lemon, blueberry and almond ‘teacakes’
Hazelnut crumble cake with Gianduja (or Nutella) icing
Baby black and orange cakes
Strawberry and vanilla mini-cakes
Victoria sponge with strawberries and white chocolate cream
Banana cakes with rum caramel
Blackberry and star anise friands
Coffee and walnut financiers
Flourless chocolate ‘teacakes’
Lemon and semolina syrup cakes
Roma’s doughnuts with saffron custard cream
Chocolate Guinness cakes with Baileys Irish Cream

Rum and raisin cake with rum caramel icing
Prune cake with Armagnac and walnuts
Parsnip and pecan cake with aniseed and orange
Beetroot, ginger and soured cream cake
Apple and olive oil cake with maple icing
Vineyard cake (aka Cleopatra cake)
Butternut, honey and almond
Pineapple, pecan and currant
Banana, date and walnut
Grappa fruit cake
Lemon and blackcurrant stripe cake
Rhubarb and strawberry crumble cake
Coconut, almond and blueberry cake
Take-home chocolate cake
Apricot and almond cake with cinnamon topping
Pistachio roulade with raspberries and white chocolate
Tropical fruit cake
Pistachio and rose water semolina cake
Festive fruit cake
Flourless chocolate layer cake with coffee, walnuts and rose water
Louise cake with plum and coconut
Almond butter cake with cardamom and baked plums
Pineapple and star anise chiffon cake
Coffee and cardamom pound cake
Neapolitan pound cake (for the family)
Tessa’s spice cake
Lemon and poppy seed cake (National Trust version)
Belinda’s flourless coconut and chocolate cake
Celebration cake

Lime meringue cheesecakes
White chocolate cheesecake with cranberry compote
Passionfruit cheesecake with spiced pineapple
Baked ricotta and hazelnut cheesecake
Fig, orange and mascarpone cheesecake
Chocolate banana ripple cheesecake
Apricot and Amaretto cheesecake
Roasted strawberry and lime cheesecake

Tarts and pies
Rhubarb and blueberry galette
Little baked chocolate tarts with tahini and sesame brittle (or marmalade)
Mont Blanc tarts
Chai brûlée tarts
Chocolate tart with hazelnut, rosemary and orange
Walnut and black treacle tarts with crystallized sage
Fig and pistachio frangipane tartlets
Schiacciata with grapes and fennel seeds
Apricot and thyme galettes with polenta pastry
Pineapple tartlets with pandan and star anise

Rolled pavlova with peaches and blackberries
Gingerbread with brandy apples and crème fraîche
Ricotta crêpes with figs, honey and pistachio
Rice pudding with roasted rhubarb and tarragon
Cape gooseberry pavlova
Hot chocolate and lime puddings
Ginger crème caramel
Yoghurt panna cotta with basil and crushed strawberries
Kaffir lime leaf posset with fresh papaya
Sticky fig pudding with salted caramel and coconut topping
Pot barley pudding with roasted apples and date syrup
Cinnamon pavlova, praline cream and fresh figs
Knickerbocker glory
Frozen espresso parfait for a crowd
Saffron and almond ice cream sandwich
Campari and grapefruit sorbet
Prickly pear sorbet
Lemon, yoghurt and juniper berry ice cream
Chocolate, rose and walnut ice cream

Saffron and pistachio brittle
Raspberry lollipops
Woodland meringues
Spiced praline meringues
Pecan and Prosecco truffles
Chocolate-coated ruby red grapefruit peel
Almond and aniseed nougat
Chocolate panforte with oranges and figs
Sesame brittle
Coconut meringue brittle
Honey, macadamia and coconut caramels
Middle Eastern millionaire’s shortbread

Baker’s tips and notes


My first job in a professional kitchen was whisking
egg whites. Yes, just that. It was the 1990s and I was
doing my training as a chef during the day, and
assisting the pastry chef in a fancy central London
restaurant at night. On the dessert section most of
the work is done before service starts. Since I was so
junior and tended to do the late shift, there was one
job I spent a lot of time doing: beating egg whites to
order for our very popular vanilla soufflés. By the
end of three months, I was a bona fide expert in the
right consistency of egg whites needed for the
perfect soufflé.

It must be fate then, or some kind of direction from above, that I ended up
making my name on egg whites, sugar and lots and lots of air. The famously
giant Ottolenghi meringues, which have adorned our windows for many years,
have become our trademark. I am crediting this to divine intervention, rather
than all of my whisking, because it would not have been my plan-A for
Ottolenghi to be referred to, by some, as ‘the meringue shop’. There are worse
names to be called, I know, but my ambivalence towards them is no secret. I do
actually love meringue, just not so much of it! The Louise Cake here, for example,
wearing a white crown of meringue on its head and gilded with flaky almonds
and bits of delicious coconut, is, in fact, one of my favourite cakes in the book.
Looking beyond the Ottolenghi window, or, rather, through it, it wouldn’t
have been hard to spot my love for all things sweet and the fact that I eventually
honed my skills as a pastry chef beyond the holy trinity of egg white, sugar and
air. Sitting alongside our grilled vegetables, grain salads and the rest of the
savoury dishes inspired by Sami Tamimi’s and my childhoods in Jerusalem, were
a bunch of sweet treats that were not at all fluffy or airy. Fruit galettes, little
cheesecakes, Amaretti cookies, danishes and muffins, tarts filled with citrusy
curds and all manner of chocolate delights: these were rapidly rallying a crowd
of lively devotees keen to augment their salad box with a little (or big) sweet
In fact, it was precisely this juxtaposition of good, yet different, things –
strikingly appetizing salads alongside wonderful, hand-crafted sweet treats –
that has come to define the Ottolenghi experience. And by ‘good things’ I mean
anything that is freshly made, with love, a bit of flair, real ingredients and lots of
attention to detail.

Helen’s arrival
I assume that it is this tacit philosophy – plus the window, no doubt – that
attracted Helen to Ottolenghi and brought her to us as soon as she had come off
the proverbial boat from Australia in 2006.
I can actually remember getting a phone call from her and then meeting for
the first time outside one of our shops, hearing her story and not quite
understanding what drives such a star to leave behind a very successful career –
Helen’s professional history both as a pastry chef and as a psychotherapist is
remarkable – in a very sunny Melbourne in favour of a rather elusive future in a
rather grey London.
It took seeing Helen at work – first cooking savoury food with Sami in
Notting Hill and running our Kensington kitchen, later spending much of her
time dreaming up pastries, cakes and all manner of sweet things for the
company – for the penny to drop. I finally realized that it was Helen’s
restlessness and her insatiable drive for perfection that had brought her to us.
What we shared, which Helen had identified right from the start and I took a bit
longer to realize, was the notion that there is no upper limit to the number of
times you can bake a cake or the amount of thought that can go into the
components of a tart in order to get it just right; that you can discuss the
minutiae of a chocolate ice cream or a nut brittle as if the fate of the entire
universe rests on the conversation, without worrying for a second that this may
be, just may be, a tiny bit over the top.
This kind of intensity and commitment has been a constant throughout
Helen’s different roles in Ottolenghi. Over the years she has been involved in
creating canapés, testing breakfast dishes, trying out salads and offering her
insights into anything, really, that appeared on our menus or was placed on our
shelves and required the kind of depth and breadth of knowledge of food that
she has. More than anything else, though, it is with her cakes – a term I use very
loosely here, to mean anything from a dreamy chocolate chip cookie, to a light-
as-a-feather meringue roulade, to a rum and raisin bundt with caramel dripping
down its sides – that Helen carved her inspired mark on our food.

Our tasting sessions
Forming friendships and collaborations around a spread of food is the
Ottolenghi way. I bonded with Sami in this way all those years ago, then with
Ramael Scully, co-author of NOPI: The cookbook, who taught me to love miso
and appreciate a few new cooking techniques. My friendship with Helen was
mostly formed around a piece of cake.
Here is an image that I can’t shake: it’s a Sunday afternoon, around 4pm
probably; my husband Karl looks out the window of our first-floor West London
flat, an expression of clear foreboding appears on his face and then, very quietly,
he says: ‘Helen’s here . . . with her cakes.’ Helen then walks through our front
door like a gust of wind or, rather, an over-zealous dusting of icing sugar,
carrying more brown carton boxes than humanly possible and, before even
setting them down, begins apologizing for all the things that went wrong with
her cakes. This one hasn’t risen properly, the other bowed around the centre, an
icing has split halfway through its application, a sabayon lost its air, a sorbet
failed to churn, a sugar syrup crystallized, a cookie crumbled and so on and on
and on.
Helen would then open up her boxes and take out what seemed like at least
three solid days’ worth of standing in the kitchen and baking. In one Sunday
session we could, very easily, sample three versions apiece of two cakes-in-
progress, each with its own minuscule variation (one flavoured with vanilla, for
example, the other with pandan, the third with Chinese five-spice), a biscuit
Helen had in America, tried at home and wanted to Ottolenghify, a couple of
confectionery items (say, a chocolate-nut brittle and an Italian nougat), three
flavours of summer cordials, and, to round it all up nicely, she would quickly
cook up a batter she’d brought with her for a new pancake or waffle to add to
Islington’s breakfast menus.
You’d think there’s a touch of embellishment here but there really isn’t, I
promise. The sinking of Karl’s heart was entirely justified. It had nothing to do,
though, with the cakes that failed – according to Helen – or the cookies that
crumbled, and everything to do with how hard it was to stop yourself indulging
in all those incredible sugary pleasures. Helen’s ‘failures’, you see, are the stuff
the sweetest of dreams are made of for mere mortals. Our Sunday afternoons
tended to end up with all participants nearing a perfect state of sugar-induced

This book
Many of the cakes in this book are a result of those elated Sunday sessions. Items
that eventually received our seal of approval, after endless tests and infinite
discussions, were, if I may say so myself, pretty magnificent. Other recipes are
older, going back to the early days of Ottolenghi. Those evolved organically in
our stores, based on feedback from our customers and staff. Many were brought
to us by a great number of talented pastry chefs who have worked with us over
the years; we acknowledge them with gratitude in the introductions to the
recipes. Some recipes have been developed especially for the book, when we felt
we were missing a particular angle, a specific style of cake, or just something that
we love to eat and that happened to be sweet.
What all of the recipes share is having been through the full Ottolenghi
treatment, which is exactly the way I described a ‘good thing’ earlier: they were
all conceived with love and a bit of flair and made with real ingredients and lots
of attention to detail. I feel confident that you’ll be able to find all of these
components in each of our ‘cakes’ here.

One final note
These days, my tastings with Helen are not quite the same as they used to be. I
suspect it’s to do with the fact that we both became parents in recent years.
In our first meeting after Helen’s Sam was born, the three-week-old was
resting in his Moses basket next to us while Helen and I were debating the merits
of different consistencies of marshmallow for making s’mores. To my regret, I
sent an offhand tweet reporting that an infant is the third wheel in our regular
tastings, only to receive a bunch of grave warnings from concerned followers
about the fatal risks of feeding cakes to newborns.
Setting aside this particular mishap, Sam and his brother Jude’s arrival and,
later on, the birth of my boys, Max and Flynn, did slightly alter the nature of our
meetings. Our attention now has to be harnessed and somewhat focused,
deliberations are shorter and, unconsciously, we find our cakes a bit more child-
friendly (you wouldn’t know that, though, looking at the number of cakes in the
book with serious quantities of booze in them). Children’s birthday parties are
now natural testing grounds for sponges and the boys themselves are some of
our fiercest critics. Just the other day I offered Max a slice of cake, to which he
quickly replied: ‘Did Helen make it?’ ‘I am afraid not,’ I said. ‘No, then,’ was his
resolute and final answer. What a few years back may have been a very lengthy
discussion was over before it had even started. Having been put so clearly in my
place, all I could do was go back to the kitchen and whip up some egg whites.



‘There’s nothing like a perfectly light sponge flavoured with spices and citrus or an icing-sugar-dusted cookie to raise the spirits and create a moment of pure joy.’

In his stunning new baking and desserts cookbook Yotam Ottolenghi and his long-time collaborator Helen Goh bring the Ottolenghi hallmarks of fresh, evocative ingredients, exotic spices and complex flavourings – including fig, rose petal, saffron, aniseed, orange blossom, pistachio and cardamom – to indulgent cakes, biscuits, tarts, puddings, cheesecakes and ice cream.

Sweet includes over 110 innovative recipes, from Blackberry and Star Anise Friands, Tahini and Halva Brownies, Persian Love Cakes, Middle Eastern Millionaire’s Shortbread, and Saffron, Orange and Honey Madeleines to Flourless Chocolate Layer Cake with Coffee, Walnut and Rosewater and Cinnamon Pavlova with Praline Cream and Fresh Figs.

There is something here to delight everyone – from simple mini-cakes and cookies that parents can make with their children to showstopping layer cakes and roulades that will reignite the imaginations of accomplished bakers.

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