The Derrydale Game Cookbook by L. P. De Gouy [free pdf books download]


  • Full Title : The Derrydale Game Cookbook
  • Autor: L. P. De Gouy
  • Print Length: 308 pages
  • Publisher: Derrydale Press
  • Publication Date: September 5, 2000
  • Language: English
  • ISBN-10: 1586670085
  • ISBN-13: 978-1586670085
  • Download File Format: azw3

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This is a no-nonsense, practical guide to cooking virtually every kind of wild game with everything from simple recipes to gourmet level preparation.

 

Review

The Derrydale Game Cookbook by L. P. De Gouy is the creme de la creme of all game cookery. … Frankly, it contains all you need to know about preparing wild game-maybe more than you need to know, which is not a negative comment. (Bill Porter, Carlisle Sentinel)

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should be followed in the kitchen. Here are a few of the most important:

LEARNING TO COOK: Over the years, novices have asked me quite simply, “But how do I learn to cook?” I tell them to sit down and make a list of the ten things they most love to eat. It may be French fries or a lemon tart. A perfect puff pastry or chocolate cake. I suggest the list be varied (not all desserts, please). Then, as though you are a pianist learning to play a piece of music, you cook, cook, cook! Practice that first recipe until you feel you have mastered it, or at least have made it taste as good as you think you can at this point. Then move on to the second recipe on the list, and so on. By the time you have reached the tenth recipe, you will have a basic repertoire. Then, of course, make another list of ten and continue the process.

READ THE RECIPE: Most mistakes are made by not reading the recipe carefully or visualizing the final product. I take great care in recipe writing (and constant rewriting) to make every step as clear as possible, making it easier on everyone, giving us all a chance of success in the end.

MISE EN PLACE: meaning “everything in place.” In my cooking school as well as when I am cooking by myself, recipes are enclosed in a small plastic folder, and all ingredients are measured and set out neatly on a tray. This way, if I use up the last egg or drop of vanilla extract, those ingredients are instantly written out on the shopping list hanging in the kitchen. Mise en place means the cook has not only weighed, measured, washed, and chopped, but has checked the recipe for any missing ingredients, lined up equipment such as spatulas and blenders, and preheated the oven if necessary. Mise en place also makes for a neater kitchen, and I find that when the kitchen is neat, there is less chance for disaster or hysteria. (There’s another advantage to all that pre-measuring and collecting of ingredients: If you put something in the oven and turn around to find you’ve forgotten an important ingredient, you can most likely go back to the drawing board and repair any potential mistakes.)

USE THE RIGHT KNIFE OR PAN FOR THE TASK: Over and over again I find that students choose a knife too small for the task, or a pan that is much too skimpy for whatever is to be cooked in it. I don’t know if it is out of a sense of economy, but I always suggest cooks visualize what the end product should look like and go from there.

TASTE, TASTE, TASTE: Often a student will come to me, proudly presenting his or her creation, and when I ask, “Did you taste it?,” more often than not, the answer is no.

COLD FOR COLD, HOT FOR HOT: My freezer always holds small teacups used for serving sorbets, and before preparing cold soups I also place shallow soup bowls in the freezer so at serving time there is no loss of that precious chilled temperature. A warming drawer is always at hand so that hot food can be served on hot plates, but an oven on low heat (250°F; 130°C) will suffice.

MENU PLANNING: I put a lot of emphasis on seasonal menu planning. In fact, with each week’s class I try to work each and every totally seasonal ingredient into the mix, including fish and shellfish, fruits and vegetables, meats and herbs. In the summer, I almost always start with a cold soup, most of which can be prepared ahead of time. A vegetarian menu might be centered around my favorite “pizza pasta,” penne that’s teamed up with my favorite pizza topping of tomatoes, olives, artichokes, and capers.

From the beginning, my goal is for the students to leave the class eager and ready to make every dish we create during the week. There is nothing worse than tasting something and saying to yourself, “This is okay, but I wouldn’t make it again.” So there are many crowd-pleasers, but both simple and complex, ranging from a quick but very doable puff pastry to easy-as-pie dessert squares made with fragrant chestnut honey and almonds.

BEST TASTE OF THE WEEK AND TAKEAWAYS: At the end of our final meal on Friday, everyone gets to vote on Best Taste of the Week. At the same time, I ask students about their takeaway from the week, the one truc or idea, concept or cooking skill, that will remain with them long after we’ve parted ways.

Interestingly, tops on the Best Taste of the Week list are always soups (both cold and warm) and sorbets. Many perennial favorite recipes are included here (such as the Miniature Onion and Goat Cheese Tatins; the Tomato Trio of Yellow Tomato Soup with Evergreen Tomato Tartare and Red Tomato Sorbet; Tomato Tatins; Eggplant in Spicy Tomato Sauce with Feta; Mussels with Lemon, Capers, Jalapeño, and Cilantro; Open Ravioli with Mushrooms; Saffron and Honey Brioche; and Chestnut Honey Squares).

In all classes we focus on the simple (but often mishandled) craft of the proper cutting of vegetables, and for many students that’s a big takeaway of the week. Another technique I try to instill in students’ minds is what I call the “cold pan technique.” Rather than placing oil or butter in a pan, heating it up, and then adding, say, minced garlic or chopped onions, I add the oil, garlic, onions, and a touch of salt all together and “sweat” the entire combination, covered, over low heat to form a soft and succulent flavor base for the rest of the recipe to come. This priceless tip is always at the top of the takeaway list, along with the ease of making a multiple variety of sorbets; the use of a steamer, and steaming on a bed of herbs; the joys of cooking with a good copper pan; and of course the all-important mise en place. Best of all, students leave with a newfound sense of confidence in the kitchen.

WINE: Wine plays a big role in our lives and in the cooking school as well. When students arrive for the first day’s class, a crisp new white apron embroidered with their name awaits them, along with a booklet of recipes with the program for the week. I tell them that the most important page in the book is the Importers List. Over the years I have found that there are a dozen or so United States importers—among them our own Clos Chanteduc importer, Eric Solomon, and longtime friend Kermit Lynch—whom I respect and whose taste in wine I share. I tell everyone, if you want to learn about wine, go to your local wine store (or stores) with the list and simply ask: “What wines do you have from any of these importers?” Take half a dozen bottles home, and taste these wines. You’ll be sure to find something you like. Repeat this enough times, and soon you’ll have a more educated, well-rounded wine palate. Not to mention the pleasures of the exercise! And please don’t forget the all-important “proper” wineglass. It does not have to be fancy or expensive, just large enough to swirl, add a bit of air to the wine, and open it up for fuller tasting and pleasure.

AESTHETICS: For cooking to be truly pleasurable for me, it must be aesthetic. I pay careful attention to each knife, bowl, pan, and utensil in my kitchen. Some objects are loved for nostalgic reasons (a wonderful worn chopping board made by my father-in-law a half-century ago), others for their sheer efficiency (a serrated tomato knife, a thin and sleek ceramic knife for chopping, an all-purpose knife we bought for about a dollar in Vietnam, yet worth its weight in gold).

I like work bowls to be white and ceramic and if at all possible made by a potter I know. The connection between the maker and the user can be strong and powerful and can add even more pleasure to the cooking process itself.

At the table, I follow suit. I rarely use patterned linens or tableware, for I prefer solid colors—preferably crisp white—to serve as a clean, uncluttered, noncompetitive background for the food.

COLLECTIONS: I am a collector: white porcelain pots for cooking, a battery of colorful mise en place bowls for the kitchen, cutting boards and well-worn containers for butcher’s string, even a set of metal pastry scrapers found in a flea market in Florence. It’s not just that all these objects are practical and useful; they add a touch of pleasure to the day-to-day cooking process. Over the years I have gathered an extensive collection of table linens, napkin rings, knife rests, embroidered napkins, and place mats. I do sometimes go a bit overboard with detail (rabbit knife rests for a rabbit dish; napkins colorfully embroidered with various poultry to use when serving chicken, duck, squab, or guinea fowl), but as the saying goes, “God is in the details,” and the more one pays attention to what’s on the plate and on the table, the more everyone gets from the overall experience.

PARIS OR PROVENCE?: The school year begins in January in Provence, with my favorite class of all, the Black Truffle Extravaganza. In spring, we generally offer three weeklong classes in Paris, then several early and late summer classes in Provence.

The recipes in this book reflect what we cook in both Paris and Provence. Most of the appetizers can be made in any season, so appear on the menus in both places. The long spring asparagus season means we can use the first-of-season vegetables from late February to June to prepare the favored Provençal Lemon-Braised Asparagus. Spring in Paris will always mean Yveline’s Chilled Cucumber and Avocado Soup with Avocado Sorbet, as well as the refreshing Salmon Sashimi with an Avalanche of Herbs. From summer through autumn all the tomato favorites appear on the table in Provence, along with the recipes that include mussels, eggplant, fennel, and zucchini.

In the end, no matter where we are cooking together, it really is all about the joys of combining good food, good wine, and friends all together around the table. The sensory experience is available to all of us, and my motivation as a journalist and a teacher is to enhance that experience—one we can enjoy day in and day out, anytime.

A WORD ABOUT THE PHOTOS IN THIS BOOK: This is the Wells/Kauck team’s third project together, and for this book we photographed at both our home in Provence and my cooking studio in Paris. As ever, we tried to make the food look as simple and appealing as possible. Everything is photographed in natural light with plates, utensils, tableware, and linens from my own collections.

The crew: photographer Jeff Kauck, Patricia Wells, editorial assistant Emily Buchanan, photo assistant Dana Kauck, editor Walter Wells, food stylist Sue Kauck.

HAM AND CHEESE SQUARES WITH CORNICHONS

Makes 18 squares, to serve 6 to 8

Is there a better palate opener than a single bite of a grilled ham and cheese sandwich, brightened by the tart crunch of a cornichon? Assemble all the ingredients for these baby croque monsieur sandwiches earlier in the day, and then prepare them at the last minute when guests and family are gathering.

EQUIPMENT: A toaster; a nonstick skillet; toothpicks.

4 slices Saffron and Honey Brioche or white bread (pain de mie), crusts removed

2 teaspoons French mustard

2 thin slices best-quality cooked ham, cut to fit 2 slices of the bread

About ¼ cup (30 g) freshly grated Swiss Gruyère cheese or other hard cheese

1 tablespoon (15 g) Clarified Butter or unsalted butter

9 cornichons, halved lengthwise

1. Toast the brioche or bread. Coat one side of each slice with the mustard. Place a slice of ham over the mustard on two of the slices. Sprinkle the cheese over the ham. Place the other slices of bread, mustard-coated side down, on top of the cheese.

2. In the skillet, melt the butter over low heat. Brown the bread evenly on both sides, about 1 minute per side. Cut each sandwich into 9 even squares. Pierce each cornichon half with a toothpick and secure the toothpick to the grilled bread. Arrange on a serving platter and serve warm, offering guests cocktail napkins.

WINE SUGGESTION: Grilled cheese and champagne? Why not? I love Pierre Moncuit’s blanc de blancs, a medium-bodied, clean, and always reliable offering that has a purity that matches just about any opening taste.

Whether testing or re-testing recipes, I always have a written recipe at hand, to consult, correct, embellish. Years ago I found a good solution to keeping them off the counter: these wonderful Page-Ups (originally designed for working at a computer with printed copy) hold the recipe upright and (mostly) out of harm’s way.

ONION AND GRUYÈRE BITES

Makes 16 bites

Think of these delicate bites as French onion soup on a tasty slice of sourdough or buttery brioche. The preparation is open to many variations: add herbs, such as rosemary or sage; add mushrooms, such as button mushrooms or morels; or of course add truffle butter and thin slices of fresh black truffle. The cheese can also be varied: any grated hard cheese works well here, including the peppery Pecorino Romano and the rich French Basque sheep’s milk cheese brebis. For a large party, try many variations so guests can choose their flavor of the night! For a rustic presentation, prepare this on a whole slice of toasted sourdough bread. For a more elegant approach, toast bread or brioche and cut the slices into small rounds.

EQUIPMENT: A steamer; a toaster; a 2 ½-inch (6 ½ cm) round biscuit cutter; a baking sheet lined with baking parchment.

2 medium (about 8 ounces; 250 g) sweet white onions, peeled and cut crosswise into thin rings

2 to 3 slices Saffron and Honey Brioche or sourdough bread

1 to 2 tablespoons (15 to 30 g) unsalted butter

Fine sea salt

Coarse, freshly ground black pepper

1 teaspoon fresh lemon thyme or regular thyme leaves (or minced rosemary or sage)

About ½ cup (60 g) freshly grated Swiss Gruyère cheese or other hard cheese

1. Bring 1 quart (1 l) of water to a simmer in the bottom of the steamer. Place the onions on the steaming rack. Place the rack over the simmering water, cover, and steam until the onions are “al dente,” about 5 minutes. Transfer the onions to a bowl. (The onions can be prepared up to 8 hours in advance. Store in an airtight container in the refrigerator. Bring to room temperature at serving time.)

2. Arrange a rack in the oven about 3 inches (7.5 cm) from the heat source. Preheat the broiler.

3. Toast the brioche or bread. With the biscuit cutter, cut the toast into 16 rounds. Spread the rounds lightly with butter. Arrange the rounds side by side on the baking sheet.

4. Season the onions lightly with salt and generously with pepper. Spoon a tablespoon of the onions on top of the butter on each toast round. Sprinkle with the thyme and grated cheese.

5. Place the baking sheet under the broiler and broil just until the cheese melts, about 1 minute. Serve immediately.

SAUTÉED DATES WITH FENNEL AND WALNUTS

Makes 24 dates

Dried fruits are used freely in our cooking classes, and this is a new variation on an all-time favorite, dates stuffed with almonds. Here walnuts and fennel offer a richness and a pleasant crunch, a nice contrast to the smooth, sweet, and supple dates. Be sure to inform guests that the pit has been removed from the date, or the walnut filling may be rejected! I prefer large, naturally sweet Medjool dates, always a healthy treat.

EQUIPMENT: Toothpicks, for serving.

24 whole Medjool dates

1 teaspoon fennel seeds

24 walnut halves

2 teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil

Coarse, freshly ground black pepper

Fleur de sel or fine sea salt

1. Pit a date but do not cut all the way through. Sprinkle the inside of the date with a few fennel seeds and stuff it with a walnut. Press the date closed. Repeat with the remaining dates.

2. Heat the oil in a frying pan over moderate heat. Add the dates and brown them very lightly, 2 to 3 minutes. Remove from the heat, season with pepper and salt, and transfer to a serving platter. Place a toothpick in each date. Serve warm, offering guests cocktail napkins.

ANCHOVY BITES

Makes 75 pastries, to serve 25 to 30

Students love to make these savory, quick, easy, and satisfying opening acts. Homemade Anchovy Cream is simply spread on top of homemade or prepared puff pastry; the pastry is cut into bite-size rounds, then baked until golden. These are best warm from the oven, but they are also delicious at room temperature or rewarmed at serving time in a low oven. This is a real nothing-goes-to-waste recipe: the “skeleton” of prepared pastry left after cutting out the rounds can be baked until crisp, then broken into shards to shower over salads or soups or to serve simply as a snack.

EQUIPMENT: A 1 ½-inch (3 cm) round biscuit cutter; 2 baking sheets lined with baking parchment.

1 recipe Anchovy Cream

A 14-ounce (400 g) sheet of Blitz Puff Pastry or purchased all-butter puff pastry, thawed (see Note)

1. Evenly center two racks in the oven. Preheat the oven to 375°F (190°C).

2. Spread the Anchovy Cream evenly over the entire sheet of pastry, going right out to the edges. With the biscuit cutter, cut out about 75 rounds of pastry. (Note: You will get the most from the pastry if you begin on the outside and cut rings as tightly as possible from the outside. Then work from the next large inside ring.) Arrange the rounds side by side on one of the baking sheets.

3. Carefully transfer the remaining “skeleton” of dressed pastry to the second baking sheet. Place the baking sheets in the oven and bake until the pastry is puffed and golden, about 10 minutes. Remove from the oven. Serve the appetizer rounds warm or at room temperature. The rounds and the “skeleton” shards can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 2 days.

NOTE: In our tests, we have preferred Dufour brand frozen puff pastry, available at most specialty supermarkets. See www.dufourpastrykitchens.com. Be sure to leave ample time for thawing frozen dough, at least 6 hours in the refrigerator.

ANCHOVY CREAM

Makes ½ cup (125 ml)

Each day in cooking class we prepare at least one or two appetizers, a sign that it’s time to open a bottle of wine and relax. And this is a perennial favorite. Throughout Provence anchoïade (anchovy cream) is a popular starter, often used as a dip for a selection of raw vegetables. Recipes vary dramatically from cook to cook and I like to keep mine simple, with just a trio of ingredients: top-quality anchovy fillets cured in olive oil, capers, and cream.

EQUIPMENT: A mini food processor or a standard food processor fitted with a small bowl.

One 2.82-ounce (80 g) jar Italian anchovy fillets in olive oil (about 20 fillets)

1 tablespoon capers in vinegar, drained

¼ cup (60 ml) light cream or half-and-half

Combine the ingredients in the bowl of the food processor and process to a chunky consistency. Use as a dip for raw vegetables, to prepare Anchovy Bites, or as a sandwich spread. (Store in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.)

CURRIED WALNUTS

Makes 2 cups (250 g)

These appetizer nuts are in the list of Top 10 tastes we love to begin a party or a meal. Homemade Curry Powder and of course really fresh walnuts are The Secret.

EQUIPMENT: A baking sheet.

2 cups (250 g) walnut halves

1 tablespoon tamari or other Japanese soy sauce, preferably organic

2 teaspoons Homemade Curry Powder

1. Center a rack in the oven. Preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C).

2. In a bowl, combine the walnuts and tamari, tossing to coat the nuts evenly. Add the curry powder and toss once more.

3. Spread the nuts in a single layer on the baking sheet. Place in the oven and bake, shaking the sheet from time to time, until the nuts are fragrantly toasted, 8 to 10 minutes. Remove from the oven and transfer the nuts to a dish to cool. (Store in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 1 week.)

TOASTED, SALTED PISTACHIO NUTS

Makes 1 cup (125 g)

The

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