The River Cafe Cook Book by Rose Gray, EPUB, 009180731X

November 3, 2016

00407197

The River Cafe Cook Book by Rose Gray and Ruth Rogers

  • Print Length: 320 Pages
  • Publisher: EBURY PRESS
  • Publication Date: 1995
  • Language: English
  • ASIN: B00CIXIX9C
  • ISBN-10: 009180731X
  • ISBN-13: 978-0091807313
  • File Format: EPUB

 

”Preview”

Contents

Cover

List of Recipes

About the Book

Title Page

Introduction

Soups

Zuppa di Cozze in Bianco

White Mussel Soup

Zuppa di Cozze Piccante

Spicy Mussel Soup

Zuppa Estiva di Cozze

Summer Mussel Soup

Zuppa di Pesce alla Ligure

Ligurian Fish Stew

Zuppa Prosciutto e Piselli

Pea and Prosciutto Soup

Zuppa Estiva di Piselli

Summer Pea Soup

Zuppa di Zucchine

Zucchini Soup

Zuppa di Zucca

Pumpkin Soup

Zuppa di Acetosa e Lenticchie

Lentil and Sorrel Soup

Pappa al Pomodoro

Ribollita

Minestrone Invernale

Winter Minestrone

Minestrone Estivo

Summer Minestrone

Zuppa di Fagioli Cannellini

Cannellini Bean Soup

Zuppa di Fave Secche

Dried Broad Bean Soup

Pasta e Fagioli

Pasta and Bean Soup

Zuppa di Mammole e Tompinambur

Globe and Jerusalem Artichoke Soup

Zuppa dei Poveri

Zuppa d’Aosta

Brodo di Polio

Chicken Stock

Brodo di Vitello

Veal Stock

Brodo di Pesce

Fish Stock

Pasta and Risotto

Pasta all’ Uovo

Fresh Pasta

Penne alla Carbonara

Rotolo di Spinaci

Ravioli di Magro

Ravioli with Swiss Chard and Pancetta

Ravioli di Zucca e Mascarpone

Ravioli with Pumpkin

Penne con Pomodoro e Aceto Balsamico

Penne with Tomato and Balsamic Vinegar

Penne all’ Amatriciana

Penne con Melanzane

Penne with Aubergine

Penne con Sugo di Salsiccie alla Cloe

Penne with a Quick Sausage Sauce

Penne con Sugo di Salsiccie alla Adam

Penne with a Slow-Cooked Sausage Sauce

Pappardelle alla Lepre

Pappardelle with Hare

Penne con Pomodoro e Acciughe

Penne with Tomato and Anchovy Sauce

Conchiglie al Cavolo Nero

Farfalle al Cavolo Nero con Olio Nuovo

Conchiglie al Pomodoro e Porcini Secchi

Spaghetti al Limone

Spaghetti alle Vongole in Bianco

Spaghetti with Clams

Conchiglie con Broccoli

Tagliarini al Bosco

Tagliarini with Asparagus and Herbs

Bucatini con Origano

Bucatini with Fresh and Dried Oregano

Spaghetti con Bottarga

Linguine con Sardine

Linguine al Granchio

Linguini with Crab

Linguine Con Cozze al Sugo Rosso

Linguine with Mussels in a Red Sauce

Linguine con Cozze al Sugo Bianco

Linguine with Mussels and White Wine

Tagliarini con Trevise

Risotto alla Milanese

Risotto al Salto

Risotto Cake

Risotto con Carciofi

Risotto with Artichokes

Risotto ai Funghi

Risotto with Mushrooms

Risotto di Zucca

Pumpkin Risotto

Risotto con Fiori di Zucchini

Risotto with Zucchini Flowers

Risotto al Amarone di Valpolicella

Risotto Primavera

Risotto Nero

Polenta

Polenta

Polenta alla Griglia

Vegetables and Salads

Ricotta al Forno

Torta di Ricotta e Bietola con Pasta Frolla

Gnocchi Verdi con Ricotta

Ricotta and Spinach Gnocchi

Asparagi e Torta di Gorgonzola

Asparagi con Uova

Vignole

Peperoni con Acciughe e Capperi

Char-grilled Peppers with Anchovy and Capers

Verdura Mista in Graticola

Marinated Grilled Vegetables

Fritto Misto

Deep-fried Vegetables

Carciofi alla Giudea

Deep-fried Whole Artichokes

Carciofi Marinati

Marinated Globe Artichokes

Carciofi Trifolati

Broccoli con Acciughe

Broccoli with Anchovy

Carciofi alla Romana

Artichokes Roman Style

Insalata di Carciofi Crudi

Raw Artichoke Salad

Insalata di Topinambur

Jerusalem Artichoke Salad

Zucchini alla Scapece

Zucchini Trifolati

Pomodoro al Forno con Basilico

Insalata di Pane, Pomodoro e Basilico

Toasted Tuscan Bread Salad with Tomatoes and Basil

Insalata di Finocchio

Raw Fennel Salad

Finocchio alla Griglia

Grilled Fennel Salad

Panzanella

Radicchio alla Griglia

Grilled Radicchio

Insalata Invernale

Winter Salad

Insalata Estiva

Summer Salad

Oil and Lemon Dressing

Oil, Lemon, Vinegar and Garlic Dressing

Olive Oil and Vinegar Dressing

Patate al Forno con Pancetta

Potato and Pancetta Gratin

Cannellini

Lenticchie

Inzimino di Ceci

Chickpeas with Swiss Chard

Patate al Forno con Aceto Balsamico e Timo

Potatoes Baked with Balsamic Vinegar and Thyme

Mashed Potatoes with Olive Oil and Parmesan

Smashed Celeriac

Finocchio alla Parmigiana

Fennel and Parmesan Gratin

Finocchio Cucinato

Slow-Cooked Fennel

Pomodori e Melanzane

Melanzane al Funghetto

Cicoria al Forno

Baked Chicory

Funghi Brasati

Braised Field and Wild Mushrooms

Braised Trompettes de Mort

Fagiolini alla Parmigiana

Green Beans with Parmesan

Braised Cavolo Nero

Spinach with Oil and Lemon

Carrots Dada

Sformato di Spinaci

Baked Spinach

Fish and Shellfish

Branzino ai Ferri

Grilled Sea Bass Fillets

Branzino al Cartoccio

Baked Sea Bass

Branzino Arrosto

Roasted Marinated Sea Bass

Branzino al Sale

Sea Bass Baked in Salt

Baccalà alla Griglia

Grilled Salt Cod

Rombo alla Griglia

Grilled Turbot

Triglia ai Ferri

Grilled Red Mullet

Acciughe Fresche Marinate

Marinated Fresh Anchovies

Coda di Rospo in Cartoccio

Baked Monkfish with Crème Fraîche in Foil

Triglia al Cartoccio con Treviso

Red Mullet Wrapped in Trevise

Mazzan colle ai Ferri

Grilled Langoustine with Fennel and Chilli Sauce

Calamari ai Ferri con Peperoncini

Grilled Squid with Chillies

Caposante in Padella con Capperi

Pan-Fried Scallops with Capers

Meat

Ossobuco in Bianco

Shinco Arrosto

Roast Whole Shin of Veal

Vitello Arrosto con Salvia

Veal Loin Roasted with Sage

Costolette di Vitello

Grilled Veal Chops

Shinco di Agnello

Slow-Cooked Lamb Shanks

Maiale al Latte

Pork Cooked in Milk

Brasato di Maiale con Aceto

Pork Braised with Vinegar

Maiale Arrosto con Aceto Balsamico

Pork Roasted with Balsamic Vinegar

Filetto di Manzo in Tegame

Braised Beef Fillet

Bistecca di manzo con Rucola

Steak with Rocket

Carpaccio con Salmoriglio

Beef Fillet with Salmoriglio

Agnello Marinato alla Griglia

Marinated Grilled Lamb

Rognoncini con Carciofi e Timo

Kidneys with Artichoke Hearts and Thyme

Fegato di Vitello con Cavolo Nero

Pan-Fried Calf’s Liver with Cavolo Nero

Poached Brains

Poached Sweetbreads

Cervelle e Animelle in Padella

Pan-Fried Calf’s Brains and Sweetbreads

Salsicce Piccanti

Spiced Italian Sausages

Salsicce River Cafe

Fresh Spiced Sausages

Bollito Misto

Poultry and Game

Pollo alla Griglia

Marinated Grilled Chicken

Pollo Spago

Pollo Ripieno con Mascarpone

Pan-Fried Chicken with Mascarpone

Pernice con Prosciutto

Partridge Wrapped in Prosciutto

Piccione Ripieno con Cotechino

Pan-roasted Pigeon Stuffed with Cotechino

Tetraone Cucinato nella Pancetta

Roast Grouse with Pancetta

Brasato di Fagiano con Cavolo

Braised Pheasant with Cabbage

Fagiano Arrosto con Cotogne

Roast Pheasant with Quince

Fagiano in Josephine Dore

Pheasant with Josephine Dore

Piccione Ripieno di Castagne

Pan-roasted Bresse Pigeon with Chestnuts

Anatra Arrosto al Vino Rosso

Roast Duck with Sweet Red Wine

Sauces

Salsa Calda d’Acciughe e Rosmarino

Hot Anchovy Sauce

Salsa Fredda d’Acciughe e Rosmarino

Anchovy and Rosemary Sauce

Salsa di Peperoncini Scottati

Grilled Chilli Sauce

Salsa di Peperoncini Rossi

Fresh Red Chilli Sauce

Salsa di Mascarpone e Gorgonzola

Gorgonzola and Mascarpone Sauce

Salsa di Erbe

Fresh Herb Sauce

Bagnet

Anchovy Sauce

Salmoriglio

Oregano Sauce

Salsa Rossa

Red Sauce

Salsa Verde

Green Sauce

Salsa Pasta d’Olive

Olive Sauce

Salsa di Dragoncello

Tarragon Sauce

Aioli di Mandorle

Almond Aioli

Maionese

Mayonnaise

Sugo di Pomodoro Veloce

Quick Sweet Tomato Sauce

Sugo di Pomodoro a Fuoco Lento

Slow-Cooked Tomato Sauce

Desserts

Pere al Forno con Marsala e Cannella

Pears Baked with Marsala and Cinnamon

Pesche Gratinate con Amaretto

Grilled Peaches with Amaretto

Torta di Pere e Mandorle

Pear and Almond Tart

Torta di Cioccolato e Mandorle

Bitter Chocolate Almond Torte

Torta di Castagne e Cioccolato

Chestnut and Chocolate Torte

Crostata di Limone

Lemon Tart

Torta di Polenta, Mandorle e Limone

Polenta, Almond and Lemon Cake

Torta di Nocciole e Ricotta

Hazlenut and Ricotta Cake

Chocolate Oblivion

Pressed Chocolate Cake

Tartufo di Cioccolato

Chocolate Truffle Cake

Quince Cheese

Sorbetto d’Arancie Tarocchi

Blood Orange Sorbet

Sorbetto al Limone

Lemon Sorbet

Sorbetto alla Fragola

Strawberry Sorbet

Sorbetto ai Lamponi e al Vino Rosso

Raspberry and Red Wine Sorbet

Sorbetto alla Pera e Grappa

Pear and Grappa Sorbet

Sorbetto al Campari

Campari Sorbet

Gelato alla Vaniglia

Vanilla Ice Cream

Gelato al Caramello

Caramel Ice Cream

Gelato al Cioccolato e Whisky

Chocolate and Whisky Ice Cream

Gelato al Caffè

Espresso Ice Cream

Gelato allo Zabaione

Zabaglione Ice Cream

Gelato al Limone e Mascarpone

Mascarpone and Lemon Ice Cream

Chocolate Nemesis

Glossary

Index

Acknowledgements

Copyright

 

 

List of Recipes

Acciughe Fresche Marinate

Marinated Fresh Anchovies

Agnello Marinato alla Griglia

Marinated Grilled Lamb

Aioli di Mandorle

Almond Aioli

Anatra Arrosto al Vino Rosso

Roast Duck with Sweet Red Wine

Asparagi con Uova

Asparagi e Torta di Gorgonzola

Baccalà alla Griglia

Grilled Salt Cod

Bagnet

Anchovy Sauce

Bistecca di manzo con Rucola

Steak with Rocket

Bollito Misto

Braised Cavolo Nero

Braised Trompettes de Mort

Branzino ai Ferri

Grilled Sea Bass Fillets

Branzino al Cartoccio

Baked Sea Bass

Branzino al Sale

Sea Bass Baked in Salt

Branzino Arrosto

Roasted Marinated Sea Bass

Brasato di Fagiano con Cavolo

Braised Pheasant with Cabbage

Brasato di Maiale con Aceto

Pork Braised with Vinegar

Broccoli con Acciughe

Broccoli with Anchovy

Brodo di Pesce

Fish Stock

Brodo di Polio

Chicken Stock

Brodo di Vitello

Veal Stock

Bucatini con Origano

Bucatini with Fresh and Dried Oregano

Calamari ai Ferri con Peperoncini

Grilled Squid with Chillies

Cannellini

Caposante in Padella con Capperi

Pan-Fried Scallops with Capers

Carciofi alla Giudea

Deep-fried Whole Artichokes

Carciofi alla Romana

Artichokes Roman Style

Carciofi Marinati

Marinated Globe Artichokes

Carciofi Trifolati

Carpaccio con Salmoriglio

Beef Fillet with Salmoriglio

Carrots Dada

Cervelle e Animelle in Padella

Pan-Fried Calf’s Brains and Sweetbreads

Chocolate Nemesis

Chocolate Oblivion

Cicoria al Forno

Baked Chicory

Coda di Rospo in Cartoccio

Baked Monkfish with Crème Fraîche in Foil

Conchiglie al Cavolo Nero

Conchiglie al Pomodoro e Porcini Secchi

Conchiglie con Broccoli

Costolette di Vitello

Grilled Veal Chops

Crostata di Limone

Lemon Tart

Fagiano Arrosto con Cotogne

Roast Pheasant with Quince

Fagiano in Josephine Dore

Pheasant with Josephine Dore

Fagiolini alla Parmigiana

Green Beans with Parmesan

Farfalle al Cavolo Nero con Olio Nuovo

Fegato di Vitello con Cavolo Nero

Pan-Fried Calf’s Liver with Cavolo Nero

Filetto di Manzo in Tegame

Braised Beef Fillet

Finocchio alla Griglia

Grilled Fennel Salad

Finocchio alla Parmigiana

Fennel and Parmesan Gratin

Finocchio Cucinato

Slow-Cooked Fennel

Fritto Misto

Deep-fried Vegetables

Funghi Brasati

Braised Field and Wild Mushrooms

Gelato al Caramello

Caramel Ice Cream

Gelato al Cioccolato e Whisky

Chocolate and Whisky Ice Cream

Gelato alla Vaniglia

Vanilla Ice Cream

Gelato allo Zabaione

Zabaglione Ice Cream

Gelato al Caffè

Espresso Ice Cream

Gelato al Limone e Mascarpone

Mascarpone and Lemon Ice Cream

Gnocchi Verdi con Ricotta

Ricotta and Spinach Gnocchi

Insalata di Carciofi Crudi

Raw Artichoke Salad

Insalata di Finocchio

Raw Fennel Salad

Insalata di Pane, Pomodoro e Basilico

Toasted Tuscan Bread Salad with Tomatoes and Basil

Insalata di Topinambur

Jerusalem Artichoke Salad

Insalata Estiva

Summer Salad

Insalata Invernale

Winter Salad

Inzimino di Ceci

Chickpeas with Swiss Chard

Lenticchie

Linguine al Granchio

Linguini with Crab

Linguine con Cozze al Sugo Bianco

Linguine with Mussels and White Wine

Linguine Con Cozze al Sugo Rosso

Linguine with Mussels in a Red Sauce

Linguine con Sardine

Maiale al Latte

Pork Cooked in Milk

Maiale Arrosto con Aceto Balsamico

Pork Roasted with Balsamic Vinegar

Maionese

Mayonnaise

Mashed Potatoes with Olive Oil and Parmesan

Mazzan colle ai Ferri

Grilled Langoustine with Fennel and Chilli Sauce

Melanzane al Funghetto

Minestrone Estivo

Summer Minestrone

Minestrone Invernale

Winter Minestrone

Oil and Lemon Dressing

Oil, Lemon, Vinegar and Garlic Dressing

Olive Oil and Vinegar Dressing

Ossobuco in Bianco

Panzanella

Pappa al Pomodoro

Pappardelle alla Lepre

Pappardelle with Hare

Pasta all’ Uovo

Fresh Pasta

Pasta e Fagioli

Pasta and Bean Soup

Patate al Forno con Aceto Balsamico e Timo

Potatoes Baked with Balsamic Vinegar and Thyme

Patate al Forno con Pancetta

Potato and Pancetta Gratin

Penne alla Carbonara

Penne all’ Amatriciana

Penne con Melanzane

Penne con Pomodoro e Acciughe

Penne with Tomato and Anchovy Sauce

Penne con Pomodoro e Aceto Balsamico

Penne with Tomato and Balsamic Vinegar

Penne con Sugo di Salsiccie alla Adam

Penne with a Slow-Cooked Sausage Sauce

Penne con Sugo di Salsiccie alla Cloe

Penne with a Quick Sausage Sauce

Peperoni con Acciughe e Capperi

Char-grilled Peppers with Anchovy and Capers

Pere al Forno con Marsala e Cannella

Pears Baked with Marsala and Cinnamon

Pernice con Prosciutto

Partridge Wrapped in Prosciutto

Pesche Gratinate con Amaretto

Grilled Peaches with Amaretto

Piccione Ripieno con Cotechino

Piccione Ripieno di Castagne

Pan-roasted Pigeon Stuffed with Cotechino

Poached Brains

Poached Sweetbreads

Polenta

Polenta alla Griglia

Pollo alla Griglia

Marinated Grilled Chicken

Pollo Ripieno con Mascarpone

Pan-Fried Chicken with Mascarpone

Pollo Spago

Pomodori e Melanzane

Pomodoro al Forno con Basilico

Pressed Chocolate Cake

Quince Cheese

Radicchio alla Griglia

Grilled Radicchio

Ravioli di Magro

Ravioli with Swiss Chard and Pancetta

Ravioli di Zucca e Mascarpone

Ravioli with Pumpkin

Ribollita

Ricotta al Forno

Risotto ai Funghi

Risotto with Mushrooms

Risotto al Amarone di Valpolicella

Risotto al Salto

Risotto Cake

Risotto alla Milanese

Risotto con Carciofi

Risotto with Artichokes

Risotto con Fiori di Zucchini

Risotto with Zucchini Flowers

Risotto di Zucca

Pumpkin Risotto

Risotto Nero

Risotto Primavera

Rognoncini con Carciofi e Timo

Kidneys with Artichoke Hearts and Thyme

Rombo alla Griglia

Grilled Turbot

Rotolo di Spinaci

Salmoriglio

Oregano Sauce

Salsa Calda d’Acciughe e Rosmarino

Hot Anchovy Sauce

Salsa di Dragoncello

Tarragon Sauce

Salsa di Erbe

Fresh Herb Sauce

Salsa di Mascarpone e Gorgonzola

Gorgonzola and Mascarpone Sauce

Salsa di Peperoncini Rossi

Fresh Red Chilli Sauce

Salsa di Peperoncini Scottati

Grilled Chilli Sauce

Salsa Fredda d’Acciughe e Rosmarino

Anchovy and Rosemary Sauce

Salsa Pasta d’Olive

Olive Sauce

Salsa Rossa

Red Sauce

Salsa Verde

Green Sauce

Salsicce Piccanti

Spiced Italian Sausages

Salsicce River Cafe

Fresh Spiced Sausages

Sformato di Spinaci

Baked Spinach

Shinco Arrosto

Roast Whole Shin of Veal

Shinco di Agnello

Slow-Cooked Lamb Shanks

Smashed Celeriac

Sorbetto ai Lamponi e al Vino Rosso

Raspberry and Red Wine Sorbet

Sorbetto al Campari

Campari Sorbet

Sorbetto al Limone

Lemon Sorbet

Sorbetto alla Fragola

Strawberry Sorbet

Sorbetto alla Pera e Grappa

Pear and Grappa Sorbet

Sorbetto d’Arancie Tarocchi

Blood Orange Sorbet

Spaghetti al Limone

Spaghetti alle Vongole in Bianco

Spaghetti with Clams

Spaghetti con Bottarga

Spinach with Oil and Lemon

Sugo di Pomodoro a Fuoco Lento

Slow-Cooked Tomato Sauce

Sugo di Pomodoro Veloce

Quick Sweet Tomato Sauce

Tagliarini al Bosco

Tagliarini with Asparagus and Herbs

Tagliarini con Trevise

Tartufo di Cioccolato

Chocolate Truffle Cake

Tetraone Cucinato nella Pancetta

Roast Grouse with Pancetta

Torta di Castagne e Cioccolato

Chestnut and Chocolate Torte

Torta di Cioccolato e Mandorle

Bitter Chocolate Almond Torte

Torta di Nocciole e Ricotta

Hazlenut and Ricotta Cake

Torta di Pere e Mandorle

Pear and Almond Tart

Torta di Polenta, Mandorle e Limone

Polenta, Almond and Lemon Cake

Torta di Ricotta e Bietola con Pasta Frolla

Triglia ai Ferri

Grilled Red Mullet

Triglia al Cartoccio con Treviso

Red Mullet Wrapped in Trevise

Verdura Mista in Graticola

Marinated Grilled Vegetables

Vignole

Vitello Arrosto con Salvia

Veal Loin Roasted with Sage

Zucchini alla Scapece

Zucchini Trifolati

Zuppa dei Poveri

Zuppa di Acetosa e Lenticchie

Lentil and Sorrel Soup

Zuppa di Cozze in Bianco

White Mussel Soup

Zuppa di Cozze Piccante

Spicy Mussel Soup

Zuppa di Fagioli Cannellini

Cannellini Bean Soup

Zuppa di Fave Secche

Dried Broad Bean Soup

Zuppa di Mammole e Tompinambur

Globe and Jerusalem Artichoke Soup

Zuppa di Pesce alla Ligure

Ligurian Fish Stew

Zuppa di Zucca

Pumpkin Soup

Zuppa di Zucchine

Zucchini Soup

Zuppa d’Aosta

Zuppa Estiva di Cozze

Summer Mussel Soup

Zuppa Estiva di Piselli

Summer Pea Soup

Zuppa Prosciutto e Piselli

Pea and Prosciutto Soup

 

 

About the Book

The River Cafe Cook Book is one of the most influential cookbooks to have been published this decade and is the winner of both the Glenfiddich Food Book of the Year and the BCA Illustrated Book of the Year awards. Acclaimed for their innovative re-interpretation of Italian farmhouse cooking – cucina rustica – at the River Cafe restaurant, Rose Gray and Ruth Rogers have produced an outstanding selection of recipes with an emphasis on uncomplicated food which is vibrant with flavour. Beautifully illustrated, The River Cafe Cook Book is a wonderful guide to this approachable and exciting form of Italian cooking and a celebration of a great restaurant.

 

 

Introduction

The River Cafe opened in 1987. It was inspired and influenced by our experience of living and cooking in Italy. Both of us spent long periods in Tuscany, with family and friends, and learned an enormous amount by watching, tasting and experimenting as we went.

The ingredients themselves were a revelation. We were overwhelmed by the enormous variety of produce available in Italian food shops – the local pecorinos, the different types of prosciuttos and salamis, the smoked and salted pancettas, olive oils made by local farms, and olives preserved in brine. There were inviting sacks of dried beans – borlotti, fave, cannellini and ceci. In the vegetable markets we found tiny fennel bulbs which could be eaten raw, huge dense bunches of cicoria, stalls that sold only herbs, or garlic or wild leaves.

In Italy we learned about the importance of seasonality, robust flavours, the structure of a meal and the natural connection between a region’s wine and its food. All this influenced the way we cooked and we transferred this knowledge and our enthusiasm directly to the restaurant.

Eight years ago obtaining the right ingredients was a challenge. We brought back seeds of cavolo nero from Italy and persuaded an organic gardener to grow them for us. In the garden on the riverbank outside the restaurant we experimented in planting Capri rocket, cultivating dandelion leaves, and growing a range of herbs which we could pick every day.

It is now much easier to obtain these ingredients – mozzarella is flown in from Naples once a week, one of our wine suppliers, Winecellars, imports olive oils, pasta and polenta flours as well as wine, and many of the vegetables are now available through specialist suppliers. We have provided a list of stockists, and we’re sure that everyone using and reading this book should be able to obtain everything they need.

From the beginning we were confident that our ideals for a restaurant were the same. We shared a love for Italian food, we were both interested in the new restaurants opening then in California and New York, which looked towards rustic European cooking yet grafted onto this a certain American simplicity and directness. We were determined to have only Italian wines on our wine list. We were also convinced that we could extend the way we lived and cooked at home into the restaurant, and create a style that was natural and true to our own tastes. The River Cafe was conceived deliberately along domestic lines, with a small open kitchen, a menu that would change for every meal, and the unconventional idea that the waiters and kitchen porters would be involved in the preparation of the food.

We feel that our recipes are accessible to anyone cooking at home. We took our Italian knowledge and recipes from the domestic kitchen to the restaurant; our book now returns them there.

Rose Gray & Ruth Rogers London 1995

 

 

Soups 1

 

 

Recipe List

Zuppa di Cozze in Bianco

White Mussel Soup

Zuppa di Cozze Piccante

Spicy Mussel Soup

Zuppa Estiva di Cozze

Summer Mussel Soup

Zuppa di Pesce alla Ligure

Ligurian Fish Stew

Zuppa Prosciutto e Piselli

Pea and Prosciutto Soup

Zuppa Estiva di Piselli

Summer Pea Soup

Zuppa di Zucchine

Zucchini Soup

Zuppa di Zucca

Pumpkin Soup

Zuppa di Acetosa e Lenticchie

Lentil and Sorrel Soup

Pappa al Pomodoro

Ribollita

Minestrone Invernale

Winter Minestrone

Minestrone Estivo

Summer Minestrone

Zuppa di Fagioli Cannellini

Cannellini Bean Soup

Zuppa di Fave Secche

Dried Broad Bean Soup

Pasta e Fagioli

Pasta and Bean Soup

Zuppa di Mammole e Tompinambur

Globe and Jerusalem Artichoke Soup

Zuppa dei Poveri

Zuppa d’Aosta

Brodo di Polio

Chicken Stock

Brodo di Vitello

Veal Stock

Brodo di Pesce

Fish Stock

 

 

What we love most about Italian soups is what we love most about Italian food. They are regional, seasonal and their ingredients are undisguised and definite.

You would be as unlikely to find a Pappa al Pomodoro served in a home or restaurant in Aosta as a Zuppa di Aosta in Tuscany. Both are soups of their region – Tuscans are proud of their bread, considering it more important than pasta and every garden has its row of tomatoes. In the high mountainous province of Aosta, the soups are filling and comforting – made with stock, salted anchovies, butter and Fontina cheese.

The seasonal quality of Italian soups is reflected in the method of cooking and the ingredients used. Dried cannelli are best in November and coincide with the arrival of the new oil, winter minestrones are dark green and cook for a long time. The soups of spring and summer are still strong and definite but lighter, fresher and more fragrant. Summer minestrone is a vivid green with an abundance of fresh herbs and hardly cooked young peas and asparagus.

Apart from the minestrones and fish stews, Italian soups have few ingredients. Our zucchini soup uses large quantities of zucchini and basil, whilst the cannellini bean soup is no more than parsley, garlic, cannellini beans and extra virgin olive oil.

 

 

Zuppa di Cozze in Bianco

 

White Mussel Soup

 

This mussel soup comes from the Ligurian coast. It is called bianco because, unusually for Italian fish soup, it contains wine and garlic, but no tomato.

 

 

Serves 6

 

2.5 kg (5.1/2 lb) mussels

75 ml (2.1/2 fl oz) olive oil

4 garlic cloves, peeled and chopped

1/2 bottle white wine

1 small dried chilli, crushed

1 bunch flat-leaf parsley, chopped

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

 

 

Crostini

 

6 slices ciabatta bread, cut at an angle

1 garlic clove, peeled and halved

extra virgin olive oil

Clean the mussels very thoroughly under cold running water. Scrub well with a stiff brush, and scrape off any barnacles. Discard any that are open or have cracked or broken shells.

Heat 60 ml (2 fl oz) of the olive oil until very hot in the biggest pan you have, one with a tight-fitting lid. Add two-thirds of the chopped garlic; it will colour immediately. Throw in the mussels, put on the lid and shake the pan fiercely to coat the mussels with oil. Add the wine. Return to the heat, shake, cook and stir until all the mussels are open. This will only take a couple of minutes.

Put the opened mussels and their juices into a large bowl to cool, then remove half the mussels from their shells. Discard any that have not opened.

In the same pan heat the remaining olive oil and fry the rest of the garlic until light brown, then add the chilli, half the parsley and the liquid from the mussels. When hot, add all the mussels, shelled and unshelled, salt and pepper and most of the remaining parsley.

To make the crostini, toast the ciabatta slices on both sides, and rub with the garlic. Serve the soup in flat open dishes with the crostini and pour over a generous amount of extra virgin olive oil. Scatter with the remaining parsley.

 

 

Zuppa di Cozze Piccante

 

Spicy Mussel Soup

 

In its use of chillies, anchovies and tomatoes, this mussel soup from Puglia is typical of the southern Italian style of cooking.

 

 

Serves 6

 

2.5 kg (5.1/2 lb) mussels, cleaned as in the previous recipe

75 ml (2.1/2 fl oz) olive oil

150 ml (5 fl oz) white wine

4 garlic cloves, peeled and finely chopped

6 anchovy fillets

3 small dried chillies, crumbled

1 × 800 g (1.3/4 lb) tin peeled plum tomatoes, drained of most of their juices, chopped

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 bunch flat-leaf parsley, chopped

 

 

Bruschetta

 

6 slices pugliese bread, cut at an angle

1 garlic clove, peeled and halved

extra virgin olive oil

Heat 60 ml (2 fl oz) of the olive oil in a large saucepan, then add the mussels, the white wine and 120 ml (4 fl oz) water. Cook over a high heat until all the mussels are open, discarding any that remain closed. You may need to cook the mussels in batches; divide the oil, wine and water accordingly.

Remove the mussels, and boil to reduce the liquid by half. Remove half the mussels from their shells.

Heat the remaining olive oil in a large pan and fry the garlic until lightly brown. Add the anchovies, and mash with the garlic into the hot oil until dissolved. Add the mussel liquid, the chilli and the tomatoes. Cook gently until the tomatoes have reduced to a medium-thick consistency. This should take about 30 minutes. Season with salt and pepper and more chilli if necessary. Finally, put in the mussels, shelled and unshelled, and half the parsley.

To make the bruschetta, toast the bread on both sides and rub with the garlic. Serve the soup in flat open dishes with the bruschetta, the remaining parsley and a generous amount of the very best extra virgin olive oil.

 

 

Zuppa Estiva di Cozze

 

Summer Mussel Soup

 

Serves 6

 

2.5 kg (5.1/2 lb) mussels, cleaned (see here)

120 ml (4 fl oz) olive oil

3 garlic cloves, peeled (2 in slivers, 1 chopped)

1 large bunch basil, stalks removed

1.25 kg (2.3/4 lb) ripe plum tomatoes, skinned, seeded and chopped, juices retained

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

 

 

Bruschetta

 

6 slices ciabatta bread, cut at an angle

2 garlic cloves, peeled

extra virgin olive oil

Heat 4 tablespoons of the olive oil in a large, heavy saucepan, add the garlic slivers, and cook gently until light brown. Add half the basil leaves and the tomatoes, and cook, stirring over a fierce heat, until the tomatoes break up and reduce to a thick sauce. This should take about 15 minutes, if the tomatoes are ripe. If the tomatoes are unripe, they will be less juicy, so add some of the reserved tomato juices.

In another large, heavy saucepan, fry the chopped garlic in the remaining olive oil until light brown, then add the mussels and a few basil leaves and the remaining tomato juice, about 750 ml (1.1/4 pints). Cover with a tight-fitting lid, shake and cook over a high heat until the mussels are open (discard any that remain closed). You may need to do this in batches; divide the other ingredients accordingly. Leave to cool and then remove all the mussels from their shells.

Add the mussels to the tomato sauce with the rest of the basil, and season with sea salt and black pepper.

To make the bruschetta, toast the bread on both sides, then rub with the garlic. Serve the soup in flat open dishes with the bruschetta and a generous amount of extra virgin olive oil.

 

 

Zuppa di Pesce alla Ligure

 

Ligurian Fish Stew

 

In the River Cafe we serve this soup as a main course. You may vary the recipe according to the fish you can find, but always include a red fish such as mullet, a dense white fish such as turbot or monkfish (keep the bones for stock), and shellfish such as scallops, mussels or vongole.

 

 

Serves 6

 

3 × 175-225 g (6-8 oz) red mullet, scaled and cleaned

500 g (18 oz) monkfish or turbot fillets, boned weight (ask for the bones for stock)

1.5 kg (3.1/4 lb) mussels

12 langoustines (optional)

6 scallops, removed from their shells

175 ml (6 fl oz) olive oil

150 ml (5 fl oz) dry white wine

2 fresh red chillies, seeded and chopped

1.2 litres (2 pints) Fish Stock (see here)

12 small new potatoes, preferably Roseval, peeled

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

5 garlic cloves, peeled and cut into slivers

4 fennel bulbs, sliced (keep the green leaves and stalks for stock)

25 g (1 oz) fennel seeds

1 × 800 g (1.3/4 lb) tin peeled plum tomatoes, drained of most of their juices, sieved

 

 

Crostini

 

6 slices ciabatta bread, cut at an angle

1 garlic clove, peeled and halved

1 bunch flat-leaf parsley (keep stalks for stock), chopped

Fillet the red mullet, and cut each fillet into four. Cut the monkfish or turbot into similar sized pieces.

Clean the mussels as described in the recipe on here, and put into a large saucepan with a tight-fitting lid, along with 120 ml (4 fl oz) of the olive oil, the white wine and half the chilli. Cover and steam over a high heat, shaking, until all the shells open, about 3-5 minutes. Discard any that remain closed. When cool, remove half the mussels from their shells, and strain the juices into the fish stock.

Bring the fish stock to the boil, and add the langoustines if using. Poach for 2 minutes, then remove and cool.

Boil the potatoes in salted water until nearly done. Drain and cool.

To make the tomato soup base, heat the remaining olive oil in a large, heavy-bottomed saucepan and fry the garlic, the remaining chilli, fennel and fennel seeds for a few minutes, then add the tomatoes, and cook over a gentle heat for about 45 minutes until thick and smooth. Be careful not to let it stick. Season to taste with salt and pepper, and add more chilli if you like.

Add the fish stock to this sauce and bring to the boil. Now add the mullet, monkfish or turbot and scallops to the soup and bring back to the boil. Remove from the heat and add the cooked potatoes, mussels (shelled and unshelled), and langoustines. Divide between the bowls, making sure each person has some of each variety of fish.

To make the crostini, toast the bread on both sides and rub with the garlic. Put one crostini on top of each serving of soup, sprinkle with the chopped parsley and dribble extra virgin olive oil on top.

 

 

Zuppa Prosciutto e Piselli

 

Pea and Prosciutto Soup

 

Large fresh peas have a distinctive floury texture which is perfect for this soup. It is cooked slowly with the hock or tough end from a prosciutto.

 

 

Serves 6

 

2 kg (4.1/2 lb) peas, shelled (keep pods for the stock)

250 g (9 oz) prosciutto hock

1 head celery, trimmed and coarsely chopped

2 red onions, peeled

1 bunch fresh mint

2 carrots, peeled and coarsely chopped

2 tablespoons olive oil

50 g (2 oz) butter

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

extra virgin olive oil or crème fraîche

Parmesan, freshly grated

To make the stock, gently simmer the prosciutto hock with the celery, one of the onions cut in half, the stalks of the mint, the carrots, pea pods and water to cover by 2.5 cm (1 in). This will take 1-1.1/2 hours.

Chop the remaining onion finely.

In a large, heavy saucepan, fry the chopped onion gently in the olive oil and the butter until light brown. Add half the mint leaves and the peas and stir together for a minute or two, then add enough of the strained stock to just cover the peas. Turn the heat to very low and simmer until the peas are soft, about 30-45 minutes, topping up with stock when necessary.

Remove the prosciutto hock from the stock and break the softest parts into pieces. Put in a processor with some stock and pulse briefly until a coarse purée.

When the peas are cooked remove half from the pan and pulse or chop in the blender with the stock they cooked in. Return to the pan and stir in along with the prosciutto purée. Chop the remainder of the mint leaves and add to the soup. Season if necessary.

Serve with extra virgin olive oil and Parmesan. Alternatively, you could serve it with crème fraîche and Parmesan.

 

 

Zuppa Estiva di Piselli

 

Summer Pea Soup

 

Young freshly picked peas are one of the most special early summer vegetables. This soup celebrates that flavour.

 

 

Serves 6

 

1 kg (2.1/4 lb) fresh peas, shelled

1 tablespoon olive oil

25 g (1 oz) butter

1 medium red onion, peeled and finely chopped

1 garlic clove, peeled and very finely chopped

1 bunch fresh mint leaves, chopped

500 ml (17 fl oz) Chicken Stock (see here)

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

50 g (2 oz) Parmesan, freshly grated

extra virgin olive oil

Melt the oil and butter together in a large saucepan, and fry the onion and garlic over a very gentle heat until soft but not brown, about 15 minutes. Add about three-quarters of the mint, the peas and the stock. Cook, covered, until the peas are tender, about 5 minutes.

Put half the mixture into a food processor and pulse until you have a coarse purée. Return to the pan and season. Add the remaining mint.

Serve sprinkled with Parmesan, and extra virgin olive oil.

 

 

Zuppa di Zucchine

 

Zucchini Soup

 

We use ridged zucchini that Adrian Baron grows for us in his walled garden in Suffolk. The flavour of this Italian variety is so good that we make it with water instead of chicken stock.

 

 

Serves 6

 

1 kg (2.1/4 lb) medium zucchini, trimmed

25 ml (1 fl oz) olive oil

2 garlic cloves, peeled and chopped

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

500 ml (17 fl oz) Chicken Stock (see here) or water

140 ml (4.1/2 fl oz) double cream

1 small bunch basil, chopped

1 small bunch flat-leaf parsley, chopped

120 g (4.1/2 oz) Parmesan, freshly grated

 

 

Crostini

 

6 slices ciabatta bread, cut at an angle

115 g (4 oz) black olives, stoned and chopped

1 large fresh red chilli, seeded

extra virgin olive oil

Cut the zucchini lengthwise into quarters, then into 2.5 cm (1 in) pieces. Heat the oil in a heavy saucepan and cook the garlic and zucchini slowly for approximately 25 minutes until the zucchini are brown and very soft. Add salt, pepper and the stock, and simmer for another few minutes. Remove from the stove.

Put three-quarters of the zucchini in a food processor and purée. Return to the pan, and add the cream, basil, parsley and Parmesan.

To make the crostini, toast the bread on both sides. Mix the olives and chilli with some extra virgin olive oil and spread thickly on the crostini. Serve at the side of the plate.

 

 

Zuppa di Zucca

 

Pumpkin Soup

 

There are many varieties of pumpkin and squash. We use the ones that have a deep orange flesh and that are moist when cut.

 

 

Serves 6

 

1.5 kg (3.1/4 lb) pumpkin, peeled, seeded and diced into 5 cm (2 in) cubes

150 g (5 oz) new potatoes, peeled and cubed as above (preferably yellow Charlotte or Roseval)

3 tablespoons olive oil

50 g (2 oz) butter

2 small red onions, peeled and finely chopped

2 garlic cloves, peeled and cut into slivers

4 large sprigs fresh marjoram

1-2 dried chillies

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 litre (1.3/4 pints) Chicken Stock (see here)

 

 

Crostini

 

Parmesan, freshly grated

extra virgin olive oil

6 slices ciabatta bread

2 garlic cloves, peeled and halved

Heat the oil and butter in a large heavy saucepan and gently fry the onion until soft. Stir in the garlic and marjoram leaves, the pumpkin and potato, and continue to cook for a minute. Season with the chilli, salt and pepper. Add enough stock to just cover the pumpkin, turn down the heat, and simmer until the pumpkin is tender, about 20-25 minutes. You may need to add more stock.

Strain about a third of the stock from the pumpkin and set aside. Put the remainder in a food processor and pulse; The mixture should be very thick. Return this to the saucepan and add the stock you removed. Check for seasoning. This is a very thick soup.

Serve with Parmesan, new peppery olive oil and crostini made from toasted ciabatta rubbed with garlic and dipped into extra virgin olive oil.

Variation

Add 150 g (5 oz) cooked cannellini beans (see here) when you add the pumpkin. Reserve some whole ones to add to the final purée.

 

A sophisticated re-interpretation of the cucina rustica or farmhouse cooking of northern Italy, the food of THE RIVER CAFE’ relies on good quality, fresh, seasonal produce – plus authentic Italian ingredients such as polenta, buffalo mozzarella and extra virgin olive oil. The emphasis is very much on the type of cooking found in Italian homes rather than restaurants. Ruth and Rose’s direct, uncomplicated approach means that many of the dishes are strikingly simple – fish, meat and vegetables are chargrilled, pan-fried and baked – but all of them, from the Tuscan bread soup Ribollita to main dishes such as Manzo in Tegame( Braised Beef Fillet) and Maiale al Latte(Pork Cooked in Milk) are vibrant with flavour, In addition, there are numerous recipes for Italian-inspired desserts, such as Zabaglione Ice Cream, Almond and Lemon Cake, and Grilled Peaches with Amaretto.

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