Terroir and Other Myths of Winegrowing by Mark A. Matthews [ebook library free]


  • Full Title : Terroir and Other Myths of Winegrowing
  • Autor: Mark A. Matthews
  • Print Length: 328 pages
  • Publisher: University of California Press; First edition
  • Publication Date: 
  • Language: English
  • ISBN-10: 0520276957
  • ISBN-13: 978-0520276956
  • Download File Format: epub

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"A must-read for any wine grape grower or winemaker who has ever wrestled with the most important myths of winegrowing or debated them with colleagues—and that would be all of us! It is also a great read for any wine consumer interested in looking at 'the man behind the curtain,' so to speak: the myths promoted by wine writers, tasting room staff, sommeliers and other wine gatekeepers."—Wines & Vines

"A meticulously researched volume that every serious sommelier should read . . . if only to disagree." —The Somm Journal

Wine is a traditional product with traditional explanations. Oft-romanticized, Old World notions of how to create fine wine have been passed down through generations and continue to dominate popular discussions of wine quality. However, many of these beliefs predate science and remain isolated from advances in the understanding of how crops grow and fruit ripens. Allegiance to them has frequently impeded open-minded investigation into how grapevines interact with the environment, thus limiting innovation in winegrowing.
 
In Terroir and Other Myths of Winegrowing, Mark A. Matthews applies a scientist’s skepticism and scrutiny to examine widely held beliefs about viticulture. Is terroir primarily a marketing ploy that obscures understanding of which environments really produce the best wine? Is reducing yield an imperative for high quality grapes and wine? What does it mean to have vines that are balanced or grapes that are physiologically mature? Matthews explores and dissects these and other questions to debunk the myths of winegrowing that may be holding us back from achieving a higher wine quality.

 

Review

"Get ready to have some sacred cows of the wine trade –terroir, anyone?– toppled."

 

(Wine School of Philadelphia, Wine Gift Guide for 2015 2015-12-10)

"A must-read for any wine grape grower or winemaker who has ever wrestled with the most important myths of winegrowing or debated them with colleagues—and that would be all of us! It is also a great read for any wine consumer interested in looking at 'the man behind the curtain,' so to speak: the myths promoted by wine writers, tasting room staff, sommeliers and other wine gatekeepers."
(Wines & Vines 2016-03-01)

"I came away from reading Matthews’ essay on terroir more thoroughly convinced than ever that the idea of 'terroir' is likely the most abused and often most useless word in the world of wine. . . . 'Terroir and Other Myths of Winegrowing' is a book that is well worth reading, particularly by those who work in the wine industry either in the vineyard, in the cellar or in marketing."
(Tom Wark Fermentation:The Daily Wine Blog 2016-04-04)

"A meticulously researched volume that every serious sommelier should read . . . if only to disagree."
(The Somm Journal 2016-08-01)

"Will force you to reconsider everything you know (or thought you knew) about winemaking. . . . Compelling, expertly researched, and just may prove to be one of the most disruptive works of wine literature ever written."
(Terroirist 2016-12-05)

"Beautiful, useful and highly entertaining."
(Journal of Wine Economics 2016-12-01)

"We should all read this book. We need to know what all the arguments are, and be prepared, especially when teaching or writing, to offer both schools of thought. But what I'd most like is for this to pave the way for some meaty, white-hot scientific debate. Subpoenas going out in the post."
(JancisRobinson.com 2016-12-30)

From the Inside Flap

“Mark Matthews’ quest to uncover the truth about our cherished beliefs about wine is provoking, stimulating, and full of fresh insights—read it and rethink your terroir!”—Markus Keller, author of The Science of Grapevines

“Matthews’ book flays, or in some instances eviscerates, common tenets of today’s viticulture and enology. This book should be required reading for all students of vine and wine, whether researcher, producer, or pundit.”—Sara E. Spayd, Professor/Extension Viticulturist at North Carolina State University

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Keywords

seafood, gluten free meals, blueberry pancake recipe, fruits and vegetables, i got the juice,
s on a foil-lined 18-by-26-by-1-inch sheet pan coated Asparagus and Parmesan Frittata

with cooking spray. Evenly top each waffle with cheese and turkey.

12 ounces trimmed asparagus

3. Combine sour cream,egg substitute,salt,garlic powder and pepper 2 tablespoons olive oil

in a bowl and spread evenly over the waffles.

1 garlic clove, minced

4. Bake for 25 minutes,or until set and lightly browned.Serve hot.

Salt and black pepper

Makes 12 servings.

16 ounces Kirkland Signature™ Egg Starts

1/2 cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese

1 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves

Parmigiano-Reggiano shavings

Fresh thyme sprigs

1. Cut asparagus stems into 1/4-inch slices;leave tips whole.

2. Heat oil in a large skillet over medium heat.Add asparagus;cook for 3 minutes, or until crisp-tender. Add garlic and cook for 30 seconds.

Season to taste with salt and pepper.

3. In a bowl,combine Egg Starts and grated cheese;add to the skillet.Reduce heat and cook until eggs are set on the bottom and around the edges.Sprinkle thyme leaves over eggs. Lift the sides, allowing the mixture to flow under the edges until no longer runny. Sprinkle with cheese shavings to taste.

4. Cover and cook over low heat for 10 minutes,or until set.Loosen edges, slide onto a serving plate and garnish with thyme sprigs. Serve warm or at room temperature. Makes 4 servings.

Easy Cooking The Costco Way

11

p012-013_Breakfasts 9/28/04 12:00 PM Page 12

Breakfast I

HORMEL

LAND O’ LAKES

Scrambled Bacon Burritos

Cottage Cheese Muffins

1 tablespoon oil

1/4 cup granulated sugar

1 cup sliced green bell pepper

1 3/4 teaspoons ground cinnamon, divided

1 cup sliced fresh mushrooms

1 cup Land O Lakes* Cottage Cheese

1/2 cup sliced red onion

1/2 cup firmly packed brown sugar

1 teaspoon minced garlic

1/3 cup Land O Lakes* Fresh Buttery Taste Spread

6 eggs, beaten

2 eggs

6 8-inch flour tortillas

1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour

1 1/2 cups shredded Colby and Monterey Jack cheese

1 teaspoon baking soda

3 1/2 ounces (1/2 cup) Hormel* Premium Crumbled Bacon or 1/2 cup raisins

Kirkland Signature/Hormel fully cooked bacon, crumbled Chi-Chi’s* salsa

1. Preheat oven to 375°F.

Sour cream

2. Combine granulated sugar and 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon in a small bowl.

Set aside.

1. Preheat oven to 350°F.

3. Combine cottage cheese,brown sugar,Fresh Buttery Taste Spread 2. Heat oil in a large skillet over medium heat.Add bell pepper, and eggs in a large bowl. Beat at medium speed until creamy. Add flour, mushrooms, onion and garlic and cook until tender; remove from pan.

1 1/4 teaspoons cinnamon and baking soda; stir just until moistened.

3. Add eggs to pan and cook until lightly scrambled.Stir in vegetables.

Stir in raisins.

4. Spoon eggs down center of each tortilla.Sprinkle with cheese and 4. Spoon batter into 12 paper-lined muffin pan cups.Sprinkle each with bacon. Roll up tortillas and place seam side down in a 9-by-13-inch pan.

1 teaspoon of the topping. Bake for 20-25 minutes, or until lightly browned.

Bake for 5-8 minutes, or until heated through. Serve with salsa and sour Serve warm muffins with Fresh Buttery Taste Spread. Makes 12 muffins.

cream. Makes 6 servings.

* Brands may vary by region; substitute a similar product.

* Brands may vary by region; substitute a similar product.

12

Easy Cooking The Costco Way

p012-013_Breakfasts 9/28/04 12:00 PM Page 13

I Breakfast

SUNSET

1. Preheat oven to 350°F.

Summer Quiche by Mastronardi Produce 2. Cut asparagus into bite-size pieces and blanch in boiling water until tender. Drain, chill in cold water and drain.

1 bunch of asparagus

3. Place bread slices in a greased 9-by-13-inch baking dish.Spread 1 loaf day-old French bread, cut in 1-inch slices

1 small onion, finely chopped

asparagus, onion, peppers, basil and cheese evenly over the bread.

1/

4. In a bowl,whisk together eggs,milk,salt,pepper and mustard; 4 each Sunset red and yellow bell peppers, finely chopped 2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil

pour over the vegetables. Arrange tomatoes evenly on top, covering 1/2 cup shredded Colby cheese

the entire area.

1/2 cup shredded Monterey Jack cheese

5. Bake for 70 minutes,or until lightly browned.This dish can be 1/2 cup shredded Cheddar cheese

refrigerated overnight and baked in the morning. Makes 10 servings.

8 large eggs

2 cups skim milk

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon black pepper

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

10 Sunset Campari tomatoes, sliced

Easy Cooking The Costco Way

13

p014-015_Breakfasts 9/28/04 12:02 PM Page 14

Breakfast I

TARANTINO’S

4. On a lightly floured work surface,roll out each sheet of pastry to Breakfast Turnovers

measure 14 by 14 inches. Cut each sheet of pastry into 4 equal squares.

Divide the filling and shredded cheese evenly among the 8 pastry 1 pound Tarantino’s* breakfast sausag
pasta dough, chinese carryout near me, wine online uk, sanjeev kapoor recipes, cream of mushroom,

wonton soup, twinings tea, where is pizza from, prime rib steak, loose leaf tea,
ers, Gary List, Barry Levenson and his law students at the University of Wisconsin, Scott Sicherer, Ned Groth, Chris Weiss, Mark and Mardi Manary, Andrew F. Smith, Tim Sanders, Gary List, Frank Delfino, Larry Shearon, Paul Kiely, Hunter Yager, Boyd Foster, George Speck, Noel Riley Fitch, Herb Dow, and Bill Marler.

Anita Fore and Michael Gross of the Authors Guild provided solid advice on contract negotiations. Jonathan Kirsch provided helpful legal advice. Carol Eisner was the publicist with the mostest.

The genial Mark Glubke helped me overcome a ferocious case of writer’s block.

Iris Berl gets her standing credit.

David Drum provided moral support during advisory sessions at Señor Fish.

Finally, thanks to Dick Davis, who kept asking me if I’d finished it already and for whom I didn’t finish it on time.

One

PEANUTS 101

About 80 million years ago, the Coastal Plain began to form along the southeastern and Gulf coasts of what’s now the United States. The sandy loam it left behind, along with the warm southern climate, would prove ideal for growing peanuts.

Sandy loam is loose and soft; it looks a little like beach sand but is more nutritious for plants and is found as far inland as the Fall Line, a twenty-mile-wide zone separating the soft sediments of the Coastal Plain from the denser clay soils of the Appalachian foothills. The Fall Line got its name because the junction of Coastal Plain sediments with the crystalline rocks of the foothills gave rise to rapids and waterfalls, as streams unable to erode Piedmont rock easily cut away the softer coastal sediments. In Georgia, the Fall Line runs through Columbus, Macon, Milledgeville, and Augusta, all of which became commercial centers in the nineteenth century because of their position at the upstream limit of navigation.1

In the clays of the Piedmont, shoots from peanut plants that burrow underground to become peanuts find it hard to penetrate the soil. Even if they’re successful, peanuts break off at the stem when harvesters try to pull them from the ground. Just as peanuts aren’t adapted to clay soils, they can’t tolerate excessively sandy soils either, and in Florida, few peanuts are grown south of the Panhandle.

But for all the importance of peanuts to American foodways in general and peanut butter in particular, they aren’t native to the United States. They originated in South America and arrived here obliquely.

The scientific name of the peanut is Arachis hypogaea, bestowed by eighteenth-century Swedish botanist Carl Linnaeus based on the Greek Arachis (weed) and hypogaea (underground chamber). As inelegant as it may sound, the Latin name for peanut means “weed whose fruit grows underground.” The genus Arachis consists of about seventy species of annual and perennial flowering plants in the pea family, with the peanut the most prominent.

Despite their name, peanuts aren’t nuts. They’re legumes, more closely related botanically to peas, beans, clover, and alfalfa than to walnuts and almonds, which have hard shells and grow on trees. “Peanuts are not nuts,” an article in Consumer Bulletin once noted, “and peanut butter is not butter.”2

Plants in the genus Arachis originated in the Gran Pantanal, the world’s largest wetland, occupying between 50,000 and 75,000 square miles in parts of tropical Brazil, Bolivia, and Paraguay. According to Argentine botanist Antonio Krapovickas, cultivated peanuts likely originated in Bolivia,3 at the base of the Andes or in the Andean foothills; a wide variety of peanut plants are found in this area.

It’s difficult to pick an epicenter for the origin of the cultivated peanut with any precision, although a good candidate might be Bolivia’s Amboro National Park, where three different ecosystems intersect: the foothills of the Andes, the northern expanse of the Gran Chaco (the hot, semi-arid lowlands surrounding the Rio de la Plata), and the Amazon Basin. The diversity of uses for peanuts in Bolivia indicates they’ve been part of the local culture for a long time: they’re used in chichi de mani, a nonalcoholic drink; soap is produced from them in the province of Santa Cruz de la Sierra; and in the woodland zone of northern Bolivia, natives eat the entire peanut, shell and all, at the stage when the shell is still juicy.4

Runners and Virginias, the two most common types of peanuts grown in the United States, are almost identical and have the same botanical name, Arachis hypogaea hypogaea. The two other kinds of peanuts grown in the United States, Spanish and Valencia, are from the fastigiata branch of the family.

The greatest number of varieties of Spanish peanuts has been found in Paraguay and the adjoining provinces of Brazil, and Krapovickas believes that Spanish peanuts originated in Brazil.5 They were introduced into the United States in 1871, shipped out of Málaga, Spain,6 and arrived just in time to find useful employment in the production of peanut butter, which began in the 1890s. In combinati
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t oil has the most lauric acid of any component of the coconut. A medium-chain saturated fat, coconut oil should not be confused with other sources of saturated fat, which are unhealthy. The medium chain fat in coconut oil is easy to digest and is converted to energy rather than stored as fat in the body. Coconut oil actually increases your metabolism while protecting against bacteria and viruses. I prefer Tropical Traditions coconut oil.

D. Coconut flour. Approximately 20% protein and 50% fiber (more fiber than any other flour), it also contains 5% iron. Does it seem expensive? Don’t worry—a little goes a long way, and most of my recipes call for about half of a cup. I use Tropical Traditions coconut flour.

E. Coconut Butter/Cream Concentrate. Made from fresh or dried coconut meat, this butter/concentrate is mostly fat, but also contains protein, fiber, vitamins, and minerals. It can be purchased raw from fresh coconut meat or not raw from dried coconut. You can also make coconut butter yourself. My friend, Lexie, (LexiesKitchen.com) has a great tutorial on her site for making it. I buy Artisana (coconut butter) or Tropical Traditions (cream concentrate).

F. Shredded unsweetened coconut. I use Tropical Traditions.

A. Raw honey. I use Mudhava. Another good one is Clark’s.

B. Nut/seed butters. I use organic SunButter (sunflower seed butter), Artisana Raw Almond Butter, Artisana Macadamia Butter with Cashews, and Artisana Cashew Butter. You can make all these yourself in a food processor fitted with an S blade. If you make them yourself, don’t add anything to the nuts/seeds. Just process, scrape the sides, and process again until you have butter. It will take about twenty minutes. Always store nut/seed butters in the refrigerator because they will become rancid otherwise.

C. Soft Medjool dates. I buy them in health food stores and from iHerb.com.

D. Arrowroot flour/starch. I buy it at health food stores and from iHerb.com.

E. Golden flax seeds. I buy them at health food stores and from iHerb.com.

F. Chia seeds. I usually use white chia seeds from a health food store or from iHerb.com. To make chia meal, grind the seeds in a coffee grinder or mini blender.

G. Nut flour. I buy Bob’s Red Mill and Honeyville almond flours, and I make my own walnut, hazelnut, and macadamia nut flours in the food processor fitted with an S blade.

H. Soft vanilla beans. I buy Starwest Botanicals organic vanilla beans on Amazon.com. After scraping out the seeds, you can save vanilla pods in an airtight container and use them to infuse hot chocolate.

I. Organic fair trade cocoa powder. Raw cacao powder is made without roasting the cacao beans. I buy both powders from iHerb.com.

J. Coconut sugar. This sweetener comes from the sap of the flowering branch of the coconut tree. Once the flowering branch is tapped, the sap flows for twenty years, making it extremely sustainable. The sugar is created by boiling the sap for a short period until the liquid evaporates and crystals form. Coconut sugar is low on the glycemic index and is rich in vitamins and minerals, as opposed to refined sugars which have been depleted of nutritional value. I buy it at health food stores and from iHerb.com.

K. Liquid vanilla stevia. Stevia is an herb that you can grow yourself and eat the leaves! It scores a zero on the glycemic index, and its sweetness is extremely concentrated. There is no equal substitution. I much prefer NuNaturals and NOW Foods brands, which I buy at health food stores or on iHerb.com.

L. Chocolate bars. For homemade dark and white chocolate bar recipes, (See here). For store-bought, see here.

M. Organic raw cacao butter. I buy the Tisano brand on Amazon.com.

TECHNIQUES & TROUBLESHOOTING

OVEN TEMPERATURE

If your baked goods come out burned or undercooked, there are two possible explanations:

Your oven is lying to you. (That was supposed to be funny, but it’s actually true.) For one thing, when the oven beeps to tell you that it has reached the desired temperature, it most likely hasn’t. It may be as much as 50°F below temperature when it beeps. Even when your oven has been heating for 30 minutes or more, it may be completely off the projected temperature. My last oven ran hot, and my new one runs cool. The easiest way to ensure that your oven is at the correct temperature is to buy an oven thermometer. They cost about $20.

VOLUME & WEIGHT

Using volume (cups) is not as accurate as using weight (ounces and grams). For example, I might measure a cup of nut flour that weighs 100 grams, while the cup I measured the week before weighed closer to 120 grams. Strange, but true. This is probably due to moisture (or lack thereof) and pressure (how firmly you pack your cups). The bottom line is that weight is much more precise than volume. All you have to do is buy an inexpensive kitchen scale ($25 and up), or you can use a scale meant for mail like I do (less than $20).

NO CHOCOLATE CHIPS?

You may notice that I don’t use store-bought c

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